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General Discussion / Re: Replace Seats???
« Last post by Barry-Sue on July 20, 2024, 07:02:24 am »
Rick and Erika,

We tried to replace our seats before having them recovered.  The issue we ran into was that both of our seats swiveled and none of the seats they tried would still allow our seats to swivel.

So just a word of caution, if you have a seat that swivels make sure they check that it will still work.

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General Discussion / Re: Replace Seats???
« Last post by Ron Dittmer on July 20, 2024, 02:27:00 am »
I have read of other PC owners contacting Paul's Seating and ordering the same exact seat skins made of 100% real leather on every surface.  Apparently the real leather is holding up nicely throughout the years.  You also have the option of ordering cloth as well as ordering complete new seats from Paul's or any other seat manufacture which are direct bolt-in replacements.

Your problem is the byproduct of the 2009 recession.  The entire RV industry (not only Phoenix) RV seat manufacturers switched from "Made In USA" vinyl, to "Made In China" vinyl.  Our vinyl seats made in 2007 continue to hold up, still looking great.
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General Discussion / Re: Replace Seats???
« Last post by Rick John on July 19, 2024, 07:52:49 pm »
Thank you Barry & Sue!!

I've been in contact with a business in Lake Havasu, AZ [https://discountvantruck.com/] who make van and truck seats.  She said they've made many seats to replace the peeling problem, because the reupholstery is so labor intensive, it's actually more economical to simply replace the seat.  All of their seats are compatible with the Ford pedestals (which she said are made in Indiana, so even if the chassis came with a simple mount for the plastic chair, it's possible that Paul's would have used the Ford pedestal to make the original seat.)

I am coincidentally going to be traveling west on I-40 in early October, so will be passing by about 20 miles north of them... going to pursue that option.

Rick and Erika
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General Discussion / Re: Replace Seats???
« Last post by Barry-Sue on July 19, 2024, 11:29:27 am »
We took our seats out of the PC and took them to an automotive restoration shop.  Not cheap but look very nice.  We had them covered with Naugahyde instead of any leather products.  We are very pleased!
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General Discussion / Replace Seats???
« Last post by Rick John on July 18, 2024, 08:23:10 pm »
Aloha!!  We have a 2010 PC, 2551, with the horribly peeling seats.  Surprisingly, I've not located an upholstery shop with any interest in either recovering the seats, or making slip-on seat covers.  The fact that they are 3rd party seats (from Paul's) rather than Ford OEM seems to scare them off.  It would probably require them to remove the existing seat covers, and use those for patterns.  It also would tie up the motorhome for an extended time while they do this.  Every shop I talked to says NO.
And please don't suggest going back to Paul... I tried.  He wants nothing to do with them, obviously he had a major falling out with the factory, now hates the mention of Phoenix Cruiser.  Said he has nothing to do with Phoenix Cruiser anymore, and has no desire to do so.

I've seen a few posts stating the pedestals are Ford OEM, with Ford part numbers on them.  I haven't verified this myself yet.  (We live in Hawaii and the motorhome is stored in Oregon.)
Seems like if the pedestals are from Ford, I should be able to buy original Ford seats for an E450 and bolt them on.

Has anyone out there tried this?

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 2007 Phoenix Cruiser 2551, very good condition.
E450, V-10, 78,120 miles, 26.5, 1 slide
Sleeps 4, 2 twin beds, 1 electric sofa
Dry bath, 6 gal water heater gas/elec/DSI
Furnace, AC, fantastic fan,
Convection Mirowave, 2-burner stove, 6 cu.ft. fridge/freezer
4k Onan generator, 2 tvs, dvd player. All systems and appliances work.
Clearcoat is peeling in some places.
Contact Dave at dfchatfield70@gmail.com
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General Discussion / Re: Lippert Slideout "Sparking"
« Last post by mikeh on July 18, 2024, 06:46:54 pm »
With no inverter or generator operation, and not plugged in, there will be no AC voltage on the wires.  You could extend/retract the slide with no danger of arcing.  As Cal says, if you are concerned about your house batteries, running the engine provides alternator power to ensure there is adequate juice.

The only potential issue with this approach, is if running your slide in or out were to bring that "frayed wire" into permanent contact with the flange or other grounded metal instead of the temporary touching that you've experienced.  If that were to occur, when you plug in, start your generator, or run the inverter, you may then apply 120-volts AC to the wire that is already in contact with ground.--creating a steady short.  Under that circumstance, the circuit breaker on that particular AC circuit should open, preventing a bigger problem, but it would be a concern.  Based on the intermittent arcing that you have experienced ONLY when actually moving the slide, this seems very unlikely to occur--but it would definitely be something to watch for.
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General Discussion / Re: Lippert Slideout "Sparking"
« Last post by CalCruiser on July 18, 2024, 04:50:44 pm »
If you are concerned about draining the batteries you can idle the engine  to supply 12v from the alternator for the slide motors. But turn off the inverter while extending and retracting the slide to be on the safe side.
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General Discussion / Re: Lippert Slideout "Sparking"
« Last post by custerhank on July 18, 2024, 03:00:06 pm »
  I got a callback from Keith in Service at Phoenix this morning. He said they had not seen this sparking problem before. The good news is after several hours we finally found the problem. There is a metal fixed flange between the slideout on the right and the twin-bed bedroom wall on the left. Way down at the bottom underneath the metal flange is a wire bundle.with an apparently frayed wire which is contacting that flange when the slide moves. The wires actually pass under the metal flange and then go up a narrow channel between the metal flange and slide.So correct - not an actual slide issue since that is 12V. When the slide moves it seemingly creates enough vibration for the wire or wires to touch the adjacent metal flange. The tech did find some minor scorching down there.

 The bad news is this issue cannot be resolved without removing the slide due to wiring access. And both the technician and Phoenix said not to use the slide until the problem is fixed. The tech recommended a couple RV repair places in our area that might do this. If I cannot get a local repair and have to wait until Spring when we next visit our kids in Indiana and could go to the factory, am thinking we could use the slide on battery power before plugging in to shore if the batteries have enough juice. Not the best choice but would avoid the 110 volt issue. Any thoughts on that? I am not an electrician..obviously.

Thanks,

Hank
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General Discussion / Re: Lippert Slideout "Sparking"
« Last post by mikeh on July 17, 2024, 09:31:42 pm »
If it is a 120-volt AC arc, it will not be the slide wiring.  The slide system is 12-volt DC powered.  There is AC wiring running in that area of course, so evidently the slide movement is still causing metal to contact either a bare spot on a wire, or a connection.  The AC circuit will still be protected by a breaker that should open if there were sustained contact and steady arcing.  Sounds like a tight spot to access.  I've been following the forum for a long while, and don't remember anyone ever reporting a similar problem.
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