Gray tank auto switch continues to blink

If the electrical part of the actuator is operating properly, there is no need to manually open or close the valves.  If you override the electric actuator manually, you will probably damage the plastic gearing of the actuator requiring repair or replacement.  The removal of the wires was in the event the actuator was inoperable, removing the actuator and wiring would be a cure so that you could dump manually.

Larry

The valve is a standard manual valve.  PC just attaches an electric actuator onto the handle.  So to operate the valve manually you need to disconnect the actuator.  It isn't difficult and I would suggest that you take a look and make sure you have the tools on board to do so if you ever need to.  But its not something that you should have to worry about.

I got something stuck in my black valve once and had to disconnect the actuator and pipe in order to manually clear it.  Not a fun job, especially lying on your back under the rig.  Fortunately I had everything I needed in my tool kit.

I got something stuck in my black valve once and had to disconnect the actuator and pipe in order to manually clear it.  Not a fun job, especially lying on your back under the rig.  Fortunately I had everything I needed in my tool kit.

Hi John,

What was the item that jammed your valve?  I hear on RV forums, regardless of the RV manufacture, construction material is sometimes left inside the tank like a screw or plastic round cut-out.  It then gets stuck at and jams the valve.

Did you first try to fill the tank to the tippy-top and then open the flood gates to let it all out in a rush through the 3" gravity drain?

I am curious to know what caused the jam.

Ron Dittmer

Our black valve is sticking. We've been doing a two man dump - I push the button, John lies under the rig and "helps" by pulling the manual handle. We finally got to a place he could work on it and disconnected the actuator. Actuator worked fine so it is a sticky valve. He didn't think he could leave the actuator hanging there while driving so he put it back together.

We hit a town in a few days and plan to pick up Thetford valve lubricant and give that a try before we have to disassemble the whole system (which John plans to pay a repair shop to do.)

I read some other forums and blogs and the sticking is apparently common and it helps to lubricate them periodically... Somehow. Some people drilled holes and put grease ports in... Yeah, not happening.

Any thoughts?

I read some other forums and blogs and the sticking is apparently common and it helps to lubricate them periodically... Somehow. Some people drilled holes and put grease ports in... Yeah, not happening.

Any thoughts?

I would be right at home adding a grease fitting...any chance of a link to that post?

Mine appears to close, light stays off, but it leaks.    I am GUESSING maybe the rubber gasket is shifted/torn/gone.   I did try the flood method to flush it, filled the black tank until I saw water in the commode. No improvement. For now I have an 'add on' valve at the end of the line to contain things.

I have to bring it in to work to dump the tanks to work on it. Grandson apparently used the bathroom a few times going home. He is still amazed at the ability to go to the bathroom while underway.       The only other thing Grandpa has (in a car) that fascinated him this much are the windows in my lil' truck.  Manual, crank up windows.    He is 8, and had never seen such a thing.   

Here's one link http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=48156.0  but you'll find lots of discussion and videos if you google dump valves sticking. We are monitoring data at the moment use so I didn't watch any of the videos.

On grandkids: Chloe was 7 when we bought the Phoenix. She immediately started referring to it as "OUR" camper house. After our first trip she declared she loved it because she can eat when she wants, sleep when she wants, and use the bathroom when she wants. Quite a step up from being the bored kid in the back seat with no control over food and bathroom breaks.

Our black valve is sticking.

Talked to an RV repair shop yesterday. He said sticking valves is common if using liquid tank chemicals because many contain formaldehyde and it destroys the seals. We use the blue Walex pouches which he said are the best and he never heard of valve problems with them.

He also said the problem is usually swelling of the two "O" rings that flank the opening in the valve blade. He said once they swell you have to replace the valve. Being really bad at home repairs, we're paying the man to put a new valve in on Monday. John is tired of crawling under the rig to dump.

What was the item that jammed your valve?  I hear on RV forums, regardless of the RV manufacture, construction material is sometimes left inside the tank like a screw or plastic round cut-out.  It then gets stuck at and jams the valve.

Ron, I never found what it was.  I suspect a bit of plastic because the valve would close down to about 1/4" from sealing but no further.  So it might have been a plastic shaving from construction.  I removed the actuator, then the valve.  Disassembled the valve and cleaned all parts then put everything back together and it worked.  I wasn't too interested in sorting through the mess to figure out what was stuck.

I might have been more thorough if I was home but we were at an RV park and needed to pack and move so time was an issue.

Quote

What was the item that jammed your valve?  I hear on RV forums, regardless of the RV manufacture, construction material is sometimes left inside the tank like a screw or plastic round cut-out.  It then gets stuck at and jams the valve.

