Winterize

Those are low-point drains of the water lines. A lot of water still comes out after draining the lines when you blow out the system.

Donc13
Once again thanks for sharing all your knowledge regarding PC items. 

I already have the bypass kit installed on the water pump.  So I just need to buy a blow out plug.  I will consider this method next year.  But I have to investigate how my city water connection is tapped into the plumbing system.  We have not used the city water connection yet.  We just fill the water tank and use the pump.  I have not looked for any type of 3-4way valve on the city water connection nor do I remember seeing any under the driver side bed storage area.   This info is important to clear the city connection line of water with the compressed air.

Ron S

Sarz
I have the same year 2551 as you, and it does not have the 3-4 way valve, just the street-side city water connection.
Here is another very easy way to blow out your system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHK5k1P0DZM

Get the type of plug that your air hose can quick-connect to, like this one:
https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+blowout+plug&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS749US749&oq=rv&aqs=chrome.0.35i39j69i57j69i59l2j0i67l4.1948j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
and set your compressor to 30-35 psi output.

Dougn

I live in central Texas where the temperature reaches freezing or below only on occasion and for only a short period of time; usually overnight.  My PC is stored in a covered spot (not enclosed) with a 30 amp hookup.  Last year, I did not winterize.  I leave the water heater on and also the tank heaters.  I pour a little pink down all the drains and not convinced that this is necessary.  If the temps are expected to be really low and/or for an extended period, I will turn on the propane furnace and set the thermostat at it's lowest setting, which I believe is 40.  I suffered no problems.

Cheers 
Barry T

2 Lucky
Thanks for that info.  There must must some kind of back flow valve near the city connection.  If not, the system would not seal.  I like putting the blowout plug and quick connect at the city water input.  Much easier than crawling around inside and assures one gets all water out.  Our 2010 2551 PCs are some much simpler than newer models.  I like that a lot.

Do you know where the city connection ties into the water system?  By the pump? By the shower?...

You Colorado guys come through again!!  Thanks much!!

Ron S.

Donc13
Once again thanks for sharing all your knowledge regarding PC items. 

I already have the bypass kit installed on the water pump.  So I just need to buy a blow out plug.  I will consider this method next year.  But I have to investigate how my city water connection is tapped into the plumbing system.  We have not used the city water connection yet.  We just fill the water tank and use the pump.  I have not looked for any type of 3-4way valve on the city water connection nor do I remember seeing any under the driver side bed storage area.   This info is important to clear the city connection line of water with the compressed air.

Ron S

The City water connection connects to the cold water line, probably by the shower.   There is a backflow preventer built in right at the city water connection.  It's simply a spring loaded "flap" that works like a one way valve.  There is another similar spring loaded flap in the water pump outlet to the cold water line.

So, if you are going to use the city water line for the air compressor attachment... There's one additional step you need to take... After blowing out the lines, leave the low point drains OPEN and disconnect the compressor (but leave the adapter on the city water connector.  Turn on the water pump for a minute or two... This will drain any water in the line between the fresh water tank and the water pump's input.  It's not a lot of water, but will also clear out the pump head.   Shut the water pump off, reconnect the air compressor and blow out that small amount of water via the low point drains.   Disconnect the compressor and adapter, close the low point drains, you' re done.

BTW, after blowing the lines out, I do use RV antifreeze to winterize the sink and shower traps.   I use a full gallon between the 3, which is more than enough to keep them from freezing.

Don

Ron S
[/quote]

The City water connection connects to the cold water line, probably by the shower.   There is a backflow preventer built in right at the city water connection.  It's simply a spring loaded "flap" that works like a one way valve.  There is another similar spring loaded flap in the water pump outlet to the cold water line.

So, if you are going to use the city water line for the air compressor attachment... There's one additional step you need to take... After blowing out the lines, leave the low point drains OPEN and disconnect the compressor (but leave the adapter on the city water connector.  Turn on the water pump for a minute or two... This will drain any water in the line between the fresh water tank and the water pump's input.  It's not a lot of water, but will also clear out the pump head.   Shut the water pump off, reconnect the air compressor and blow out that small amount of water via the low point drains.   Disconnect the compressor and adapter, close the low point drains, you' re done.

BTW, after blowing the lines out, I do use RV antifreeze to winterize the sink and shower traps.   I use a full gallon between the 3, which is more than enough to keep them from freezing.

Don

Agreeing with Donc above on running the pump to clear the water line there. I'd like to add to open the gray tank valve after filling the sink and shower p-traps, then run the macerator until you see the pink to protect that pump also. Easy to do and you don't have to drink it!