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General Discussion / Re: Replacement of the windshield washer reservoir

« Last post by CalCruiser on March 23, 2025, 02:50:25 am »

I removed mine because it appeared to be leaking down thru the ps wheel well when the washer pump was activated. IIRC that required removing the battery, and a socket wrench and box end wrench to remove one bolt and one nut on top of the fender well. But getting it out was a real pita.

The leak actually  turned out to be a disintegrating plastic Y fitting in the windshield washer hoses. To get to that just remove the windshield wiper arms and black plastic cowling between the hood and windshield. You can buy  a generic Y fitting  at  any auto parts store.  Check that first before you go thru all  the trouble of removing the washer fluid tank and pump assembly. Anyone can take it apart in 15 minutes or less with just a phillips screwdriver.

Tony C is The Man 

https://youtu.be/TwpAnALEDHM?si

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General Discussion / Re: Replacement of the windshield washer reservoir

« Last post by Ron Dittmer on March 22, 2025, 05:21:02 pm »

The windshield washer reservoir is chassis-related, not RV-related.  Any normal auto repair facility should be able to handle the project.  Just call in advance, letting them know over the phone that you have a motorhome, not a van.  This would likely require that the repair needs to be done outside.  They should be able to quote a price without even seeing the motorhome.

Doing a quick search, it appears access to the reservoir is done by removing the tire, then fender liner.  If that is true, it should not be a challenge for a mechanic or DIY'er.

If you had water in the reservoir that froze, that may have cracked the reservoir, but if not, then you have a chance the leak can be repaired.  Maybe the pump itself is leaking, or a gasket or hose.  Given that you live near Orlando, FL (per your ID) freezing is an unlikely scenario, hence something else is likely leaking, not the reservoir itself.

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General Discussion / Replacement of the windshield washer reservoir

« Last post by BruceClerico on March 22, 2025, 02:25:11 pm »

I've developed a leak in the windshield washer reservoir.  Has anyone tried replacing it?  Is this a DIY job, or should I take it to an RV repair shop?

Bruce Clerico
Orlando

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General Discussion / Re: Removing the protective shield coating on our PC

« Last post by BruceClerico on March 22, 2025, 02:21:38 pm »

Thanks, Sharon.  Yes, please let me know how the removal process goes & approximate cost.  Most of mine was removed by the dealer when we  purchased it 3-4 years ago.  The only parts that were not removed are the front left & right "wings" & the two mirrors, since at the time, they were not showing any signs of disfiguring. So, hopefully, this will limit the cost.  I'm having it looked at by a friend of mine who does paint & body work to see what he thinks.

Bruce

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Phoenix Cruisers for Sale by Owner / Re: 2016 Phoenix Cruiser 2351 w/ Dinette- 17,932 miles - $72,000

« Last post by Allen Begley on March 20, 2025, 01:03:19 pm »

⁃ Sale Price $72,000.00 (Mileage 17,932)
Description:
- Ford E-450 Super Duty chassis, 6.8 liter engine (“Triton V10”).
-Desert sand interior, cherry cabinets, toast exterior with full-body paint
- Like new condition and always stored in heated garage 
 Premium convenience package:
(Onan generator, roof air with heat strip, class 3 hitch, convection microwave, 32" LED TV over cab, gas/110V, DSI water heater, outside shower, TV antenna and booster, fantastic vent, carbon fiber dash, electric step, heated remote mirrors).   
- Keyless remote entry
- Bed size = 79” X 49” with corner angle cutout of 39” X 7” mattress thickness is 7”
- Slide out with leather dinette that makes small bed
- 14' electric awning 
- Surround sound with DVD player 
- In-dash back up camera with cell phone connectivity
- Side cameras
- Mobile eye collision avoidance system and Safe-T plus steering 
- Power driver's seat and swivel passenger seat
- Leather captain's chair with seat belt behind passenger seat
- Insulated glass
- HWH leveling jacks series 725
- 150 watt solar panel
- XM 1000 inverter
- Quick connect for gas grill 
- Taller skylight over shower 
- Maxx air cover for fantastic fan
- 19" Bedroom TV and DVD player
- LED lighting 
- Smoke, carbon monoxide and LP gas detectors
- Magna shades for cab windshield and windows 
- Soft closing privacy and blackout roller shades
- Bilstein comfort RV shocks
- Roadmaster front and rear sway bars
- 3 M Diamond Shield protective films around locks and other scratch-prone areas
Other specifics:
⁃ LENGTH 24' 11'
⁃ WIDTH 93"
⁃ HEIGHT 9' 11” (fits in a 10’ overhead door opening)
⁃ FUEL GAS 55 GALLONS
⁃ FRESH WATER TANK 38 GALLONS
⁃ BLACK WATER TANK 33 GALLONS
⁃ GRAY WATER TANK 23 GALLONS
⁃ LP GAS 42 POUNDS
⁃ GVWR 14,500 POUNDS
⁃ GCWR 22,000 POUNDS

