Login

1

General Discussion / Re: E-350 2350 brakes - especially rears

« on: July 27, 2021, 02:35:16 pm »

While getting ready to get our 2004 2350 ready for a week on the road next week, I was backing my 2004 2350 up onto blocks today and when I stepped on the brakes the rear tires kept rolling off the blocks and the front tires locked up and pulled the front blocks back with them.   

I'm thinking this is not a safe situation.  But it stops fine while driving.... but that's going forwards, of course.

Before I take it in to a shop and have the brakes bled (the brake pedal feels awfully soft as well) I thought I would ask others if there is anything special I need to look for, provided others have had similar issues.   It's on the E-350 chassis.

Edit: I have an appointment Monday morning for a mechanic to check it out.

The air in the lines may affect the rear brakes more than the front. The question is how did the air get in the lines? How old is the fluid? Best case is it's just old fluid and a flush and bleed will fix it. Have the pads been changed? Were they all the pads changed at the same time? Also possible you have a rear caliper leaking and it's getting onto the pads.

My PC (2004 E350) had a caliper sticking last spring. I replaced the one caliper and the pads on the one wheel. They brakes never felt right after that - pulsing and pulling. So I just finished replacing the other 3 calipers, all 4 rotors and the pads on all 4 wheels. Parts were around $400.

2

General Discussion / Re: PC wheelbases

« on: December 30, 2020, 02:01:16 pm »

...there must be a formula that tends to work best I guess. Looking at some RV's their formulas are not quite up to snuff I would think as they tend to be very long in the tail.

The formula is wheelbase to length according to RVCG (https://rv.org/blogs/news/short-wheelbases-and-accidents-go-hand-in-hand). "To get the wheelbase-to-length ratio of a motor home, simply divide the wheelbase by the length of the vehicle. Under 51% is extremely dangerous; 51% to 54% is dangerous under many road condition and not adequate for general safety; 55% to 56% is marginal; 57% and over is usually steady on the road under most conditions."

The wheelbase to length ratio on my 2004 PC is over 60%. The wheelbase to length ratio on my previous coach (2014 Winnebago 31KE class A) was 51% (also about 2' taller). After many modifications the handling on the Winnebago was improved to "not dangerous anymore". The 2004 PC doesn't need any mods to improve handling as it is already comfortably safe.

3

General Discussion / Re: Entry Door Blinds Replacement?

« on: December 06, 2020, 05:05:55 pm »

I was thinking of going this route (shade integrated into window assembly):  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRRNQNP/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

4

General Discussion / Re: Replacing the Sharp connection oven

« on: December 04, 2020, 07:29:53 pm »

Our oven died with a quiet whump a week or so before Thanksgiving. We have our new one in hand and are hoping for some guidance. Has anyone had to swap out the oven? (We have an email in to Phoenix but figure we're after hours there by now). Our rig is overrun with new oven, boxes and bits AND it's our day off so we were hoping to get this going today.

We THINK we need to:
- unplug oven from inside cabinet and feed cord back out to oven space (Can't be done until oven is lifted down. Space between side of oven and wall too narrow. Cord has to feed through three holes: cabinet side + two sides of divider wall. Power cord originates on top of oven. Phoenix shoves excess cord down between two wall pieces to keep excess out off cabinet. We've pulled it all into cabinet to make it easier to pull through as oven comes down.)
- remove stained wood trim board above oven - 2 screws (done)
- remove screws on metal bracket thing above oven (Thinking it is a Phoenix rigged set up to emulate upper cabinet and that oven is screwed to bottom of the bracket)
- remove mounting bolt from behind the grease guards (We only have one of these. Holes for two, one on each side)
- lift oven up off mounting plate then ease down while feeding cord through holes (it's Only 70 lbs - easy right?)

Is there anyone that can confirm this is the right procedure and we aren't going to either rip the oven off the wall or get stuck balancing it in the air while we unscrew something else?

I've had the Sharp microwave out a couple of times while attempting to fix the display (failed).  Sounds like yours may be installed differently though as mine is plugged into a receptacle that is in the same enclosure as the microwave. What I did was slide the microwave about halfway out, let it teter on the brink while holding it with one hand and unplugging it with the other hand. Fun Times 

It is heavy but I was able to lift it out and back in again all by myself (me: 5'-6" 120 lbs)

By the way my Sharp microwave is a model R-820BW (see photo). I'm probably going to have to replace it because of the bad display. What model is yours and what are you replacing it with?

5

General Discussion / Re: What size struts are under the bed?

« on: December 03, 2020, 05:29:46 pm »

I don't know if the struts on my 2010 2551 are factory or not.  There is one at each end, 60# 16" long.  They work fine with the 2" memory foam (heavy material) we added under the factory mattress, but are way too strong without the memory foam. In fact, the bed is hard to make and pops up on it's own without the heavy mattress pad. I would bet two 40's would do the job.
PS  I'd have put the block on straight...

The two 40# struts worked great. Now I have a great storage spot for my golf clubs.

Thanks!

6

General Discussion / Re: What size struts are under the bed?

« on: November 30, 2020, 01:27:47 pm »

Emcee.  I’ve looked at that site but haven’t found custom sizing charts. Am I missing it or is it a call in for quote?

That web site is a relic. You have to call (310-704-9055) to order since in addition to size you have to specify foam density, thickness etc. However, they are extremely helpful when ordering.

7

General Discussion / Re: What size struts are under the bed?

« on: November 24, 2020, 10:05:54 am »

I don't know if the struts on my 2010 2551 are factory or not.  There is one at each end, 60# 16" long.  They work fine with the 2" memory foam (heavy material) we added under the factory mattress, but are way too strong without the memory foam. In fact, the bed is hard to make and pops up on it's own without the heavy mattress pad. I would bet two 40's would do the job.
PS  I'd have put the block on straight...

