2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification

Except for that front bumper/fender flare transition.  Makes me want to poke my eyes out.    I will fix that... pretty sure I am keeping the PC cover on front and modifying it. Lowered down, it is MUCH better looking. I can see taking those top strakes on the bumper, and widening the ends to flow into the flares. Add an air dam and real foglights.

I love your front bumper cover and fender flare....we have the same.  I wouldn't change a thing, perfect as-is.  I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

I love your front bumper cover and fender flare....we have the same.  I wouldn't change a thing, perfect as-is.  I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

  Amen to that. Said it myself on occasion.

And been told I need a cane and a seeing eye dog also....     

I am still hoping your spring change is as rewarding as mine. Thanks again for sending me down that road.   

Added a Sturgistay kit !  Going to a festival and going to be running the fridge and stove for a few days. Wanted to have the option of using commonly available tanks for some time now.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Sturgi-Stay-Kit-Deluxe-p/66-7070.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjw0vTtBRBREiwA3URt7lWslBM-3OYnDbHg_NJTaXz1N_HWPq6Dzfg-7RiKnT-AH7qN-CfjCRoCpBoQAvD_BwE

I bought local for $83, worth it to keep a local 'brick and mortar' open. I filled all my tanks while there also.





First step was removing the regulator cover.



The two pins in my hand were pushed up out of the cover from the bottom, using the socket extension. Most anything will do better than your fingertip. 



Next I put the adapter inline with the regulator. There was enough free flexible line to allow this, but it was close.



Next I had to make an adapter plate to allow the regulator cover to work in a new location.

Used a scrap piece of 16ga aluminum. put a bend into it for rigidity, and used butyl tape strips where the dissimilar metals meet. Keeps corrosion down, and rattles to a minimum. 



Installed. One 1/4-20 bolt, washers and nylock nut.



Auxilary feed in the 'over the road' stowage. Velcro ties top and bottom keep it secure.



In use.   



Those little black things dangling from the line are the Velcro ties.

Also got replacement marker lights for the rear. The upper right had taken in water. The dark part in the lens is water, it sloshes back and forth freely.



I am holding the old light upside down, the rusty spot was the top screw. It was rusty, as white silicone it had been bedded in had pulled out. Water had been running down the wire, and had filled a wire nut with rust. Apparently it also allowed water down the wire and into the light.

I got exact replacements here -  http://www.commandelectronics.com/shop/flange-mounted-sealed-led-clearance-light-side-marker-light

Ordered 6, one spare and to replace the other 13 year old lights, that are also 'sealed' with white silicone..   

Butyl tape shown, same roll that helped in the last project. I already applied it to one light before photo time.



Close up of the butyl tape cut into thirds, and applied to the flange of the light.  The paper backing tears a bit, but still works well.  It 'squooshed' out nicely in the one I installed already.
EDIT - YOU TAKE THE PAPER OFF COMPLETELY before installing the light. Forgot to mention that..... 




Have to go to Home depot for stainless screws for the rest... but got the inoperative one replaced.    And brass plugs.

Disconnecting the LP feed to the furnace also, it IS leaking.     The leak drained the onboard tank over the past few weeks, and has the hydrogen sulfide 'rotten eggs' smell at the furnace exhaust. It has been suspect for a while. We accidentally ran it once last winter , and ever since I got the hint of LP more than I care to outside. Doesnt set the alarm off, but I wonder if the feed valve didn't seat right and has a small continuous leak since.

Well Sugar Honey Iced Tea....   Found a little more than I bargained for.

The instructions say you can leave the aux feed hose on with a tank attached, and when 'BRIEFLY' disconnected to change tanks.

'Briefly'  because the male POL fitting does not seal.    It hisses gas. Gonna need a valve on there. For now the line is stowed away, and the stock plug put on. I really want to leave that line on, so I have one less thing stowed 'elsewhere', needing tools to install/remove it.

I did add a street 90 on the end of the regulator to reduce the curve in the discharge line. It was too sharp for my liking.

Used 3/8" Flare cap and plug to disconnect and seal the furnace line. Zip tied the disconnected line. After doing so, went around with Dawn dishsoap and water in a spray bottle to check for leaks.

  I found them. The new cap needed thread sealant before it would seal 'bubble tight'. 

  THE THREE CONNECTORS LEFT UNDERNEATH - FRIDGE, WATER HEATER AND STOVE ALL WERE LEAKING. 

From the 'main distribution pipe' fittings where they had the flare fiiting to go to 3/8 copper line.   
I had not touched any of these, and I suspect they have been leaking since my owning the camper. Gave them all a 1/3 - 3/4 (!) turn and things sealed up. Not sure if it was an original assembly fault, or loosened up over time (?!?) .

After finding that, i went to every single fitting and checked. The end at each appliance was leak free.    Unnerving to find the leaks underneath, however.  Should you be creeping around under your rig, bring a soapy water spray and pressurize the LP system. Might be surprised!! I sure was.


