Vinyl Graphics

Hello, this past April we got our 2004 2350. We love it!

It’s in fantastic condition other than the graphics which are showing their age. I’ve tried cleaning them up and it definitely helped but they are just cracked and faded.

So my question is has anyone replaced their graphics?  Any recommended sources that I should investigate to replace them would be much appreciated.


John

My graphics are showing their age, too.  I think some previous owner must have kept it outside for a while, because they're worse on the left than the right.  When I got back from our last trip, I was giving the coach a good wash and wax, and I tried pulling on the edge of the worst one, that was flaking around the edges.  It peeled right off.  So I went ahead and peeled off the whole thing and it's actually a big improvement.  With all the other swirly graphics, you hardly even notice that one missing without looking really close.  I wish there was a shop I could take it to, to restore the finish and replace the faded graphics.  The fiberglass is actually in good shape, and it would look like a new coach with a little work.  But it's beyond my capabilities.  Odd that there is not someone who specializes in this, but I couldn't find anything in the Houston area.

TNcanuck- Phoenix  used a lightweight vinyl material that comes off fairly easily with a 3M stripe remover wheel. I  did a small test area on the back and decided it was not something that  I should do myself, but two 3M wheels will do a 2350. The body shop charged 16 hrs labor.


I went with custom painted stripes because I don't have an  indoor storage and don't want to be doing it  again in 5 years.  The original graphics were identical to your 04, which Carol told me are N/A. If you search online  there's a company in Arizona that claims to be able to reproduce any vinyl rv graphics .








Before

Thanks for the replies.  I like your painted stripes. Nice and clean looking design. I don’t really care if I have all the swirling graphics or not so your painted design now has me thinking.  Our PC is also stored outside so painted graphics makes a lot of sense.

I have not contacted Phoenix about the graphic because I figured they would not have a 14 year old graphic package available anyway. Also I assumed they would be much too expensive even if they did have one. In fact I asked them about just replacing the Phoenix Cruiser text above the cab and was told it would be $85. That’s outrageous. I had my own made for $15. Now I just need to install it!

Thanks for the replies.  I like your painted stripes. Nice and clean looking design. I don’t really care if I have all the swirling graphics or not so your painted design now has me thinking.  Our PC is also stored outside so painted graphics makes a lot of sense.

I have not contacted Phoenix about the graphic because I figured they would not have a 14 year old graphic package available anyway. Also I assumed they would be much too expensive even if they did have one. In fact I asked them about just replacing the Phoenix Cruiser text above the cab and was told it would be $85. That’s outrageous. I had my own made for $15. Now I just need to install it!

Ditto here CalCruiser!  That paint job makes the coach look sweet.

@TNcanuk- We are looking at repainting our 2006, and I wanted to replace the PC logo's also.  I found the font   'Clarendon Blk BT' (italics) was really close. What did you use?

Here is a quick MS paint mockup of what we are headed towards. I am going to look closer at buffing off the stripes on the coach now.  Hope PC doesnt mind the other PC! 

Volkemon,

I ended up using Century Schoolbook bold italic. It’s close enough!

Thanks for the compliments

If you are going to attempt  DIY stripe removal be very careful with the 3M wheel. If you keep it in  one place too long it will burn the gelcoat yellow. The trick is to keep moving.

Before committing to the makeover project and chosing a shop check out actual examples of their work, both finished and  in-progress, not just some nice pictures on  a pretty website, and most importantly talk with the painter, not just the shop owner. Most auto body shops don't even have space for a motorhome or a big enough paint booth, so there aren't a lot of options.

There will be some ghosting due to fading where the swirls were.  Replicating the old style asymmetrical swirl  graphics on the 2350 is nearly impossible, especially on the drivers side. I left off the top stripe because the body shop wanted   too much  extra $$$ for painting from a ladder.  Fortunately my 2350 never had the PC logo graphics anyway.

I found several  rv shops that  specialize in removing old vinyl and replacing it  with contemporary   swoosh look vinyl  graphics,  but the cost difference was only $1k, and nearly all the rv's  with vinyl graphics at my  outdoor storage lot show some degree of weathering.

Still though, if Phoenix had replacements available I might have chosen that option for simplicity.  Be thankful that they used a thin vinyl that comes off easily, compared to the thick kind that fades and cracks too but also  becomes baked on over time.

Great advice. Thanks so much. Our RV spent its life in Arizona so the graphics are definitely baked on!  They are faded, cracked and wearing away.  It’s really the graphics that make our rig look old. The fiberglass is in decent shape. So that’s my motivation for replacing the graphics. It will make the rig look new again.

Have any of you looked into removing all graphics and paint their entire PC one or two colors?

I had wondered if a full body plain white paint job, selected to reflect heat and reduce fade, was a viable approach for a sun beaten PC that will continue to get sun beaten.

Ron,

I have not yet looked at pricing a full paint job.  It’s definitely worth checking out because it would also address dull and worn gel coat. I also want to find out what a full wrap would cost but that’s my least favorite option because I’m concerned about the longevity of it.  Our PC is stored outside and I don’t know for sure but I think a wrap won’t last very long.

Phoenix used a lightweight vinyl material that comes off fairly easily with a 3M stripe remover wheel. I  did a small test area on the back and decided it was not something that  I should do myself, but two 3M wheels will do a 2350. The body shop charged 16 hrs labor.

Really like the stripe!