Thanks - 40# 16" it is. We don't have memory foam so it should be fine. BTW we bought custom sized mattresses from militarysupplyhouse.com and they don't bottom out when sitting on them. Haven't actually slept on them yet but they really do seem like they will work.

8

General Discussion / What size struts are under the bed?

« on: November 22, 2020, 10:34:49 am »

I've read that newer models have struts installed to allow easier access to the storage under the bed. I would like to do that on the driver side twin (32 x 68) bed (I have golf clubs stored under there and it's really tricky to get them in and out of the trap door near the bathroom!).

So what size struts (extended length and force - printed on the strut?) did the factory use? On my PC the mattress is supported by 3/4" OSB which is pretty heavy (25 lbs?). Any info you could provide would improve on my usual method of doing all the math, install strut, then proceed to agonize over why the strut is too long/short/weak/strong 

9

General Discussion / Re: Maintenance to prevent leaks

« on: November 04, 2020, 04:42:20 pm »

And wallboard reinstall and new corner to hide the electrical.  The top is removable to allow leak checks.....and there will be NONE.

But you're going to check anyway!   

10

General Discussion / Re: Carpet is a Science Project

« on: November 04, 2020, 01:56:17 pm »

Interesting!

I once looked into the Ford Econoline E150/E250/E350 cargo van OEM insulated rubber cab floor covering, but had no luck finding a part number to order from a dealer.  I always thought that item would provide excellent insulation to address the hot floor and also offer a perfect fit and good finish for the front cab to eliminate soiled carpets that insulate very poorly.

If anyone knows the part number for that rubber insulated OEM floor covering, please share it.

Looks like the factory mold to me, even comes with jute padding to install.

https://www.stockinteriors.com/moldedvinyl.asp?Itemid=2506&MakeId=34&ModelId=218&year=2012&Price=0&gclid=CjwKCAiA-f78BRBbEiwATKRRBHConbFruJ3zfIBl1enrtQHYwPpzth6bcsaOmnwzuHXms_0ooPTAnBoCJ88QAvD_BwE

I just installed this product a few months ago. The good news is that it looks good and the extra heat and sound insulation should increase driving comfort. The bad news is that the pattern wasn't close to the factory pattern. Took lots and lots of trimming but luckily it wasn't too short so no gaps anywhere.

11

General Discussion / Source for grab handle by entry door.

« on: November 04, 2020, 01:37:19 pm »

The grab handle by the entry door was looking ugly. I considered sanding and painting. Then I found the exact replacement on amazon for less than $10. So if you have the same part (LPC #480) and it needs replacing here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074T1SB9G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

12

General Discussion / Re: "Peace be the Journey" damage pictures and repair thread.

« on: October 13, 2020, 09:16:58 am »

Emcee--Thank you for providing such welcome info for the rest of us!  (Thank you also to Peace be the Journey!). I have had a mystery leak for YEARS in the cab on the driver's side.  It causes the carpet under the brake pedal area to become wet, but even when raining heavily, it's nigh unto impossible to see where the drips are coming from.  No one has been able to find the source and, like you, I ripped out the carpet so that at least it could air out when it rained.  You mentioned a problem with a leaky grommet under the engine cowl.  I am mechanically inept and need a bit more explanation of what/where that would be.  Where do I look?  I am hoping this solves my long-running, frustrating mystery.
Thank you!
Carol

If you remove the driver side wiper cowl panel (see photo), and look through the hole (~4") in the stamped metal underneath (near the fender), you will see the oval grommet (~2,5" x 1.5") in the firewall that the windshield wiper motor wires pass through.

The grommet is pretty flimsy and a lot of water runs around it as it's draining off the windshield. I'm guessing that if it ever really stopped 100% of that water then it was only until about 5 minutes after the Ford warranty expired.

It's awkward to get to but what I did was put lots of dicor lap sealant all around it.

A hose test before and after proved that this was definitely the source of the leak and that the dicor stopped it.

13

General Discussion / Re: "Peace be the Journey" damage pictures and repair thread.

« on: October 12, 2020, 04:18:54 pm »

Looks nice.  When you are done, want to run over to my house?

Lol - It would have been done a month ago but for the seats that were ordered in June. BTW I'm also in Virginia (Winchester).

14

General Discussion / Re: "Peace be the Journey" damage pictures and repair thread.

« on: October 12, 2020, 01:31:46 pm »

I'm rehabbing a 2004 that has the same issue as the OP's coach. Leaks in the vertical seam between the fiberglass transition piece and the coach wall. The best you can do is to be very diligent in maintaining these joints as there's no way to inspect on the inside without removing the wall panels over the transition pieces. Also had leaks from the marker lights and a grommet under the engine cowl (these leaks ended up on the driver side foot area which is one of the reasons why there is now no carpet in the cab), the water heater (also caused hidden floor water damage) and the emergency egress window (caused by a modification).

15

General Discussion / Re: Maintenance to prevent leaks

« on: October 11, 2020, 01:25:09 pm »

Found those same vertical joint leaks in my 2004 2550. Looks like the design didn't change. The previous owner finally noticed the leaks when the fabric on the wall panels covering the transition piece showed water stains. Lots of severe damage to floor. It's a problem because there's no way to inspect the joint with the wall panels in place. It's also a problem since the caulk under the exterior vertical trim is the only thing stopping the water from leaking in. I caulked both inside and outside while I had the pieces removed. Linked photos show the damaged wall panels and the vertical joint with the caulk removed.

https://imgur.com/a/gG21tKj