Anyone with Vittrifigo refer?

Ok, found it:

On my DE0061 the draw is a measured 3amps.  Measured over 10 days with nights in the 60's and days in the 90's.  I think the peak draw is 5 amps but duty cycle is less than that.

So the average draw is 3 amps per hour or 36 amps over a 12 hour period.  For us with the solar panels that is easily replaced during any reasonably sunny day.

The $3000 figure was posted above, I have not priced them myself. The one compressor unit I have looked into  is around $1600.

Can get the Nova-Kool for around $1500 I think.

Our boat Nova-Kool ran an average of 2.8 (DC) amps for 24 hours.  5 amps at start up, then settled at 3.5 amps running. A constant 20 minutes on 15 minutes off during hot summer months.  15 minutes on and 20 minutes off during shoulder seasons.

Did not have a gen set or solar.  Just a "smart Alternator" on engine and 700 amps of 6V batteries.  Cruising Boats love extra weight, they ride better. 

They also put the outlet that supplies 120volt to the refrigerator on the inverter circuit.  Which means it never runs on DC but rather through the inverter.  Which is not the way it's supposed to work.  I re-wired things to move that outlet off the inverter and it now works correctly.

Jatrax could you elaborate some on this issue? I almost have to assume there is no manual switch on the refer to go between 12v and 120v? I know on our portable compressor refer you can not have both plug wires(12v and 120) plugged into the refer at the same time.
Thanks,
Doug

For those who are interested in my Residential refrig, Here is a typical unit by Danby. I don't have the model # of mine at present as I'm not close to the motorhome.
The watts used by this unit that I have is 79 watts. The price of the absorption refrig to replace my Danby was quoted to me by the dealer. And that was without installation. Thinking one could buy refrig such as that cheaper somewhere else. But that was the quote I got. Installation was another 1500 because they would have to cut hole in side for venting, ETC.

https://www.compactappliance.com/danby-7-3-cu-ft-energy-star-apartment-refrigerator/DPF073C1B.htmlen

Hope this helps.

Denny and Barb

I almost have to assume there is no manual switch on the refer to go between 12v and 120v?

The DE0061 is plugged into a 120 volt receptacle and is wired directly to the 12 volt system of the coach.  There is no manual switch.  When it detects power on the 120 circuit it uses that, otherwise it runs off the 12 volt coach power. 

In my case they wired that outlet to the inverter, I assume because they thought it worked like a residential refrigerator and needed to be on the coach inverter.  So it used inverter power rather than coach 12 volt power.  I swapped the circuits around so that receptacle is no longer on the inverter and managed to put a different outlet that I wanted on the inverter on it instead.  Win win.

Jatrax, thanks, good to know. I assumed you could select power options with a switch. I guess thats one good thing about this absorption refer.
Doug

I assumed you could select power options with a switch.

While not as elegant as a switch on the refrigerator it would be quite easy to install a switch on the 120v receptacle.  That could be done either at the panel box (though all receptacles on that circuit would be affected) or at the refrigerator itself by bringing out a switch leg to the cabinet face.

Turning OFF the 120v power makes the refrigerator switch automatically to 12 volt power.  In real world use I'm not sure I see any advantage to having a switch.  The normal use case would be exactly the way it works normally: 120 if available and 12 if 120 is not available.  On an absorption unit there is a clear advantage to being able to select the power source under some situations.

I completely agree with your assessment on the switch. In our case we rarely have our inverter on, so most of the time it would run on 12v. I do wonder if we could get by having the Microwave/ oven and refer start up at the same time though.
Doug

I do wonder if we could get by having the Microwave/ oven and refer start up at the same time though.

I do not think that should be an issue as the refrigerator is max 5amps and does not have any noticeable 'surge' when starting.  But I'm on a 50 amp coach so I never even think about things like that.

On a 30amp coach I still think it would be no problem.  I know air conditioner / microwave at the same time is potentially an issue but the DE0061 just does not use that much power.

The Danby 110V fridge now being used by WBGO in their Fuse models is a 4.7 CF model DCR047A1BBSL.  The online retail price is as low as $235.  It is run through a 1000W inverter 100% of the time.  The AC amp draw is 1.3 amps which translates to 14 amps DC using a 85% efficient inverter.  However if you use the national energy star rating for it (333 KWH yearly consumption).......the draw is only 3.8-4.0 DC amps??  The Fuse comes standard with a Zamp 200 watt solar system.  In theory it sounds doable.
Probably not the most user friendly or efficient way of doing things.  The Fuse only uses group 24 batteries.  I would guess that the life cycle would be reduced substantially.  The plus side for WBGO is they save $1000 over a compressor or even good absorption fridge.  Its basically a throw away fridge.  They do not repair or replace anything, just pop a new one in.  The downside is the yet unknown wear and tear on the inverter and batteries running on 110V off the inverter and house bank all the time.

