Gray tank auto switch continues to blink

Had service today at Indy RV in St. George, Utah to replace the black dump valve. Not good.

John had also scheduled generator service and new batteries. Total bill was over $700.00...

However, when we picked her up they explained they checked and the valve and seals were fine but they adjusted the horseshoe shaped thing on the auto drain so that it closed properly then ran it in and out a few times and it worked fine. We paid, drove back to the campsite, hooked up and (after I insisted), checked it. Guess what? It didn't work. We called then drove back to the repair shop.

They then asked if we had dumped. John had dumped and flushed three times that morning using the macerator and said so (more on that later). They then took the auto drain apart and told us the valve still worked fine but the gears inside the auto drain were stripped and they couldn't get parts so they would cut the wires and cap them. As we waited I thought about that and asked the service manager how they could check the seals in the morning without knowing if we dumped AND how they could run it in and out four or five times if the gears were stripped. I said I wanted a new valve (which is why we are there in the first place). The manager agreed and called the techs and told them we knew we'd been lied to and to put on a new valve.

It appears that when they took it apart nasty stuff came out (stuck somewhere in the system or added after we dropped the rig - John probably should have flushed through the three inch hose also then we'd know for sure). They finally told us the new valve was on, we paid for the part (I told  them I wasn't paying again for the labor), drove back to camp... And noticed a drip. I had John hook up the flush hose and water was dumping out of that valve... In the closed position. I suspect the rubber baskets aren't even in there. The top of the valve they installed is also chewed up - no clue what that's about.

We called, told them it was leaking and they said no techs available. I said we'd be there at 9:00 when they opened but they hung up on me. I may be hunting a lawyer tomorrow. For tonight, we have a bucket in the bathroom. There are no facilities at the park we are at so we'll be bucketing then dumping the bucket down the sewer pipe.

So, who wants to hire these guys to fix your RV? Or maybe buy a new rig from them? I'm sure they'll be happy to service it for you.

What a horror story! Everyone's worst nightmare. Hope you can get it all back to working condition and back on the road.

If camping in their driveway won’t make them fix their botched repair try tightening the 4 flange bolts with the valve closed. Not overly tight, kitty-corner pattern, 1/2 turn, repeat until just past the point where the bolts begin to feel snug. Overtightening will damage the seals or cause binding. Check out YouTube for all things DIY.

Success! They took the rig right away and I explained that due to the problems, I was going to sit right there and watch. They sent in what we figure is their trouble shooter. He took it apart, installed a new valve, tested it with a full tank of water and we were good to go. No auto drain since the first guy cut the wires and capped them so John has to crawl under to dump but at least we won't be spewing nasty stuff.

I'll take the auto drain apart to see if the gears are really stripped of if that was just the first guy's attempt to avoid removing the valve. The second tech also said to hit the rod on the valves with lubricant every so often. We've done that but maybe not enough with the dusty dry states we've been in.

My Gray tank actuator light is still blinking when I close the gray tank auto valve. To stop the blinking I have to push the Gray tank pull handle in. I believe it may be sticking and something is preventing the valve from closing until I push on it. I drained the gray tank and opened the manual gray tank valve looking down the pip to watched the auto valve open and close a few times. The Auto valve does not open all the way. I can see about 1/4th of the auto valve in view. I believe if the valve was working correctly I should not be able to see any of the auto valves in the open position when I look through the bypass manual port is that a  correct assumption? I did not have any dry lubricant with me so I did not get a chance to lube it. What type of Lube should I get and how often should I lube that valve. I'm not sure the spray lube will reach down that many bypass tube to reach the valve. and do I need to lube the push rod as well? I'm a newbie so thanks for the help in advance.

Keep a spray can of silicone oil handy in your RV.
It has many uses.  lubricating mechanical parts, auto dump valve shafts, steps etc.
Do not use regular lubricating oils like such as WD40 as they will attack rubber seals and attract dirt.

This is almost too complicated. Had the same problem. Gave up came on home it was time and eventually it seemed to stop. I asked service man I had for another problem... and he said just leave it alone... and some one else said something may be stuck... so who knows. Never had this on the macerator in the Class A....

On our trip the black tank valve stopped closing all the way. Stayed open just enough to leak by.

There is no issue with it getting in the gray tank. The traps keep any order from entering the coach. I ordered two new valves and dreaded the idea of changing out the black tank valve.

Once I got home I flushed the tank a couple times and then stared at the valve with dread for a lonnnng time. I used an oil pan to catch anything once I started to pull the valve. As it turns out I wasted time staring at it. It’s not a bad job, took all of 20 minutes. Roughly half a gallon of water drained when I pulled the old valve loose. 

So for those considering, it’s no big deal, 20 minutes and a $15 valve. In the future I’d have no issue changing it on on the road.

I just  changed out the one as the gray valve works fine. I’ll carry the additional new as a spare.