Please contact either by phone or email for more information....

allenbegley5@gmail.com
(937) 499-3078

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General Discussion / Re: Removing the protective shield coating on our PC

« Last post by SharonL on March 17, 2025, 06:41:05 pm »

Bruce
I see you are in Orlando.  I live in Inverness and have been looking for someone to remove our Diamond Shield as this is not something that we want to tackle ourselves.  I have spoken to Florida Applied Films and they will do it for what I believe is a reasonable price.  We will be making an appointment soon to have it done and he said that they can do it in a half day but sometimes it can take a full day.  He also said it was okay if we wanted to leave it overnight.  They have very good reviews and the owner was great in speaking to him on the phone.  Their website says that they are located in Dover, Fl.  but he told me that they are currently located in North Lakeland. In case you want to call the number is 863-698-9696. Hope this helps.  I’ll report back once we have it done.

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General Discussion / Re: Godzilla Engine?

« Last post by Ron Dittmer on March 16, 2025, 06:06:27 pm »

For reference, our 2007 E350 PC-2350 with 6.8L-V10 engine, easily gets 11 mpg on the open road (not towing) as long as we limit our cruising speed to 62-63 mph, and we don't have a significant head wind.  Increasing our speed an additional 5 mph and we loose 1/2 mpg or worse.

I recently invested in the 5 STAR TUNE which seems to increase our fuel economy an extra 1/2 mpg over what I just stated above.  I invested in the 5 Star Tune primarily for improved behavior when using cruise control of which it seemed to do the trick, but I have yet to go on a cross country trip to verify my satisfaction while towing our Jeep Liberty.

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General Discussion / Re: Godzilla Engine?

« Last post by JRTxpress on March 16, 2025, 04:45:26 pm »

I've settled on mid-grade Top Tier gas.  My ScanGauge indicates 9 MPG on a one hour + drive.   The 7.3 RIPS compared to our previous 2013 Ford/Winnebago with the V-10.   I was cruising on the local Interstates at 65 mph+ and passing cars as needed.   I also changed out the Autolite plugs for NGK Ruthenium.... maybe a tiny bit smoother idle.

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General Discussion / Re: Toad Question - 2552 Pulling a Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon

« Last post by mikeh on March 16, 2025, 11:07:23 am »

2019 2552 towing a 2019 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.  I'm unsure of the exact Jeep weight, but I usually have a few items loaded which I'm sure puts it into your range (4500-5000).
I've been well satisfied with handling and stopping over the last five years.  Traveled everything from interstate to primitive back roads, with no real issues.  Chose the Cherokee Trailhawk for a toad because it's tow-ready, and gave me the comfort amenities I've come to appreciate with age (automatic, heated/cooled seats and wheel, etc.) along with reasonable off-road capability.  It's been a good choice.
Tow setup is Blue Ox base plates with a Roadmaster Nighthawk tow bar and a Demco Stay-N-Play Duo braking system.  The combination has provided good performance and no problems.  Just 2-3 minutes to connect/disconnect toad to RV, throw one under-dash switch to activate the braking system.  The Stay-N-Play is a dual-signal system; RV brake signal and internal inertia sensors ensure progressive braking with no false or unneeded brake applications.  It's been effective and reliable.  Jeep battery stays charged off the system if towing for extended time-frames.  I drive pretty carefully so have had very few instances of really testing the tow setup.  The few times I've had to make extreme maneuvers or really shut things down the combination has responded and done the job.
Mike

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General Discussion / Re: Toad Question - 2552 Pulling a Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon

« Last post by Ron Dittmer on March 15, 2025, 04:37:36 pm »

Since 2009, with our 2007 PC-2350, we have been towing a 2006 Jeep Liberty 4x4 that weighs 4150 pounds on CAT scales.

We use THIS ROADMASTER FALCON 2 tow bar with THESE BRACKETS, and THIS UNIFIED TOW BRAKE SYSTEM BY US GEAR that is integrated into the Jeep but is not seen.  I wouldn't know if it's all the greatest choice.  I only know that it works well and simply so.  The Jeep helps slow down the motorhome.  The Unified system applies the same amount of braking power regardless of the demand which is naturally less than ideal, but we are used to it.  We can adjust "brake sensitivity," when the brakes get activated via a centrifugal force sensor/controller located on the center cup holder.

What I like about the system is how nicely it is integrated into the towing apparatus.  The electronics are hooked up through the same multi-wire unbilical cord as the brake lights, and the tow vehicle battery is maintained.  The only extra hookup is an emergency break-away cable that is thinner than the diameter of a bicycle brake cable.

BTW:  I like your choice of tow vehicle... Canyon/Colorado.  If you decide to buy one and tow it, I would love to hear how it does for you.  Our Jeep Liberty will be 20 years old next year.  It's not ready to be retired, but I like to keep abreast on future options of interest.