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Polls / Re: The RV Good Fairy
« Last post by Greg B on Today at 04:42:07 pm »
1. Power stroke engine
2. Medicine cab that didn't hang out over the sink so I can wash my face!
3. Steering wheel mounted volume control for the radio
2
I was going to post a wiring diagram that Randy Hyde had posted here about a year ago, but I see that CalCruiser beat me to it.  That diagram was for his 2008 2350, so should be fairly close to your original layout.  There have been some minor changes in Phoenix Cruiser wiring over the years, and different components used, but the battery isolation solenoid you refer to has been pretty consistent. As you probably know, the purpose of that solenoid is to connect the the house batteries to the Ford engine battery (when the solenoid is energized) to allow the alternator feed to also charge the house batteries.  The solenoid is energized when the key switch is turned to "ON"; the rest of the time it is de-energized, isolating the engine and house batteries from each other.

Wiring, as I said, can vary slightly--but basically the wire on one of the big solenoid posts connects to the (Ford) chassis battery as you noted, and the other big post feeds a 40-amp self-resetting circuit breaker (the thing you call a fuse) and from there that wire runs to the house batteries.  The two small posts energize the solenoid.  One goes to ground, the single black wire that you noted.  The other post has at least two wires--one is a feed from the "ON" circuit of the key switch which energizes the solenoid when you turn the switch on.  That wire doesn't normally come from the key switch itself--I believe on my 2019 rig it comes from a terminal in the under hood Ford fuse block that is energized with key-on.  The second wire, as you guessed, feeds from the "white switch".  Depressing the "white switch" allows you to directly energize the solenoid (if your Ford battery is dead) to connect the chassis battery with the house batteries to slowly back-feed some charge into the Ford battery from hot house batteries.  The "white switch" gets it's feed from the house batteries--frequently by tying onto that 40-amp breaker under the hood (that second wire on the other side of that breaker you mentioned is likely your feed to the "white switch").  You also mentioned in your application a third wire on that small hot solenoid terminal--I'm not sure what that is; most likely it is picking up a key-on 12-volt feed for something, since that post gets hot when the key goes on.

I have not done a lithium upgrade on my unit yet, but in reading posts here from those that have the usual process when installing a DC to DC charger seems to be to simply disconnect the solenoid system.  The main wires could be simply removed and taped (insulated)--that would effectively eliminate that system.  You would lose your ability to back-feed charge to your chassis battery by use of the "white switch", but there would be no other problem.  If you leave the solenoid and small wires attached--even that third wire feed would still be active for whatever it does.

Best of luck,      Mike
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I am upgrading my RV which is a 2009 2551 to 2 100ah Lithium batteries connected in parallel.  I have a Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 inverter/charger that can charge lithium and I have a Go Power solar PWM controller with a 170watt panel that will also work with Lithium. Currently when I am running my engine, my inverter/charger will show that the alternator is charging the house batteries.
I have ordered a Victron DC-to-DC 12/12/-30amp charger for the conversion as I had heard about concerns regarding the alternator charging lithium batteries especially if the battery charge level is extremely low.  In any case I bought the charger.  My question is when I install the charger, how do I handle the current charging system so that it is only charging through the new DC To DC charger setup when the engine is running?  I heard about the solenoid in the engine compartment under the coolant overflow container and have taken photos.  The problem is, I do not know where the wires are going except for one that goes to the chassis battery.  The other wires I have now idea where they go and what one or ones I need to disconnect if any after I install the new system.  Like I mentioned I know that one of the two larger gauge red wires go to the chassis battery and the other looks like it is connecting to a fuse and two other wires on the fuse.  There are then two smaller posts at the base.  One of the smaller posts has a black wire that I think may go to ground and on the other post are three wires.  Two red wires and one that looks like a black wire.  I have no idea where they go or their use.  Maybe one red wire that looks like it goes through the firewall is for the white switch under the dash on the driverís side used in case you need to jump your chassis battery using your house battery?  The other red wire and Black wire I have no clue.
I am hoping someone can explain how that solenoid works along with how it is wired up (a diagram would be great), and when I have installed the DC-to-DC charger, what do I need to do if anything with regards to the solenoid?
I am concerned about both systems trying to charge the batteries.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I have never posted before, so I hope this goes through okay.

