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General Discussion / Re: E-350 windshield replacement
« on: May 25, 2016, 06:43:23 pm »after market wind shield is better than the original.
Please elaborate, I would have guessed the opposite.
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Please elaborate, I would have guessed the opposite.
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General Discussion / Re: San Con Mascerator Pump
« on: April 18, 2016, 12:16:08 pm »
It is fairly simple to remove, remove the wire nuts on the 12V wires, remove the 1" discharge hose, remove the strap supporting the Sanicon, remove the 3" hose clamp securing the bayonet connection and twist the Sanicon off just as you would a sewer hose or cap.
I removed mine to fix a crack in the housing that was leaking. You may want to take yours apart and see if it is repairable, they are pretty simple to take apart and reassemble. The two paper gaskets will likely get damaged, but just use silicone gasket maker from an auto supply store in place of the gaskets.
Bob
I removed mine to fix a crack in the housing that was leaking. You may want to take yours apart and see if it is repairable, they are pretty simple to take apart and reassemble. The two paper gaskets will likely get damaged, but just use silicone gasket maker from an auto supply store in place of the gaskets.
Bob
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General Discussion / Re: I ordered a new PC but I still have one question
« on: March 24, 2016, 08:07:52 pm »What's the advantage of the ceramic toilet?
I was wondering the same thing? We have had plastic toilets for the last 25 years and they do the job - so to speak!
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Around the Campfire / Re: Anyone going to Quartszite?
« on: January 11, 2016, 10:52:55 am »
We have been going to the Quartzsite RV Show/Flea Market for the past five years and will be there again this year. It is amazing to find all those things that I didn't know I had to have! We are leaving our home in the Northern Sierra Nevada tomorrow and spending the next seven weeks in various places in Arizona.
On the lookout for other PCs, Bob
On the lookout for other PCs, Bob
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Tips and Tricks / Re: Remote Communications
« on: December 28, 2015, 11:36:40 am »
We have the DeLorme Inreach as well. We often find ourselves in remote back country in our Jeep without cell service and having a way to summon help for a medical emergency is comforting - especially as we are approaching our 70s.
There is also a less expensive unit called "Spot", they both send your GPS coordinates to a central dispatch center when you press the SOS button, but the Inreach allows for two-way communication via texting on the device confirming receipt and to describe your emergency, whereas the "Spot" is one way only and you hope they have received your SOS.
As Mike mentioned, it is also fun to send messages to family or friends from some remote location, they get an email with a link that brings up a satellite image of where you are - not real time as you are there but some earlier image.
Bob
There is also a less expensive unit called "Spot", they both send your GPS coordinates to a central dispatch center when you press the SOS button, but the Inreach allows for two-way communication via texting on the device confirming receipt and to describe your emergency, whereas the "Spot" is one way only and you hope they have received your SOS.
As Mike mentioned, it is also fun to send messages to family or friends from some remote location, they get an email with a link that brings up a satellite image of where you are - not real time as you are there but some earlier image.
Bob
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Adventure Anywhere / Re: Death Valley
« on: October 27, 2015, 12:17:12 pm »
We drove that road a couple years ago in our 2551 towing a Wrangler. We went down into Death Valley on 190 and there was no problem with the road, I don't know how it is to go uphill on that road. We left to the east on 178 to Pahrump, NV and it was an uphill climb with sharp turns and a temp of 113F, the PC made it out with no problem. I decided that I should turn off the AC to keep the engine temp down in that heat going uphill and it worked fine, no indication of overheating. Based on this experience, I personally would not hesitate to go out hwy 190.
I thought it would be a good idea to turn on the generator and run the coach AC to keep us cool, it worked great for a bit until I hit the steepest part turning a sharp corner and the generator went off. Apparently the fuel in the tank was below half and it sloshed around enough to suck air in the generator pick up tube which is at about 1/4 tank level. Fortunately the outside temp cooled off quickly as we climbed out of the valley.
Bob
I thought it would be a good idea to turn on the generator and run the coach AC to keep us cool, it worked great for a bit until I hit the steepest part turning a sharp corner and the generator went off. Apparently the fuel in the tank was below half and it sloshed around enough to suck air in the generator pick up tube which is at about 1/4 tank level. Fortunately the outside temp cooled off quickly as we climbed out of the valley.
