Winterize

Those are low-point drains of the water lines. A lot of water still comes out after draining the lines when you blow out the system.

Donc13
Once again thanks for sharing all your knowledge regarding PC items. 

I already have the bypass kit installed on the water pump.  So I just need to buy a blow out plug.  I will consider this method next year.  But I have to investigate how my city water connection is tapped into the plumbing system.  We have not used the city water connection yet.  We just fill the water tank and use the pump.  I have not looked for any type of 3-4way valve on the city water connection nor do I remember seeing any under the driver side bed storage area.   This info is important to clear the city connection line of water with the compressed air.

Ron S

Sarz
I have the same year 2551 as you, and it does not have the 3-4 way valve, just the street-side city water connection.
Here is another very easy way to blow out your system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHK5k1P0DZM

Get the type of plug that your air hose can quick-connect to, like this one:
https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+blowout+plug&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS749US749&oq=rv&aqs=chrome.0.35i39j69i57j69i59l2j0i67l4.1948j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
and set your compressor to 30-35 psi output.

Dougn

I live in central Texas where the temperature reaches freezing or below only on occasion and for only a short period of time; usually overnight.  My PC is stored in a covered spot (not enclosed) with a 30 amp hookup.  Last year, I did not winterize.  I leave the water heater on and also the tank heaters.  I pour a little pink down all the drains and not convinced that this is necessary.  If the temps are expected to be really low and/or for an extended period, I will turn on the propane furnace and set the thermostat at it's lowest setting, which I believe is 40.  I suffered no problems.

Cheers 
Barry T

2 Lucky
Thanks for that info.  There must must some kind of back flow valve near the city connection.  If not, the system would not seal.  I like putting the blowout plug and quick connect at the city water input.  Much easier than crawling around inside and assures one gets all water out.  Our 2010 2551 PCs are some much simpler than newer models.  I like that a lot.

Do you know where the city connection ties into the water system?  By the pump? By the shower?...

You Colorado guys come through again!!  Thanks much!!

Ron S.

Donc13
Once again thanks for sharing all your knowledge regarding PC items. 

I already have the bypass kit installed on the water pump.  So I just need to buy a blow out plug.  I will consider this method next year.  But I have to investigate how my city water connection is tapped into the plumbing system.  We have not used the city water connection yet.  We just fill the water tank and use the pump.  I have not looked for any type of 3-4way valve on the city water connection nor do I remember seeing any under the driver side bed storage area.   This info is important to clear the city connection line of water with the compressed air.

Ron S

The City water connection connects to the cold water line, probably by the shower.   There is a backflow preventer built in right at the city water connection.  It's simply a spring loaded "flap" that works like a one way valve.  There is another similar spring loaded flap in the water pump outlet to the cold water line.

So, if you are going to use the city water line for the air compressor attachment... There's one additional step you need to take... After blowing out the lines, leave the low point drains OPEN and disconnect the compressor (but leave the adapter on the city water connector.  Turn on the water pump for a minute or two... This will drain any water in the line between the fresh water tank and the water pump's input.  It's not a lot of water, but will also clear out the pump head.   Shut the water pump off, reconnect the air compressor and blow out that small amount of water via the low point drains.   Disconnect the compressor and adapter, close the low point drains, you' re done.

BTW, after blowing the lines out, I do use RV antifreeze to winterize the sink and shower traps.   I use a full gallon between the 3, which is more than enough to keep them from freezing.

Don

Ron S
[/quote]

The City water connection connects to the cold water line, probably by the shower.   There is a backflow preventer built in right at the city water connection.  It's simply a spring loaded "flap" that works like a one way valve.  There is another similar spring loaded flap in the water pump outlet to the cold water line.

So, if you are going to use the city water line for the air compressor attachment... There's one additional step you need to take... After blowing out the lines, leave the low point drains OPEN and disconnect the compressor (but leave the adapter on the city water connector.  Turn on the water pump for a minute or two... This will drain any water in the line between the fresh water tank and the water pump's input.  It's not a lot of water, but will also clear out the pump head.   Shut the water pump off, reconnect the air compressor and blow out that small amount of water via the low point drains.   Disconnect the compressor and adapter, close the low point drains, you' re done.