Thanks for any help,
Proud Phoenix Cruiser owner of a 2009 2551
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2022 Phoenix Cruised Model 2552 for sale: $140,000.00
This unit has just under 20K miles. It is in very good condition with no damage. It has numerous options. We love this unit but we are thinking about up sizing to a model 3100.
We have repaired or replaced all the new unit bugs, including: a faulty GFCI outlet - which we upgraded, the defective ABCO water inlet valve, the failed tank monitor panel, and we adjusted/aligned the main coach side door lock, and one of the exterior cabinet door locks. We added; a coach batteries pad heater, exterior AC/HP covers (2), cab windows exterior sun shield/privacy cover , cab mirror covers, added locks for the pantry drawers, and added a second AC EMS/SP panel in the outside sani-con bay to precheck the shore power.  We keep a coat of good quality wax on the paint, and all regular scheduled service has been completed on the Ford engine, transmission, chassis, and the Cummins generator.
Options:
MoRyde suspension
Safe T Plus anti sway bar
15K btu AC/HP (additional 2nd unit)
30 or 50 amp service (50 amp for 2nd 15K AC/HP)
Rooftop Satellite Dome Dish for Dish Network
Solar panels 150 watt (2) with charger and monitor
Trogan AGM Batteries
Truma AquaGo instant water heater
Cab seats 6 way power, heat, swivel
Auxillary rear view monitor for driver
Bedroom TV with DVD and swivel mount
Cab windows tinted

email us regarding any questions or offers:  donfopgv@gmail.com
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General Discussion / Re: New Ford E450 Chassis with Garmin RV Vieo 1051 Radio
« Last post by tom cunningham on December 02, 2023, 08:13:43 pm »
Thanks.  I called PC and it seems the 2021 is something of a covid parts orphan...
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General Discussion / Re: New Ford E450 Chassis with Garmin RV Vieo 1051 Radio
« Last post by WillLloyd on December 01, 2023, 04:25:38 pm »
We have a 2022 chassis that works just fine with the Garmin and the steering wheel controls. Iím not sure if thereís an interface module but I know there is a setting deep inside the Vieo to configure it to work with the Ford steering wheel. FYI.
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General Discussion / Re: New Ford E450 Chassis with Garmin RV Vieo 1051 Radio
« Last post by tom cunningham on December 01, 2023, 12:21:09 pm »
Hi Just checking in for a possible update for 2021 radio steering wheel control.  Was there an original factory unit from ford that did function with steering wheel volume before being upgraded to the pioneer unit?  Thanks,  Tom.
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Polls / Re: The RV Good Fairy
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on November 30, 2023, 11:11:11 pm »
I worked hard to get close to "nice riding" and am fairly satisfied with that wish.  Then there is the imaginary world of "50 mpg", "insta-clean" and "inside is bigger than outside".  But two real wishes comes to mind.

Priority #1) A very quiet running Onan 4000 watt gasoline generator that is not sensitive to long term storage.
Priority #2) A very quiet running air conditioner.  I don't need it ducted, just run quiet, but maybe ducted A/C is the answer to the noise.

ABOUT THE CAB NOISE WISH OF OTHER MEMBERS HERE.
We managed to significantly lower cab noise by lowering our cruising speed to 62-63 mph.  Engine noise is so bad, especially when it is racing from the transmission downshifting 3x at over-passes.  It is actually 2x plus the torque converter, but it feels like 3x.  Reducing our crusing speed seems to prevent such wild transmission shifting.

One more thing we noticed by limiting our cruising speed to 62-63 mph along with the 5-Star tune.  Our fuel economy improved by 1 mpg.  I imagine our lower cruising speed was the primary influence, but maybe the 5-Star contributes something too.
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Polls / Re: The RV Good Fairy
« Last post by LRUCH on November 29, 2023, 08:41:25 pm »
1. Ducted AC
2. Take ten years off the age of my PC
3. Conversion from gasoline to electric drive


Just 3 small wishes, right?
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