Bob
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General Discussion / Re: MPG - E450 - four summers
« on: September 11, 2015, 08:07:55 pm »I assumed the throttle was open slightly at idle so I used the TPS value displayed while coasting downhill. For me that value plus 4 is 18. Your vehicle may be different.
I think the throttle is considered closed by the TPS whenever your foot is off the gas pedal, whether at idle or coasting downhill. I will check this next time out in the RV. You had a better understanding of the ScanGauge than I to know to look at the TPS value, I never thought to do that. Now I get it and will proceed accordingly.
We are heading out in the PC next week, headed to Moab and Ouray to do some Jeeping, I will check the ScanGauge then.
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General Discussion / Re: MPG - E450 - four summers
« on: September 11, 2015, 02:47:23 pm »Our Scangauge II reads 99.99 when coasting downhill in gear. Are you sure you have the Cutoff parameter set to the TPS value + 4?
This is what the manual says:
Set the Fuel Cutoff Level
Some vehicles will turn the fuel injectors off while coasting – this is known as Fuel Cutoff. ScanGauge attempts to detect the fuel cutoff condition by comparing the open/closed loop indicator and the throttle position. If ScanGauge improperly detects fuel cutoff, then you may see fuel economy being reported as 9999 MPG or 0.00 LHK.
The CUTOFF parameter allows you to set the point at which ScanGauge can determine the throttle is closed and in the fuel cutoff condition. The default value of 24 is usually correct for most vehicles but may need to be adjusted. This setting is not critical but is best at about 4 above the no-throttle TPS value. You can choose to disable the fuel cutoff sensing feature of the ScanGauge by setting the value of CUTOFF to 0.
I have left mine set at the default value of 24, because I don't know what the actual no-throttle TPS value is so that I can set it +4 above that.
Are you saying that you set yours to +4 above the no-throttle TPS value, if so, what is that value?
I may try setting it to "0" to disable the function since I am not sure what is happening here, or maybe I should call ScanGuage.
Thanks, Bob
EDITED TO ADD THE FOLLOWING:
I just sent the following to ScanGauge and will report back with their response:
I have had my ScanGauge II for three years and have always wondered about setting the Fuel Cutoff Level. Can someone tell me what exactly is happening with that function? I have left it at the "24" default setting because I don't know what the no-throttle TPS value is for my 2010 E450 V10 engine, so that I can set it at "+4" above that value.
How will the MPG readings be affected by either (A) leaving it at "24", (B) setting at the "+4" above the no-throttle value, or (C) setting it to "0" to disable the function?
Thanks for any help you can give me to understand this,
Bob
EDITED AGAIN TO ADD THE FOLLOWING:
Reply from ScanGauge:
Some vehicles will turn the fuel injectors off when coasting (also known as the fuel cutoff) which causes the fuel economy to go to 9999 MPG or 0.00 KHL. This shows when you are not using any fuel while coasting. The ScanGauge attempts to detect the fuel cutoff condition by comparing the open/ closed loop indicator and the throttle position. The cutoff parameter allows you to set the point at which the ScanGauge can determine the throttle is closed and in the fuel cutoff condition. To tell if the throttle is closed, the throttle position is checked against the CUTOFF value. CUTOFF is the value the throttle has to be below in order to indicate a fuel cutoff and show 0 fuel flow. The default (24) is right for most vehicles, but it can be adjusted. The setting is not critical, but is best if about 4 above the no-throttle TPS value. If the cutoff value is set to "0" it disables this method of fuel cutoff sensing and therefore eliminates the 9999MPG reading. To check your no throttle TPS value, pull up the TPS in the GAUGE screen while idling. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Seems simple now that it was explained further. The no-throttle value is simply the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) value at idle, when the throttle is obviously closed, and it can be found by by looking at the TPS value in the GAUGE screen. Then add 4 to that value to set the CUTOFF value.
Bob
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General Discussion / Re: Leak in bath area
« on: August 04, 2015, 06:02:03 pm »
Greg,
We had water in the same area of our 2010 2551 on a trip where we were using the shower a lot, we were not in campgrounds with showers. I determined the water was getting behind the shower handle assembly and down the wall to the floor, it then traveled behind the sink and toilet. I sealed the shower handle assembly and the leak stopped and has not appeared again.
If you have been using the shower a lot on this trip, this may be the source of your leak. If so, I can provide more details.
