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41

General Discussion / Re: Sewer hose storage

« Last post by Camperfan on October 10, 2026, 01:01:34 pm »

Thanks All!
I’m
Going to give this whole valve system a closer look today

I recall there being a Valterra slide valve with the standard travel cap that is forward of the Sanicon sump box. The cap faces the  driver side (left) as you would want it to at a standard dumping station.

I also kinda recall two pull handles on the two individual grey/black tanks  under there.  These were ones that had the wiring for the Barker auto drain motors? I dont recall any locking/pull pins but will double check.

I have purchased a spare genuine Thetford Sanicon hose, for the instance that the (already replaced since new) current o e springs a leak. I don’t have a 4”? Gravity drain hose and attachments though. I prefer the standard gravity drain since there a fewer moving parts to fail.

I assume that the aforementioned, left facing Valterra slide valve with Travel cap is the gravity dump connection. Underneath the cap it appears as clean as new, like it has never been used. Nevertheless I will lay under there again and stare at the plumbing again to see if I can get a better understanding, in the event the electric Sanicon pump fails.

Thanks again

42

General Discussion / Re: 12 Volt fridge replacement

« Last post by Sarz272000 on October 09, 2026, 10:13:33 pm »

Hi all! Just spoke to the Mothership regarding ordering a new PC with a 12 volt fridge installed.  Keith is a straight shooter when asked anything PC related and said while they will install a 12 Volt of our choosing, there are known issues regarding low battery voltage causing failures in these units.
We love our absorption Norcold but not practical for the type of specialty food we eat in that we live in the Central Valley of California.  The absorption fridge will cool to around 40 degrees from outside ambient temperatures and we love hot weather!  ( well, we love to boondock in summer so we have no choice😂). Since it’s usually mid to high nineties obviously we have a problem keeping our food sufficiently safe.
What think you fine folks about the 12 volt option?

I had two gas refrigerators in a TT and a PC.  Both failed.  I do not like those refrigerators.  Keeping them level, proper outside rear cooling, uneven internal cooling are my dislikes.  I cannot buy another RV with a gas refrigerator.  I have been looking at fiberglass TT’s.  Most of them and most TT’s now have 12 volt compressor refrigerators standard.  Gas ones are becoming obsolete.  Keith is right about low voltage battery.  However, I believe if one gets a 12 volt refrigerator one must have lithium batteries, 200 amp/hour minimum along with 400 watts of solar to charge them.  This arrangement allows better range of use for the batteries supporting the refrigerator.  I believe PC still installs non-lithium batteries in their units.  They will run down quickly powering a 12 volt refrigerator.  Thus Keith’s comment.  Unfortunately, adding lithium batteries also requires upgrading; solar, charger, protection and wiring upgrades.  A DC-DC charger should also be considered.  If one considers a 12 volt refrigerator I recommend going to an established service company specializing in lithium conversions to get evaluation of your system and what upgrades would be required. 

43

General Discussion / Re: 12 Volt fridge replacement

« Last post by LRUCH on October 09, 2026, 01:04:36 pm »

Here's a thought on how to avoid opening the fridge for often and warming it.   As an engineer I would say you need to find a parallel plane for your leveling.  This is where my mom would say, "in English Larry!"  As a fellow RV'er I'll walk thru the concept step by step.


Sometime when you are not camping and the fridge is warm, park it where you can extend the slide(s). Some might debate that loading the fridge with some weight would be beneficial just in case there is any flex in the slide under load. Open the fridge and do your normal leveling as you described.


Once you have the fridge "level" to your satisfaction take the level out and place it on various solid surfaces in the coach (not cab). Kitchen countertop, bathroom countertop, the floor, even the bottom of the entry door frame come to mind. They need to be a surface that is fixed static, not flexing or moving in any way.. Not a drawer, lift up countertop extension, recliner table, or engine doghouse (I excluded the entire Ford cab because it can flex independent of the coach).  One or more of the spots should be very close to the fridge.


If your parking area is slightly inclined, all the better.   Repeat the entire process parked in the opposite direction, or 90 degrees off if possible. That would give a chance to observe if any ground slant affects the slide's angle of measured "Level-Ness" compared to the other surfaces.


Once you find that matching spot, you can from now on level the coach using it. And if you want to verify your final position after leveling using that spot, check the fridge ONCE at the end. It should (still) match.


BTW, I do this.  They're is a small triangle table behind the passenger seat on my 2900. It's 'Level-Ness" is identical to my fridge, and I can see a bubble level on it from the driver's seat if I tip/unrecline the passenger seat forward.


Hope that makes sense. Feel free to ask questions.


Larry

44

General Discussion / Re: 12 Volt fridge replacement

« Last post by wideglide on October 09, 2026, 12:33:43 pm »

Funseekers...

