Electric termination valves

Does either grey or black electric termination valve need to be opened before using either grey or black manual valve or do the two operate independently of each other?
We were advised at the factory that the manual system should be used on a limited basis only.
We’ve already experienced a termination valve failure and are considering using the manual valves exclusively if feasible.
Any insights would be appreciated.
Greg and Jan

The two electric valves are independent of each other and anything can be opened in any order but the recommendation is to dump black first followed by a rinse of grey water.

The two electric valves are independent of each other and anything can be opened in any order but the recommendation is to dump black first followed by a rinse of grey water.

We understand that the electric valves are independent from each other...our question was do they have to be opened to use the manual valves?  The manual gate valves are independent from the macerator.  As our post explained, we are considering using manual valves exclusively.
Thanks for the reply
Greg and Jan

I don't like the idea of having electric dump valves, I think it's totally unnecessary, it's just on more thing that will fail sometime down the road.

  Lynn

We understand that the electric valves are independent from each other...our question was do they have to be opened to use the manual valves?  The manual gate valves are independent from the macerator.  As our post explained, we are considering using manual valves exclusively.
Thanks for the reply
Greg and Jan

I have an old (2006) 2350, so things may have changed. On mine, it has the electric valves with a manual handle in case of electrical failure. The handle is moved by the servo if working, by hand if needed. There are not separate electric valves and manual valves, but one valve with two options. I sorta like the electric, especially with the manual 'override' should they fail.

  at least thats how I was told they work... going to look a bit closer before depending on that.    I will edit this post here if things are different.

On my system the electric valve on each tank is the only valve in the line.  There is the T handle in place for each valve.  I have never experienced a failure of the electric valve.  To manually operate one of the tanks, (NOT SURE WHICH ONE) one would have to crawl half way under the coach to access the T handle.  The waste water travels from both tanks to a common line that Tees, one to the Sanicon and the other to the slinky attachment point with its cap.  On this point, how does one override the electric valve?  It appears to manually open the valves would damage the electric system if it operating properly.  A better solution would be to repair/replace the electric valve.

Larry

Does either grey or black electric termination valve need to be opened before using either grey or black manual valve or do the two operate independently of each other?
We were advised at the factory that the manual system should be used on a limited basis only.
We’ve already experienced a termination valve failure and are considering using the manual valves exclusively if feasible.
Any insights would be appreciated.
Greg and Jan

The electric valves must be open.   It is NOT reccomended they be left open!   That will cause mixing of grey and black water.

Quote from: Funseekers on May 09, 2018, 04:33:58 pm

Does either grey or black electric termination valve need to be opened before using either grey or black manual valve or do the two operate independently of each other?
We were advised at the factory that the manual system should be used on a limited basis only.
We’ve already experienced a termination valve failure and are considering using the manual valves exclusively if feasible.
Any insights would be appreciated.
Greg and Jan

The electric valves must be open.   It is NOT reccomended they be left open!   That will cause mixing of grey and black water.

So the answer is...our two manual valves are not independent of the electric valves...right?
Our manual valves are easy to get to on our 2100, too bad. Phoenix paid to have the termination valve replaced....we were lucky it was still under warranty!
Greg and Jan

Right.....my concern would be possibly damaging the electric motor and or gearing if manually operating a perfectly working electric dump valve....does anyone know?

Does either grey or black electric termination valve need to be opened before using either grey or black manual valve or do the two operate independently of each other?
We were advised at the factory that the manual system should be used on a limited basis only.
We’ve already experienced a termination valve failure and are considering using the manual valves exclusively if feasible.
Any insights would be appreciated.
Greg and Jan

I seem to remember this is covered in one of Earl's videos relating to the SaniConn.

Barry T

Is running on gravel roads hard on the electric dump valves?

  Lynn

 To make a long  embarrassing story short on our previous PC  I inadvertently opened one of the electric valves manually, it was not easy either as there is a lot of resistance from the electric motor.   
That then left the gears out of sync so they would not fully open or close the gate valves.  Fortunately I was able to remove and disassemble  the gear box and realign the gears.
I believe if it  is necessary to manually open the valves the u-shaped connector on the threaded connecting rod from the t-handle can be turned and repositioned to allow manual opening.

To make a long  embarrassing story short on our previous PC  I inadvertently opened one of the electric valves manually, it was not easy either as there is a lot of resistance from the electric motor.   
That then left the gears out of sync so they would not fully open or close the gate valves.  Fortunately I was able to remove and disassemble  the gear box and realign the gears.
I believe if it  is necessary to manually open the valves the u-shaped connector on the threaded connecting rod from the t-handle can be turned and repositioned to allow manual opening.

  You just saved me a ton of trouble... I was ready to try the same thing. No paperwork on the valves with our old used coach, so I was just gonna try a 'pull' to see how manual worked.. 

'Neighborly' button clicked.

Just to clarify one thing, there are no separate electric or manual valves.  There is ONLY a set of manual valves that have an electric actuator attached to them.  If you want you can quite easily remove the electric actuator and the valve remains in place and will function manually.  

There is ALSO a single manual valve that is used with the 4" 'slinky' hose if you go that route.  I did not check completely but I believe in order to use the slinky you would open the large manual valve to by pass the macerator and then use the black and grey valves to dump the tanks.  This is all covered in one of Earl's videos I think.

I recently experienced a jam on my black tank valve that required me to disassemble the whole valve to clear the jam.  That's how I know how easy it is to take off the electric actuator.  

So bottom line:  if you hate the electric actuators they can be disconnected and the valves used manually.  However, (at least on my 2552) that will require crawling underneath the truck to open the black valve.  Personally I will just use the nice little electric buttons they gave us.  And if it breaks, I'll fix it.

Note that the only issue I have had was with the manual part of the valve, the electric part worked just fine.

Hi jatrax,

When removing the electric actuator portion, is there a "T" handle to move the valve manually?  Or do you require a pliers or other tool to move it manually?  It has been a number of years since I looked under our 11 year old PC during the open/close operation.  In my head I recall seeing a "T" handle moving, but I might have recalled it all wrong.  What has me a bit confused about the electro-mechanical tank valve, are the ones I find for sale on the internet.

Here is a typical mechanical tank valve with "T" handle.


Here is an electrically actuated tank valve without a "T" handle.


I did find what looks like an electronic actuator attached to a mechanical valve.
Do we have something like this?



About a 3rd valve.......
On our 11 year old PC, we have a manual gravity dump connection along with the Sani-Con system.  It is setup with one gray tank valve and one black tank valve.  We do not have a third tank valve, not electric, not mechanical.  We only have a gasketed end cap that the stinky slinky attaches via the typical 4-prong connector.