Ron, I never found what it was.  I suspect a bit of plastic because the valve would close down to about 1/4" from sealing but no further.  So it might have been a plastic shaving from construction.  I removed the actuator, then the valve.  Disassembled the valve and cleaned all parts then put everything back together and it worked.  I wasn't too interested in sorting through the mess to figure out what was stuck.

I might have been more thorough if I was home but we were at an RV park and needed to pack and move so time was an issue.

Thanks jatrax for the details.

Still stuck. Took rig in Monday as scheduled but repair shop was backed up. Had about a dozen tickets on the counter and said parts just came in for rigs that had been waiting and might get to us by noon... Should have waited but we rolled figuring we'd catch the next shop on the way. Unfortunately we can't get anyone else touch it for another two weeks.

John, how hard is it to disassemble AND how messy? I'm willing to buy the part and crawl under there and attempt to replace the valve if it isn't too evil or difficult. We're in a very tight RV park tonight with full hook ups but may wind up on BLM land the next three days. If they let us do it here, clean up would be easier. On BLM land nobody would care but cleanup would be more difficult. John is reluctant to attempt it but he said it is getting extremely difficult to open and is afraid we'll break it and/or the auto-drain.

Holly,
It wasn't something I would do for fun, like waxing the rig or changing the oil but technically it wasn't bad.  Not all that messy either.  My issue was with the black tank, so I dumped that then the gray tank, then flushed and dumped the black tank twice.  Only then did I start to take it apart.

Since you know in advance just have the parts (new valve) on hand first.  I had to repair the valve on mine because no opportunity to get parts but in your case I would just swap out the valve then see if you can repair the old one as a spare.

Take off the actuator and accompanying wires and set that aside.  Then disconnect and remove the valve.  If I remember correctly that part went smoothly.  I had more trouble taking the valve apart and getting it back together with the O-rings in the right place which you will not have to mess with if you are just replacing the valve.

John
Good luck and email or call if you need help.

Awh... I get in this line too. I gave up when it would not shut off.... went on my trip and when I went to dump sewer it had stopped and it did turn on again and after that worked. I am no genius so what happened I will not be guessing. I am lucky I don't need a porta potty…. and a catalog . Feel lucky when it works ok.

John flat out does not want to tackle it and looks pained when I talk about crawling under there to fix it. He managed to get a service time in St. George next week. This left us hanging in southern Utah so we're rolling back to Kanab today and volunteering with the animals at Best Friends until then. Nothing like slobber and snuggles from dogs, cats, bunnies and birds to take your mind off your troubles.

Just dropped the drainage system on my 2350. 8 bolts and cut a bunch of wires its on the ground.

The rubber seal on the black tank valve was distorted, allowing leakage into the 'common' pipe. 

The rubber seal on the gray valve is in unknown condition. I dont think I will ever see it again.  (It was missing - air gap around the blade.  )

OK, that explains the poopy smell inside sometimes.    And the need for the extra valve on the end of the system to contain things.  I could see the actuators opening and closing fully, they were not sealing internally. Electric actuators still work fine.    Bench tested with a battery.

 Here is a CURRENT parts/wiring diagram for the unit, the wire colors do not match my 2006 model. The mounting bracket is a bit different on mine also.

https://www.barkermfg.com/uploads/5/4/9/4/54943161/auto-drain.pdf

On mine, blue and orange are motor , yellow goes to the light.


And Bristol 3" slide valves. The flanges for the valves are attached to the rest of the drain system, and only the center is removable. This means I have to match it up with the correct replacement center section - others may bolt on, but not fit/seal right at all.  OR rebuild the entire system from scratch.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Sewer/LaSalle-Bristol/34466N4BB.html?feed=npn&gclid=CjwKCAjwwtTmBRBqEiwA-b6c_2KBm6TGxQOzVzrLxUI-q1ksYpeFAjTTJT6k_Sr5Bl_CjbLelioCwxoC9XQQAvD_BwE

You do NOT have disconnect any wires to open the gate valve manually. You just take the black plastic handle off the actuator shaft, push the actuator shaft out of the way and reinstall the black handle on the gate valve shaft. You will have to crawl under the camper to get to one of the valves. as to replacing the gears inside the actuator; I called the factory direct and then sent me the round gear and the straight rack gear free. I froze mine in cold weather and broke both grey and black valve actuators. Wasn't a hard job, just lying on your back having dirt fall in your face.  https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/Smileys/emotes/pyho.gif