Leak in sewer pipe

We have used the macerator system multiple times without issue.  We then camped at a campground with full hookups so we hooked up and used a regular sewer hose.  After that we noticed a small but constant drip from one of the pies - not the one that the hose was hooked to but the one that comes out toward the side of the coach and is capped.  I don’t know if you can see the drip in the third photo.  Does anyone know how to fix this or do we need to go to a dealer?

Looking at the photo are you referring to the bayonet fitting that the macerator is connected to? If so there is a O ring under it and can be replaced by simply removing the bayonet mount. Sometimes just cleaning the o ring and applying some o ring sealant will do the trick. If worse come to worse a new bayonet macerator mount is under $35. 

The hard part will be separating the two pieces.  Just turn it 90 degrees counter clockwise, then pull while working it back and forth.  Once separated, your leak-free success will be determined how clean you make it.  Use Vasoline as your gasket lubricant when reassembling.

Those fittings generally don't leak unless someone took it apart but never cleaned it properly prior to reassembly.

They also leak if you've damaged it either with freezing or having bottomed out. That said, our 2013 started leaking at that connection years back and the repair shop we took it to repaired it under warranty. There was a known problem with the bayonettes. They were actually bending and separating.

On mines I use boss 820 lube. It’s a lube designed for o rings on pool pump baskets and pool filter o rings. I’m sure any brand would do. Try any pool supply in your area.  It takes very little and they may have very small tubes you can buy. Much better than vasoline for o rings IMO.

Much better than Vasoline for o rings IMO.

My whole house water filter at home is the bell jar type.  The instructions recommend using Vasoline as a gasket sealer and lubricant.  So I figure it's good for dirty water too.  Most people have a much better chance having Vasoline around the house than Boss 820 lube.  I'm just sayin... 

Ron I suppose so.   Pool equipment is all under pressure. I don’t however have Vaseline and even though dealing with  sewer pipes doesn’t bother me in the slightest it does for some . My suggestion is only based on doing it once and done. I’ve no idea if Vaseline will work but if you say so, I’m betting it will. I just know 802 and the like will even under pressure and does not dry out. Remove pump covers every week and haven’t had to reapply in over a year.   I’m guessing Vaseline doesn’t dry out either from what your telling me and in that case its a great alternative.

FWIW, our pool guy says that Vaseline is NOT good to use on chlorinated water gaskets, says it 'gums up'. He swears by a product called...I kid you not.. Magic Lube. Says the teflon makes a huge difference when taking things apart later. It is also silicone based. He is in charge of ~200 residential pools here, so I will defer to his expertise.

Quick check says that Boss 820 (and my fav, Dielectric grease) are silicone based, (and no teflon).   ""BOSS 820 Pool and Spa Lube is a silicon dioxide thickened, high molecular weight dimethyl polysiloxane-based material. It is a stiff, tacky dielectric compound with excellent water repellency""   source - https://bestpoolshop.com/product/boss-820-silicone-lube-5-3oz-pool-and-spa-82000b/

Vaseline is a mixture of mineral oils and waxes, petroleum based.   

With almost all the 'rubber' today actually having no rubber in it, and being a petroleum based product, I try to avoid spreading other petroleum based products on it, as there might be unintended interaction. I use dielectric grease for all my 'rubber lubing' needs in the mechanical world.  NO, not for 'THAT' ..  .. but some here might remember hearing warnings about using Vaseline with condoms due to dissolving.   

Volk , yup magic lube is another along with others.  In this situation if a person  sees  a pool cleaning service around or any pool store they would probably give you the tiny amount needed. Or the smallest tube of magic lube on Amazon is under 4 dollars.

Just a side note...nowhere in the installation instructions for a Thetford sanicon does it say that you need a lubricant/ sealer on the bayonet mount, tho it is probably not a bad idea.

lucky, it may not but it's an o ring and our units bouncing down the roads means flex. If a bit of o-ring lubricant will help keep it from leaking under use its pretty cheap preventive maintenance. But to each their own.

We got our 2013 2350 PC from the original buyer when it was only 11 months old and had 7000 miles.   By the time 10,000 miles came along, I was having the leak in the bayonet and upon examination I came to the conclusion that the design of the U holder for the macerator pump was mounted in such a way that the bayonet didn't stand a chance over time.  It was exerting upward pressure on the bayonet.   I modified the bracket and lowered it a fraction of an inch so that the pump, the bayonet and the discharge pipe from the tanks into the bayonet were aligned and that solved the problem.   

With all the vibration of a truck chassis going down the road, I was and remain disappointed at the use of a bayonet connection.   It is simply an invitation for trouble.   That being said, the pump itself has performed flawlessly and I have had a macerator on different rigs now for over fifteen years without pump problems except for the pump mount concern I mentioned herein. 

Paul

Done working.  I did the same. Mine had to be lowered about 1/2 inch. Here I thought it was just a fluke on mine.

I was having the leak in the bayonet and upon examination I came to the conclusion that the design of the U holder for the macerator pump was mounted in such a way that the bayonet didn't stand a chance over time.  It was exerting upward pressure on the bayonet.   I modified the bracket and lowered it a fraction of an inch so that the pump, the bayonet and the discharge pipe from the tanks into the bayonet were aligned and that solved the problem.

Paul

Paul,

Your comment brings back a memory I had with our 2007 2350.

Back in 2007, Phoenix used a generic perforated metal strap like this to support the macerator.


Lots of people complained how make-shift it was.  Phoenix responded with a very nice prefabricated metal hanger, the one you have.

Our macerator failed years ago when one of the long brass rods that assemble the macerator, broke and jammed the macerator impeller.  When installing the replacement, I made a nice fancy prefabricated band like the newer models had.  For the reasons you mentioned, I gave up on it and resorted back to the generic metal strap.

Just the slightest upward pressure on the pump caused that connection to leak.  I had forgotten about it until reading your comment.

If you look up under there, the macerator is what is holding up the discharge plumbing, that and where the 3" pipes attach to the black and gray tanks, and that is all. I just replaced the dump valves and as soon my Auto-drains arrive (if they are ever in stock again)  I will put some plumbers tape (as Ron shows above that is what we called it) to support the whole of it.