For the TRX wanabes

Exactly!!
The “resort “ parks are mostly filled with class a’s and 5th wheels. Young families  have lightweight trailers instead of new F-250 powerstroke tow rigs. The  smaller class b & c’s  are out in the national parks or at the lake or boonies pulling boats and off road toys. No one size fits all.

Some of us upsized from b’s and others downsized from a’s. Phoenix seems to recognize this, so best of luck to them with the Transit TRX project.

Hi all , back from our trip west and catching up on some forum chat ! From what I've read there is mention of a cutaway version , would like to know if builders are going to opt for the diesel version or the 3.5 Eco Boost motor . I would prefer the gas version myself , though the diesel might outdo it a little, just extra cost factors involved . Haven't seen much on the PC version motorwise, hope they can come up with a twin bed model like the 2551-2 floor plan ! 

Pappy

Heres a list of whats out there now.  None of the Class C's to date have used the EcoBoost engine. Either the straight 3.2 V-6 gas or the diesel.  Coachman Crossfit class B is offering it as an option.

More Trivia on the Ford Transit.

Someone put together a poll as to what and why you traded for a Transit on the Fuse owners forum.  Nothing surprising info I guess.

Very interesting ! How come I can't find that kind of info ? It will be interesting to see what the numbers are on the Eco vs diesel when it's available , seems people are shying away from diesels but you can only get what they have available I guess . Do like the LTV stuff though . Why does it have to be so complicated    Thanks for the info !

Very interesting ! How come I can't find that kind of info ? It will be interesting to see what the numbers are on the Eco vs diesel when it's available , seems people are shying away from diesels but you can only get what they have available I guess . Do like the LTV stuff though . Why does it have to be so complicated    Thanks for the info !

The list took a while to put together last fall.  The 2020 Transit will have a host of changes when it comes out next ????? late summer fall.  The biggest is the Cab Chassis and Cutaway will have a GVWR of 11,000 LBS, up from 10,360 in 2019.  The other changes are a new 2.0L diesel with more HP and torque then the current one.  Also a new V6 gas with more umph and the EcoBoost 3.5L stays the same.  AWD will be available on some models.  Probably not the cutaway.

The LTV Wonder is quite an RV.  I did a build on it.  Hope PC has similiar layouts. I noticed the solar panels are flat almost like a sheet of vinyl.  They call them flex solar panels. 

https://leisurevans.com/wp-content/themes/ltv-wp/img/builder/options/modal/Flex-Solar-Panels.jpg

Anyone have any experience with them you could share?

Ron

The Winnebago Paseo b van uses the ecoboost engine.
 
According to  my friend who drives a Fusion the ecoboost engine is not suitable for motohome applications because  fuel efficiency suffers when the engine has to work hard.

Ron, I'll share this with you about flexible solar panels.   I installed a conventional 100 watt Renogy solar panel on our PC 2350 a few years ago and after using it for the summer I ordered a flex solar panel to add another 100 watts.

If I were doing the project again, I would use flex solar panels exclusively.   I mounted my panel on the roof of the PC using 3M 4941 VHB Double-Sided Acrylic Foam Tape from Amazon.  I sealed around the entire panel with an rv roof caulking sealant.
That was three years ago and I have not had any problems whatsoever with either panel.   This whole shebang including a controller, wire, etc cost me about $450 as I recall.  The two most important advantages of the flex panel over the fixed was weight (the flex panel weighs about 25% of the fixed panel with mounts) and ease of fastening it down.   No need to drill into the roof. 

I had no previous experience with solar and wanted to add it because we often boondock for a few weeks at a time in one place.   The next year, I bought another 100 watt panel and carry it with me in our Jeep we tow behind the PC for extended trips.   I built a stand for that one, added fifty feet of wire and made a quick disconnect to plug it in to the system.   So, now I have 200w fixed and 100 w I can move about to really gen out the juice by pointing it directly at the sun when I move it a few times each day.  Our favorite boondocking spots always include a bit of shade. 

 Paul

Paul

Thanks that is great information. Just stumbled on these and thought they were good idea.

Did you use self leveling Dicor on the panels? Where did you connect the output of your solar system to be able to charge the batteries? And how did you get it there ( path from roof )?
Do you charge your truck battery with the solar? If yes, do you use the Trik-L-Start device?

We are new to RVing with MH. We trailered it for 19 years with electrical hookup. My immediate desire is to see if 200 watt solar system could be used to keep all three batteries charged during summer and winter storage.  I got tired this winter of monitoring the batteries and starting the generater and engine to keep things charged.  Eventually I pulled them all and have them on a charger. We have outdoor storage so I also out there pulling snow off the roof too.