I installed the Beechlane leveling system. Its an electronic level sensing device that has a phone app. When you install it you calibrate it by perfectly leveling your rig with the slide out, then run the slide in and set the beechlane "zero" to that position. Then when you get to your camp site you can turn on the system while you are parking to pick the most level spot. I then can reference the numbers it displays to show me where the low points are and set up leveling blocks to drive onto that get it really close. I then use manual stabilizer jacks wherever i need to get the beechlane to read as close to zero as i can. I can usually get it to between 0 and .25 inches easily. If i had 3 jacks i can make it perfect everytime but i only have 2 currently. You do have to go back and forth between the jacks to make it perfect. Once you are set you can then run the slide out and and check with a level if you like but it will be pretty much perfect . It is of course up to the individual to decide how perfect you wish to be. Its much easier than using just a level and repeated trips in and out for every adjustment you need to make. I like just having my phone with me to see the live results as i crank a jack. The stabilizer jacks im using are the bigfoot 5000 pound ones and to be honest you really dont have to do that part as just the blocks can get you close enough to be withing tolerance per the fridge manufacture. Im just one of those people who prefers to be as perfect as possible. The last camping trip i did the pad was level enough to put me at 1/4 inch out on 1 side with no leveling blocks so i didnt do any extra leveling at all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrH-O4Kwh4Q

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General Discussion / Re: 12 Volt fridge replacement

« Last post by Funseekers on October 09, 2026, 12:04:15 pm »

My fridge 2 cents...

So to be fair this is my 1st RV with an absorption fridge so i have no real reference other than what ive researched on youtube. Also im at least the 3rd owner so i have no idea of what the original owner added/deleted/improved upon until i discover it for myself. All that being said im quite surprised with the fridge performance. Before camping the first time i tried various settings on the fridge checking with thermometers to gauge what settings i need to run it at. Ive settled on 5 or 6 depending on the load as setting it any higher it will freeze stuff in the lower part. Even in the extreme heat we have been having in Tennessee the past month with 100 degree days for most of September i maintain 30 degrees in the freezer and about 40-42 in the refer section. I wasnt expecting those numbers in the heat but i did keep the inside AC temp on 68 the whole time we were camping over labor day weekend. I also keep it to within 1/4 inch of level in all directions as i understood thats optimal for good fridge performance. I havent even opened up the service door to clean it reall good yet but its on my to do list.

Regarding keeping the unit at 1/4 “ level, what method do use for leveling as I’ve always been instructed to level from the refrigerator with the slide out. We use a bubble level and place it in the floor of the freezer. The problem we have is that by the time we determine true level the fridge has lost considerable temperature! There must be a better way, right?

46

General Discussion / Hidden fuse

« Last post by wideglide on October 09, 2026, 09:42:26 am »

As im winding down fixing all the things that were wrong with the PC from my purchase i have finally addressed the 1 light fixture over the bed. Its symptoms were the small dome light worked but the long main bulbs wouldn't so i knew i had my 12v power at least to the fixture. You have to remove the fixture to gain access to the back and on both ends there is a small access panel snapped into the fixture. The end opposite the switch contains the circuit board and the end with the switch contains an inline twist lock fuse holder. Mine had a blown 2 amp fuse in it. Replaced the fuse and now works fine. Just wanted to share if it helps anyone else. All my fixtures are now converted to LED.

This is specific to the older double fluorescent fixtures with the smaller nite light that are approximately 14 inches long.

47

General Discussion / Re: 2019 2552 One Foot Extended and Liquid Springs For Sale

« Last post by wideglide on October 08, 2026, 03:16:02 pm »

Hopefully i'll get to see it at a campground someday since im close by. Congrats on your quick sale.

48

General Discussion / Re: Skid rollers

« Last post by Taildragger on October 08, 2026, 01:11:08 pm »

My first Phoenix Cruiser, a PC2100, taught me lots of things.  The bone rattling sound of the frame dragging while traversing slight inclines quickly became indelibly etched in my frontal cortex.  Hence, my handle "TAILDRAGGER'

I'm old.  I'm very careful.  I'm still capable of anticipating hazards by looking ahead and avoiding road hazards.  But, it seems impossible to navigate without digging into terra firma. 

I installed a version of the rear training wheels that include roller bearings to align the wheel with the hazard.   Plus, they protrude into the threat a little more than the flat mounted alternative

49

General Discussion / Re: Smart tv upgrade

« Last post by Taildragger on October 08, 2026, 12:45:57 pm »

I seem to remember our 2003 PC 2100 having the speakers everywhere.  Including a sub woofer stashed in the bench seating compartment.  The system distributed TV/DVD audio as well as radio  I don't know if it was factory installed. 

That Cruiser was equipped with options that were superfluous to our desire.  Including faux leather upholstery. A feature that lacked durability

We miss the rear speakers

50

General Discussion / Re: Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF Level

« Last post by Taildragger on October 08, 2026, 12:33:10 pm »

What began as a question about possible solutions to process a Check Engine Light alarm and the relationship ATF levels possibly have on sensors measuring fluid levels quickly evolved into the esoterica of the Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor.  Code reader test results revealed a difference between the pedal / throttle sensors.was detected and the sole reason for Check Engine light

I learned the best solution was to simply reset the switch.   Exploring that possibility, I found the install /replace process includes "Hard resetting" the newly installed part with what is called "Training"

The five step process:

Turn the engine off and remove the key
Disconnect the negative battery cable
Wait 10 to 15 minutes to clear the computer's memory
Reconnect the negative battery terminal
Turn the key on (engine off) for 30 Seconds. Then start the engine and let it idle for 10 minutes with the accessories off to complete the idle relearn.


Since I store the vehicle in a distant location for prolonged periods by disconnecting all the batteries, unwittingly I probably caused the problem.  Reconnecting the battery and not abiding by a prescribed learning process could generate some complication.