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General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« Last post by Joseph on August 24, 2025, 10:56:24 pm »

Ron, how many miles do you have on your rig? Reason I ask is I don’t think just owning a rig for a long time has anything to do with it.  I’m at 90,000 miles of rough riding roads. My first unit went out was on recall, this one of course is not. The beating everything takes bouncing down the highways I’m guess is the main culprit. Well that and everything being made to crap out so you’ll spend on new.

Cal…Since my original post I have been doing some research on JC refrigeration and converting mine to 12 volt or 110.  I’d like to go with straight 12 and avoid the inverter. The concern is the current wiring isn’t going to be heavy enough.  With the fridge in the slide running a heavier wire isn’t easy with the slack when the slide is in.   

Jim, I’ve noticed JC offers a single and dual compressor kit.  We’re on the road so once I get home I’ll give them a call with a load of questions and go from there. Really wondering how much more power is required with a dual compressor kit?   All the reviews ive been able to find the owners were happy with the single compressor. ??


Don, with this being the second time I’ve had the ammonia leak I think I’m done with that route.  I can buy the ammonia Amish kit for around $900. Pretty much the same as changing to 12 or 110.  The work I’ll do myself.  I’m retired so time isn’t an issue. 

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General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« Last post by CalCruiser on August 24, 2025, 05:59:01 pm »

I saw this thread  about a kit to convert a absorption refrigerator to a 12v compressor type. Looks like a DIY project if inclined.
JC refrigeration also sells  the “Amish” rebuild  kit for absorption refrigerators.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/norcold-conversion-to-12v-compressor-system-678614.html


https://jc-refrigeration.com/

Removing the unit from a PC requires taking apart the entry door frame. It may be easier to just rebuild the old one inside using a drop cloth?  If you need tips or pictures for how to remove it look up Volkemon on the PC Facebook  group

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General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« Last post by donc13 on August 24, 2025, 09:34:02 am »

Joseph,

My 2015 just went through the ammonia leak on my way home from Canada a week and a half ago.  I have a mobile tech ordering me a new cooling unit and he's expected to get it installed 1st week of Sept.

Yup, $2k expected cost.

I considered a new unit but we still boondocks alot and I wasn't happy with the current draw needed.  I didn't want to run the generator to provide enough power.

But if it goes again, I will see what the latest and greatest thing is then.

Don

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General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« Last post by Ron Dittmer on August 24, 2025, 08:10:11 am »

I wonder if the RV fridge industry goes through EPA changes like regular refridgerators, implementing environmentally safer refridgerants that seem to reduce efficiencies.  Our ever common 120v/propane Norcold is a 2007 model year, still going strong.  I dread the thought of replacing it.

In the months and years that followed after we bought our PC in 2007, there was a rash of Norcold doors breaking at the hinge, an issue across the RV industry.  Being proactive, I installed hinge reinforcement hardware..... so far, so good.  That problem seems to have gone silent on RV forums for quite some time now.

45

General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« Last post by jim.godfrey on August 23, 2025, 03:19:13 pm »

Hi Joseph:
My 2020 2552 came with a Norcold DE0061L.
It is a 12 volt compressor fridge that fit into the standard opening.
It needs about 6.5 amps max 12 volts to run. I assume there is a 12volt line at your refer to run its electronics that should handle it.
The DE0061L is now discontinued but this article describes a pop in substitute for it:

https://rvfridgeguys.com/norcold-technical-blog/norcold-has-discontinued-the-de0061-here-are-your-options/

If my fridge ever dies, I plan to look into a Nova Cool RFU9200. It has separate compressors for the fridge and freezer.
The size "looks" to be compatible but have not confirmed it as a drop in.
It is more expensive than the Norcolds but I believe the dual compressors and Nova Cool quality would be worth  it.
Good luck with whatever you decide!
 

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General Discussion / Alternative Fridge?

« Last post by Joseph on August 19, 2025, 12:01:12 am »

On our 2011 - 2552 the fridge is stinking of Ammonia once again and although I can’t find the leak I’m sure it’s toast once again.   Other than throwing a few grand to fix it are there any known alternatives that can slide into that same spot?

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General Discussion / Re: Tri-fold sofa

« Last post by Ron Dittmer on August 12, 2025, 09:26:04 am »

FYI the black wires are 12v for the slide motor, not ground.

Yes indeed CalCruiser.  I am glad you brought this up.
There are a few odd exceptions where 12V black is not ground, the macerator in our 2007 production PC being another example.  It's wierd.

But the general rules is as follows.

With a Brick & Mortar house, the 120V color code, WHITE IS GROUND
With motorhome 120V wiring,  the color code is the same, WHITE IS GROUND
All vehicle 12v wiring including motorhomes, the color code, BLACK IS GROUND

Don't confuse black 12V ground from white 120V ground in your PC.  It is easy to mix them up because both are present in motorhomes.

48

General Discussion / Re: Tri-fold sofa

« Last post by Funseekers on August 11, 2025, 03:52:33 pm »

Thanks so much for the info…Ours is working fine for now but as we are worse case scenario folks we thought we would have a spare just in case as Keith said there is no way to retract bed manually.  Sure appreciate your thoughts on this matter. Keith gave us part number so we ordered on eBay.  FIY, part number is RV #801-001 / 420617 Atwood mobile CIM. $59.00 with tax and shipping.

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General Discussion / Re: Tri-fold sofa

« Last post by CalCruiser on August 11, 2025, 01:39:11 pm »

If the sofa motor doesn’t turn on check the 20A self resetting circuit breaker. Both sides (green wires) should measure 12v to ground.

Look for a string of 4 or 5 self resetting circuit breakers. In this picture the one on the left is for the tri-fold sofa motor. The green wire on the left side is 12v out. The other green wire is 12v in from the batteries. Voltage from the truck battery  is always present even with the ignition key off. FYI the black wires are 12v for the slide motor, not ground.

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General Discussion / Tri-fold sofa

« Last post by Funseekers on August 11, 2025, 10:18:04 am »

Hello!
Have tried contacting Paul’s seating for a motor replacement for our 2100 with no success.  No one ever returns calls.  Doug is trying to hunt one up at the factory but with the move it may take some time.  Anyone have any ideas?