BTW, after blowing the lines out, I do use RV antifreeze to winterize the sink and shower traps.   I use a full gallon between the 3, which is more than enough to keep them from freezing.

Don

Agreeing with Donc above on running the pump to clear the water line there. I'd like to add to open the gray tank valve after filling the sink and shower p-traps, then run the macerator until you see the pink to protect that pump also. Easy to do and you don't have to drink it!

Reviving this post here as it has some good info. 

I did my first ever winterize of my 2011 2350 last night after getting home from work as we are having an early freeze in my area this weekend. Thanks to this forum and youtube vids i went into it with a clear plan of the steps i needed to take and everything went well. Since i dont have a winterize valve like the newer models i went with the other less preferred method of draining everything and adding the pink juice to the fresh tank and then using the pump fill all the lines. Im confident that i got everything including the outdoor shower and macerator. I saw a method on youtube for getting the pink juice into the fresh tank that worked ok, 20oz drink bottle with a notch cut out to make an impromptu funnel. The only thing that took longer than it should was draining the water heater. A previous owner had replaced the OE drain plug with a petcock type drain like you would find on your radiator, so it was a very small stream of water. It still only took me 43 minutes from start to finish so i cant complain.

Ive ordered the camco bypass valve and some garden hose to shrader adapters so i can blow out easy in the future. My one question is for anyone who uses the camco bypass. My pump is located under the corner bed and ill have to access that area to utilize that bypass. Do you just place your jug-o-pink in the floor next to the bed to suck out of or have you routed your hose through the floor or just a longer hose that will reach outside. Im considering all 3 of those options. My main goal is so is to not have to add the pink stuff to the holding tank that i then have to flush back out 3 times to get rid of the foul taste.

I will preface my comment by saying I live in central Texas where the winters are milder than many parts of the USA.  Occasionally, we experience several, consecutive days of temps below freezing and a few in the teens. 

I use the device that screws into the moho where you would place the fresh water hose when at a campsite.  It has a valve similar to that on a tire.  I use this to carefully clear the lines with compressed air.  I drain the water heater and systematically blow out the lines...first in the galley, then in the bath.  I leave the faucets open.  Works great and never a problem.  Frankly, I see no reason why this would not work in the colder areas{?).

I always use a Battery Tender on my engine battery. 

My routine is very similar to BFTOWNES. 
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[/size]First I drain the fresh water tank.  And drain the water heater tank. When the WH is drained I put the cap back in to hold air/water pressure.

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[/size]Next I hookup the air compressor with the adapter for the pressurized water inlet and then blow out the faucets, shower and toilet.  Remember to do Hot and Cold sides. I typically start at my shower since it it closest to pressurized water inlet.. And do the kitchen faucet last since it is the farthest.
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[/size]Next I open the 2 lowest point drains, and remove the drain plug on the hot water heater. You'll never get the water heater completely empty, but as long as the water is down to the level of the drain cap, the tank only gets wider above it... and the freeze expansion won't hurt it.  (it's like freezing water in a round bowl. Without vertical sides it just pushes up)
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[/size]Then I drain the grey and black tank if needed (depends upon how much water you just put in our blowing out the lines. Typically I skip this step).
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[/size]And finally, about cup or two of pink antifreeze in the drains and a quarter inch in the toilet.  Any extra you put down will just accumulate in the grey (or black  tanks. Since they should be empty the pink stuff  accumulates at the blade valves.  I usually open and quickly closed the grey tank valve so that the pink stuff ends up in the throat of the macerator.
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[/size]Excluding the time it takes to drain the fresh water tank, I can do all this in 30 min.
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[/size]For me, the biggest challenge is remembering to to do it in order...


[/size]One thing to consider is a good walk through of the cabinets/pantry/bathroom/cab dog house to make sure there's nothing else that would freeze. I left a couple cans of soda under the sink one year. They froze. The cans ballooned, but didn't explode. I was lucky.

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[/size]When Spring comes you just need to close the 2 low point drains, flush out the water heater, sterilize and fill the fresh water and you're ready to go.