Not sure if the eraser wheel is really necessary, though.  Seriously, those vinyl graphics just peel right off.  I had to use a razor blade in places to pick up enough edge to grab, but then it just peeled off in huge chunks.  The only downside was that if you look close you can see where the gelcoat has yellowed a bit where it wasn't covered by the graphic.  Did your paint shop do something to correct that?  Maybe the eraser wheel blends it?

After seeing your stripe, I'm about ready to strip all my graphics and find a paint shop!  How much did it set you back?

Quote from: CalCruiser on July 27, 2018, 05:34:09 pm

Phoenix used a lightweight vinyl material that comes off fairly easily with a 3M stripe remover wheel. I  did a small test area on the back and decided it was not something that  I should do myself, but two 3M wheels will do a 2350. The body shop charged 16 hrs labor.

Really like the stripe!

Not sure if the eraser wheel is really necessary, though.  Seriously, those vinyl graphics just peel right off.  I had to use a razor blade in places to pick up enough edge to grab, but then it just peeled off in huge chunks.  The only downside was that if you look close you can see where the gelcoat has yellowed a bit where it wasn't covered by the graphic.  Did your paint shop do something to correct that?  Maybe the eraser wheel blends it?

After seeing your stripe, I'm about ready to strip all my graphics and find a paint shop!  How much did it set you back?

Thanks BlueBlaze 

The ghosting/ fading doesn't buff out. I uploaded some before shots of the original early style  Phoenix Cruiser graphics. With the 2006-2018 swoosh style graphics you will need to be creative to cover over the fading left by the freeform shapes.  Also be aware that the clear coat has to be done correctly or it can cause peeling, so anything more than a  simple horizontal stripe pattern will require a lot more paint work. Have you asked Carol if the current style vinyl graphics are available? It sounds like you might be able to DIY with just a heat gun and a plastic razor blade, adhesive remover, and a 3M wheel for the tough spots.

The body  shop charged $4k including 16 hrs labor to remove the old vinyl and  adhesive.
I shopped 5 different estimates, ranging from  $3800-$7000. The highest 2 were shops with huge paint booths that specialized  in  Class A motorhomes  and commercial trucks. Paint and body work  in the socialist California republic is ridiculously expensive thanks to our wonderful Cal EPA and Cal Air Resources Board, plus Cal OSHA, high rent & taxes, wages, etc. Just removing the old vinyl and replacing it with custom cut vinyl graphics was going to cost $3k.

I'm doing a complete restore and just got done buffing the oxidation off my 2005 2350. I used Meguiar's M4965 Marine/RV Fiberglass Restoration Kit. All the roof plastic, marker lights, rain spouts, awning caps and rear lighting had major sun damage and I replaced them. But most of the graphics, except the front cap were OK. I used a heat gun and razor to remove the front cab graphics. I tried 3M adhesive remover but found out the heat gun and razor did a better job of removing the glue that remained after the letters were lifted off.

After I removed those graphic there was a ghosting mark. I went over it 3 times with the Meguiar's oxidation remover using a variable speed polisher and the ghosting was gone. I applied polish and then wax. The plain white front cap ended up looking so good that I decided not to replace the graphics..I treated the body graphics the same way I did the fiberglass, appling the oxidation remover and working it in all with the polisher. I applied the polish and wax by hand, removing it by hand and then machine polished it out. I kept the polisher on a low speed and was careful to keep it constantly moving.

It took me 3 whole days to recondition the outside. My wife says the outside used to look like it was yellowish antique white. Now it is a pure bright white. I also remove all the old caulking and replaced it. I pulled off all the exterior door and window seals and replaced them. I updated the TV system to HD, added a TPMS, put on new hub caps, added several DC USB charging ports and added storage racks to the closets. After 3 months I'm finally done and it's ready for the road.

I'm doing a complete restore and just got done buffing the oxidation off my 2005 2350. I used Meguiar's M4965 Marine/RV Fiberglass Restoration Kit. All the roof plastic, marker lights, rain spouts, awning caps and rear lighting had major sun damage and I replaced them. But most of the graphics, except the front cap were OK. I used a heat gun and razor to remove the front cab graphics. I tried 3M adhesive remover but found out the heat gun and razor did a better job of removing the glue that remained after the letters were lifted off.

After I removed those graphic there was a ghosting mark. I went over it 3 times with the Meguiar's oxidation remover using a variable speed polisher and the ghosting was gone. I applied polish and then wax. The plain white front cap ended up looking so good that I decided not to replace the graphics..I treated the body graphics the same way I did the fiberglass, appling the oxidation remover and working it in all with the polisher. I applied the polish and wax by hand, removing it by hand and then machine polished it out. I kept the polisher on a low speed and was careful to keep it constantly moving.

It took me 3 whole days to recondition the outside. My wife says the outside used to look like it was yellowish antique white. Now it is a pure bright white. I also remove all the old caulking and replaced it. I pulled off all the exterior door and window seals and replaced them. I updated the TV system to HD, added a TPMS, put on new hub caps, added several DC USB charging ports and added storage racks to the closets. After 3 months I'm finally done and it's ready for the road.

Good for you!

I enjoyed reading your story.  As the years roll by, I hope to read more like yours.

BLUEBLAZE

If your in the Houston area there must be some good boat detailers around.  Wont help your graphics, but they do wonders (the good ones) on Gel coat.  Either by commercial compounds or wet sanding,  The salt air is murder on Gel coat...especially colored Gel coat.  My boat hull was a faded blue and the pilot house was chalky and all oxidized.
Attached is a picture after the 5 day $2500 treatment.  Just got to keep in waxed now.  Boat is 33' long, and about 8' high to give you an idea of cost per foot.