The Danby 110V fridge now being used by WBGO in their Fuse models is a 4.7 CF model DCR047A1BBSL.  The online retail price is as low as $235.  It is run through a 1000W inverter 100% of the time.  The AC amp draw is 1.3 amps which translates to 14 amps DC using a 85% efficient inverter.  However if you use the national energy star rating for it (333 KWH yearly consumption).......the draw is only 3.8-4.0 DC amps??  The Fuse comes standard with a Zamp 200 watt solar system.  In theory it sounds doable.
Probably not the most user friendly or efficient way of doing things.  The Fuse only uses group 24 batteries.  I would guess that the life cycle would be reduced substantially.  The plus side for WBGO is they save $1000 over a compressor or even good absorption fridge.  Its basically a throw away fridge.  They do not repair or replace anything, just pop a new one in.  The downside is the yet unknown wear and tear on the inverter and batteries running on 110V off the inverter and house bank all the time.

This system should work very well. Yes, (look at my posting above). I fought WBGO to please install absorption refrig in my Intent. But dealer could not legally do that. Had to be a farmed out situation, to a Camping World or such. So I kept the Danby. Am so far very happy with this arrangement.  I use 4  grp28 batteries and 800 watts solar. (I know this is kind of an overkill of 80, but my summer camping in the "tree" canopy of Wisconsin, I need all the help I can get!)
And since I'm an electrical engineer, people, people, please don't be concerned with duty cycle of an "inverter". My 1000 watt inverter is just playing with the 79 watts my Danby refrig requires.  And your batteries... ???  Not a concern ether, if you have any solar power (watts) mounted on your roof. Batteries need to be exercised  and groomed. That means your "solar charge controller" AND, your "coach" Converter should be at the 4 stage variety. If it is not, the longevity of your  batteries are probably shortened. r
Again,
Just my 2 cents worth.

Denny and Barb

This is all interesting reading. I appreciate all the feedback. Like most of us, we start researching on the interweb, read it all, scratch our heads,then flip a coin....

One post on a marine review caught my attention though. Something like this,, if you have AC, you have DC, why worry about the option to power your refer on AC? With a good battery bank, and good solar, I'm beginning to think if I replace my current refer I'll just wire it for DC and not worry about AC. Although it would be simple to install an AC switch.

I was not clear about the start up requirements of the microwave/oven and refer together on shore/gen power. I was curious to know if they could start up together on the inverter. I'm obviously electrically challenged.... to say the least.

Nice boat Hutch,, I always wanted to retire in one like yours and get back to SE AK. But the wife gets seasick..!!

Doug

BIGLEGMAX

Nordic Tugs are like Phoenix Cruisers.  Small companies, semi custom builds, quality material and workmanship  Nordic only builds about 25 a year these days. In the heydays of the of the late 90's early 20's they were putting out about 40-50 a year.  Tough to compete with the off shore builders in terms of cost.  This one was my second Nordic, a 33' owned it for 14 years.  Sold it last year.  Never made it to SE, Bella Bella BC about as far north as we went.

I also get confused as to what power (AC or DC) is best to run a compressor fridge.  Our Nova-Kool ran on both. It was not wired directly to the house bank, but through the DC/AC Panels and switch's.  If both AC & DC switches were on it would switch to AC if you were plugged in, and back to DC when unplugged.  Never noticed a performance difference on either mode. Never had solar or gen set.  We had a honking big 720 amp house bank, smart alternator, and Xantrex charger/inverter.  Only time we had a need for inverter was when my wife wanted to dry her hair.  I have very little, so no problem.  Everything else ran of either DC, Propane, or Diesel.

Hutch,
I have been away from boats a long time, but I do know the Nordic brand. I can't believe you mentioned Bella Bella, that was our last stop, on our last trip south. We were totally burned out after a long season, my partner says" lets spend the last night in Bella Bella", I had no idea what to expect... not much really, just a great hot spring in the bay, and peace, and maybe a vodka, I hope you enjoyed the hot springs too.

Every time I question RV's, I go back to marine use. The wheel does not have to be reinvented, the directions are posted, I only wish they would be read, and followed.

Doug