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21
General Discussion / Re: Converter
« Last post by 2 Frazzled on November 28, 2021, 05:01:31 am »
Mike, we do have the separate inverter+ converter on our 2013 2552. They are under the passenger side twin bed. On a previous factory visit we had Doug cut and hinge the bed board so we have easy access to the components below. It doesn't have lifters as there is no framing to support them but one of us holds it up while the other roots around in there. That output cabling is what Doug tested for us in Spearfish and said it's good.

We may wind up swapping out the converter at some point. We plan to add solar and lithium and were holding out to get it all done at once to make sure everything works as efficiently as possible BUT we may have to bite the bullet and buy a converter now... Or keep plugging in our smart charger as part of our site set up.

22
General Discussion / Re: Overhead AC on when set on Furnace
« Last post by keelhauler on November 27, 2021, 09:14:35 pm »
This is asked a lot, PUT YOUR FAN ON AUTO
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General Discussion / Overhead AC on when set on Furnace
« Last post by Phil Grennan on November 27, 2021, 07:41:26 pm »
Anyone have any idea why the overhead unit would come on at all when the front thermostat is set on Furnace?  Makes no sense to me. 
24
General Discussion / RV accessory sales
« Last post by fandj on November 27, 2021, 12:43:42 pm »
No financial interest in the video or any of the vendors/manufacturers.  I just saw this video that had some Black Friday Deals on RV accessories that if you have been thinking about purchasing any of these items now may be a good time to pull the trigger.


I have been thinking about the combination RV door lock so I plan to research this to see if it makes sense. Anyone purchased this brand and any comments would be welcomed.


https://youtu.be/6SqK2Yj2fzs
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General Discussion / Re: Atwood water heater
« Last post by Jerry brown on November 27, 2021, 12:16:19 pm »
Thanks all for the feedback. I was think about using my shop vac to get all the water left below the drain plug but the turkey Baster is a good idea. Kinda think I am just going to stick with gas for now. Itís faster and we are not in the camper for long extended periods. I am not sure even if I fabricate access - it would still be somewhat offset and I am not certain I would even have room to pull the element.
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General Discussion / Re: Ford 6.8 V10 Chirping Away (2017)
« Last post by Engineerlt on November 27, 2021, 11:59:14 am »
Hello
I have a chirp in my V10 as well. I figured it was the alternator, I keep an eye on everything and haven't had any issues. It would be interesting to know if you add the tensioner and the chirp goes away.
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General Discussion / Re: Converter
« Last post by Jerry brown on November 27, 2021, 11:37:52 am »
Lance - thanks for the offer, but if I am gonna swap I think I will upgrade. I will look at the WFCO unit as well as Progressive. I like the idea of future battery comparability. Best JB
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General Discussion / Re: Converter
« Last post by mikeh on November 27, 2021, 11:18:50 am »
We've had the same problem for months. Doug checked out the converter at the Travel Club Reunion and said everything was working... At least the converter and other components are. The battery still doesn't get a charge from shore power or genny. John has been hooking up our plug-in charger every time we're in camp with electricity. We have to run the truck to recharge when dry camping  (or rainy conditions - we bring the charger inside).

The Onan shop did a quick test directly at the batteries using a voltage meter. Truck running-power in. Generator running-no power. John checked the fuses in the battery compartment and said they looked good but maybe we'll swap them just for good measure. Where is the diode type thing and do you test it the same way?
Holly,
It's not likely that the two large fuses in your house battery area are at fault.  They primarily protect the output of the house batteries that go to your inverter and house 12-volt circuits.  They are in parallel, so if either fuse is good, the converter charge current (which is much lower than the current rating of each fuse), can flow through the good fuse to charge your house batteries.  If both fuses are bad, your inverter wouldn't power on, your generator wouldn't start, and you would have no 12-volt power at all to your house 12-volt circuits.
I am not aware of a "diode-type thing" in this area.  I believe the other "electrical item" that Ron was referring to in his post may be the item mounted to the back wall on the left side of his photo, opposite the fuses.  That item is a self-resetting circuit breaker that protects the circuit going to the generator starter.  Mine is a 120-amp unit.  That is not in the converter charge circuit at all so can't affect it; if that circuit breaker is faulty, your generator won't start.

I haven't had occasion to try to trace wiring in my unit, but I imagine that the converter output that charges your house batteries is a wire that connects to the battery cable--likely at the inverter if you have separate converter and inverter units in your model.  In the earlier models, like Ron's, that have a combined converter/inverter, the connection is probably internal in the unit.  I suspect that you are going to have to access the wiring hook-up area behind your converter and inverter units to do some testing there to see just where the circuit is being interrupted.
Mike
29
General Discussion / Ford 6.8 V10 Chirping Away (2017)
« Last post by sailors35 on November 27, 2021, 10:44:56 am »
This past summer while chasing sprint cars all over the Midwest and East I began to hear what can be described as a chirping sound on startup and acceleration.  Went to a Ford dealership in Indiana where the diagnosis was belt tensioner.  Unit had 32,000 miles at this time.  Replaced tensioner and belt, $389 later on my way.  About 3000 miles later back comes the chirp.  So we are on the road, but eventually get back to Indiana and return to dealership.  Their diagnosis: "can't really be specific, but seems there is a lot of dust around the belt area".  They suggest cleaning the area: tensioner, pulleys,etc for $500.  My answer in short was  see ya and drove home to Florida.

So after some research on various RV and Ford sites it seems this is a chronic issue.  Further investigation finds that their are 2 different serpentine belt schematics.  Mine has only 1 idler pulley on the passenger side of engine.  Another schematic shows a second idler pulley on the driver's side on the longest unsupported part of the belt.  There is a boss in the block where this pulley would have been.  On many of the forums others have reinstalled this second idler pulley and said it solved the issue.  It is not an expensive part, install seems pretty straight forward.

Just wondering if others have any experience with this issue and/or advice.  Thanks
30
General Discussion / Re: Converter
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on November 27, 2021, 09:14:32 am »
Speaking of charging.

Our 2007 has the original PC installed 2000 watt Tripp-Lite converter/inverter combo unit which works with lead acid and AGM batteries, but does NOT handle lithium.  It offers 20amps of charging.


We boondock most often which can be 9-10 days at a time between long drives for battery recharging.  My drives are measured in feet to the dump station, surly useless for battery maintenance.  So we rely exclusively on the generator for battery charging.  But.........

To utilize the generator run times better, I use an external smart charger that can be set as high as 40amps.  It's no big deal to pull out the charger, hook it up as shown, and monitor the progress.  This picture was taken in 2009 when we had 12V lead acid batteries.  Today we have 6V AGM and no battery tray which is easier yet to setup.  I installed the AGMs in the spring of 2015 and they still performed extremely well during our month long trip out west last September.

If your on-board charger is not working, consider what I practice all the time.  Selecting the right charger will reduce generator run times.
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