Ron Sarzynski

Thanks

Ron Sarzynski

Ron, yes on the Dicor.   As to the cable routing, I got lazy.  I was leaving on a trip and short of time when I installed the first panel so I just made a "temporary" connection.   I ran the solar cable over to the edge of the PC just above the back edge of the awning and ran the wire over the side and down the back side of the support channel for the awning.   I covered it with black Gorilla Duct Tape and since on my PC the color of that channel is black it is almost unnoticeable.   Then, I ran it under the PC and along the frame to the battery box and entered the battery box from there.   I built a mounting plate for the controller in the front of the battery box and wires from the controller direct to the battery terminals.   I suspended the cable to the frame with zip strips.    When dry camped, I just open the battery box compartment and engage the controller by way of an on/off switch I installed.   By the way, I used Dicor to "glue" the cable to the top of the rig.  I put about a three inch strip of Dicor around the cable every fifteen inches or so and it really holds it down.  I inspect the roof frequently and nothing has ever shifted or come loose in any fashion. 

It sounds awful but believe it or not it is virtually unnoticeable.  I would sent photos except the rig is in storage.   

NOW, I had planned to do the job more appropriately by running the cable down thru the back panel on the PC and fishing it down but I was leaving for several weeks.   My temporary has been temporary for three years now, of course 
I have promised myself to do the fishing job down the back shell this spring.   In the meantime, I can enjoy solar.

For the portable panel, I bolted an exterior electric box (like would contain a receptacle) under the rear similar to how the tow receptacle is attached and placed.   I spliced into the primary solar cables under the truck and put a solar connection in the receptacle box.   I have fifty feet of cable on the portable solar panel and I simply plug it into the receptacle and then more it wherever I want within that fifty foot radius of the receptacle. 

No, do not power the chassis battery with the solar:  coach batteries only.   I store the PC in an enclosed garage storage facility so no sunlight is available.   Once a month on a pretty day I get it out of storage, fire up the generator, put it under load of the heat strips in AC unit, drive up  I-35 (our storage is just a half mile from the intersate) for 30 miles to a town that has a good burger joint, go in for lunch and leave the generator running under load while I am there.   Our winters here are such that it is most unusual if we don't have a nice day or two at least every few weeks.   For example, it was mid 60s here this afternoon.   If our winters were more severe and demanding I would have to modify my technique.

Doneworking,
Years (and years) back there was a heat issue with the flat panels. Solar panels generate a LOT of heat. At least one house actually caught fire from the heat of the panels. They also experienced degradation of the roofing materials and insulation below the panels. I know times have changed and things have improved but solar panels are still hot.

Do you notice extra heat in the rig when the panels are in full sun?
Have you ever put your hand on your inside ceiling to see if the heat is radiating through?
Has there been any damage or excessive drying of the roof components next to the panels?
Any downside you've noticed that should be considered? (As a friend says "everything is a trade off")

Re. Flex panels

Will Prowse has a lot of videos about solar. He recently did one on flex panels and has said the downside is that the measured output drops significantly over time.

Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBUat-Drilw

2Frazzled, I am sorry that I missed seeing your post earlier a couple up about the flex panels.   

Yes, I too had read about the panels and heat.   It has not been a problem for me so far.  I took a infrared digital thermometer up on the roof and measured in full sun and really didn't detect a significant difference between the rest of the PC roof and the panels.   I could detect no heat inside the coach immediately below the panels.  There has been no change in the roof that I can observe and I check it out pretty carefully, particularly when I wash the roof a couple of times a year.   When traveling, I will also sometimes go up there and wipe down the panels with a damp cloth to clean them from dust and rain, etc.

Finally, no, I can't discern any problem I have experienced.  BUT, let me tell you two factors that would come into play in how we use our PC.   One, it is used about two months total in a year.  Two, when not in use it is stored in a completely enclosed garage which is totally dark with no sky lights, etc.    So, the panels are exposed only about 1/6th of the year during daylight only.   I have no idea the consequences of continual use/exposure.    All I know is it works for me.   

I have detected no voltage or amperage deterioration in either panel since I installed them several years ago.   Now, I handled that flex panel very carefully and only flexed it crosswise on the roof for installation.  I didn't try to see how "flexible" its limits were and I handled it carefully.   On a house, of course, you would have 365 days of exposure to a house and the elements and if your RV was stored outside I guess the same would apply. 

Like I said, all I know is it works for me and it is working better than I expected.   

Finally, I would add that I think a small dc wind generator is an interesting thought for charging the batteries.  I actually saw a couple full timing in a Roadtrek Class B 190 (the middle size RT on a Chevy chassis, about 20 feet long and no wider than the original unmodified van).
They had a small wind generator on an extension pole and a couple of solar panels.   The guy had designed it himself and was a retired professor  from one of the major state universities.   Engineer? I inquired.   Nope, taught philosophy.    Go figure.    He loved his wind generator and said they never lacked for power in their full time use.   I guess where there is a will there is a way.   His Roadtrek had stuff hanging all over it!!

Paul           

There are a lot of 12V wind generator options out there.  Just Google "12v wind generator".