Bob
We had water in the same area of our 2010 2551 on a trip where we were using the shower a lot, we were not in campgrounds with showers. I determined the water was getting behind the shower handle assembly and down the wall to the floor, it then traveled behind the sink and toilet. I sealed the shower handle assembly and the leak stopped and has not appeared again.
If you have been using the shower a lot on this trip, this may be the source of your leak. If so, I can provide more details.
Bob
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General Discussion / Re: New Members Approved
« on: July 29, 2015, 07:47:29 pm »
Thanks for the heads-up, glad to help any way we can.
Thanks for the great work you do, Bob
Thanks for the great work you do, Bob
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General Discussion / Re: Rear Air not working
« on: June 16, 2015, 02:25:15 pm »Don
My understanding of the 50AMP RV service is a little different. I think a RV electric service pedestal actually provides a RV with two 50AMP phases. This means that the RV would actually receive a total of 100AMP or about 12,000 watts.
Barry
Barry,
You are right about the 50 Amp RV service, two 50 Amp 120V lines vs one 30 Amp 120V line. There is an amazing capacity difference between the two, 12,000 watts vs 3,600 watts.
Bob
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General Discussion / Re: Cable box
« on: May 08, 2015, 12:04:41 am »
Same with our 2010, use the TV menu to switch to cable input and then do the auto scan to find available channels. Also have to make sure the antenna amplifier in the cabinet to the right of the TV is off, no red LED, on is for roof antenna only.
Bob
Bob
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General Discussion / Re: Borg Dually Valve Stems
« on: April 20, 2015, 01:48:21 pm »
After five years and 30,000 miles, our extensions have worked great, no leaks and easy to check/inflate tires. I wonder what the failure (leak) rate is for these extenders? We do hear about those that have leaked, but not so much from those that have not had a problem.
Based on my no-leaks experience, I have decided to continue with extensions when we replace the tires in the next few years, but I will get new extensions. I don't want to reuse the existing ones because I think the rubber tubing may have hardened somewhat and won't like being re-positioned in the new installation.
To assure no leaks, I also wanted to have a way to keep them from getting loose on the stem. Rather than Loctite, I am thinking of putting a glob of silicone sealer on the outside of the extension nut where it meets the stem thread. This would resist loosening but be easier to remove and not risk anything getting inside the extension.
As an added level of assurance, I have recently added pressure monitors to the four duallys, I know that adds another potential leak point but then the monitor will report that.
Anyway, those are my thoughts on the subject.
Bob A
Based on my no-leaks experience, I have decided to continue with extensions when we replace the tires in the next few years, but I will get new extensions. I don't want to reuse the existing ones because I think the rubber tubing may have hardened somewhat and won't like being re-positioned in the new installation.
To assure no leaks, I also wanted to have a way to keep them from getting loose on the stem. Rather than Loctite, I am thinking of putting a glob of silicone sealer on the outside of the extension nut where it meets the stem thread. This would resist loosening but be easier to remove and not risk anything getting inside the extension.
As an added level of assurance, I have recently added pressure monitors to the four duallys, I know that adds another potential leak point but then the monitor will report that.
Anyway, those are my thoughts on the subject.
Bob A
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General Discussion / Re: Rotate passenger seat on 2552
« on: March 07, 2015, 01:23:59 pm »
Sounds like you are doing it correctly, I slide it all the way back to clear the B-pillar and then slide it forward a bit so the back of the seat clears the console to finish the rotation. Are you sure it is all the way back, I would try sliding the seat all the way forward and then all the way back. Sorry I don't have anything else.
Bob A
Bob A
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General Discussion / Re: Fluorescent light failure and melted housing
« on: March 03, 2015, 07:34:18 pm »Hello Bob,
Sorry to read what you posted and see the pictures of your light. I hope as mentioned it was a fluke.
We have all LED lights in our Cruiser and think they are very bright. Have you or anyone on the forum come across other lights that are not so bright?
We would like to switch out some of the lights mounted under the cabinets and replace them with something warmer. The LED lights we currently have put off a very BRIGHT white light.
Any thoughts or recommendations you or anyone else can share would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Dave
Hi Dave,
I don't have a lot of experience with LED lights, but if you are looking to reduce the brightness, I would contact the fixture manufacturer to see if they have replacement LED bulbs with warmer color or lower lumens. Or see if the bulb is standard and can be replaced with any other brand that is warmer or lower lumens.
Hopefully others with the newer LED fixtures will reply with better info.
Bob A