With the furnace disconnected, the LP smell on the drivers side is gone.   

Very interesting!  Thanks for sharing all your repairs and improvements with all the "got-you's" along the way.

UPDATE!

Well... I heartily recommend that people check the LP connections underneath their rig with soapy water in a spray bottle.

I just thought it took a lot of gas to run a fridge. The 11 gal tank would last maybe 5 days. Part of the reason we thought full hookup was needed to be out for more than a week, needing the electric for the fridge.

Not now!  Ran the fridge for 5 days on a 5 gal propane tank, and it still feels 1/2 full . 

REALLY need a valve for the fill. It is a royal PITA needing tools to pack up. Other than that, the external tank mod was a great purchase for us. Especially leading me to the gas leaks underneath. 

I heartily recommend that people check the LP connections underneath their rig with soapy water in a spray bottle.

I just thought it took a lot of gas to run a fridge. The 11 gal tank would last maybe 5 days. Part of the reason we thought full hookup was needed to be out for more than a week, needing the electric for the fridge.

Not now!  Ran the fridge for 5 days on a 5 gal propane tank, and it still feels 1/2 full.

Great advise to check the connections with soap.

In 2007, our maiden voyage with our brand new PC was a 3 week (23 day) vacation out west visiting national parks.  We ran the fridge exclusively on propane.  We also used the stove daily and the furnace one night.  I relied on the propane meter on the kitchen hood which always said there was adequate propane.  Our last day, 4 hours from home, we realized the fridge had shut down (out of propane) since our previous stop.  So the fridge alone should last at least 3 weeks, maybe 4 weeks on a full PC tank.

I advise not to rely exclusively on the kitchen hood propane meter.  The analog gauge on the tank is the better reading when you get below 50% usage on the kitchen meter.

To clarify Ron's post: the idiot lights or kitchen meter or whatever you wish to call the panel where you check tanks is on the wing wall behind the driver seat. It shows propane, fresh water, black tank and grey tank. As Ron stated for the propane, these are not known to be accurate but they are handy for a quick check in non critical conditions.

To clarify Ron's post: the idiot lights or kitchen meter or whatever you wish to call the panel where you check tanks is on the wing wall behind the driver seat.

On my 2006 2350, they are above the stove like Rons, in the vent hood.  Ergo ""kitchen hood propane meter.""     I never did check to see if it was accurate as far as full -  1/2 - Empty   (thinking on it, might be 1/3 - 2/3 etc... whateveah...)

 From a memory of installing a home unit for indoor LP tank meter reading, I seem to remember you can rotate the sending unit to calibrate to 'empty'...but that may have been specific to that unit.  More research needed.

But yes, stinks to be out of LP and no way to fill it. That's what the Sturgistay kit solves. The exchange tanks are available in a amazing number of places. Pretty sure I am going to make a 2-tank holder for the trailer to carry my spares.    But WOW... not such a pressing issue with the leaks solved. I never would have DREAMED of 3-4 weeks of fridge with the onboard tank before. Thanks for that input Ron!

But yes, stinks to be out of LP and no way to fill it. That's what the Sturgistay kit solves.

Might just note for the record that Phoenix offers this kit as a build option on new units--the kit they installed on mine was a Camco, but looks identical to the unit that Volkemon installed.  I believe the installed Phoenix option was about $160 or so.  It includes the long hose to feed a gas grill or other propane appliance and the short hose to feed from an auxiliary LP source to the RV.  I haven't had occasion to use mine yet, but definitely wanted the capability.

Mike

Sweet! PC leads the way again.


I will post my valve mod to the kit.  I wish to leave the supply hose installed on the camper, and also to change it to the 'handwheel' external tank connection.



I really want a 'tool free' external tank hookup. Having to carry 3 wrenches and remove the hose for travel is a no-go in my book.  (7/16 and backing wrench to remove/install hose, 7/8 wrench to connect hose to external tank) 

Thank you Volkemon, again!  Just got done changing out the back marker lights.  We had the same issue, all were filled with water.  Thanks for the info on replacing them, ordered some extra as well just in case.   

Thank you Volkemon, again!  Just got done changing out the back marker lights.  We had the same issue, all were filled with water.  Thanks for the info on replacing them, ordered some extra as well just in case.   

EDIT!!   In the marker light instructions, I noted the paper on the butyl strip tore a little applying it to the light. I never mentioned that YOU TAKE THE PAPER OFF COMPLETELY before installing the light.  I could see how someone unfamiliar with the butyl tape might not know this...

Picking up our 'Towd in the Hole' tomorrow. It will be in the toy hauler trailer, hence the 'in the hole' addition. 



We both like this color, like an olive gunmetal grey, for the lack of a better description. Going to paint the trailer first, then the camper. Should make for a great looking setup.

I am going to remove the cutting board platform and shipping trunk (!) on the back when it gets home. Should look MUCH better.

Glad we have a direction in color now. We had too many choices before, this made a perfect reason to pick one.