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Messages - Tom B

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1
One thing I did on my 2552 was to adjustable add shelving in both wardrobe closets located above the foot of each bed...the bathroom wardrobe closet has plenty of space, plus the shelves can always be removed if you need more hanging space.

Also, request a Progressive Dynamics power center vs. Parallax.

Also, make sure they are using to “updated” cabinet/door latches....
Good Luck!
Tom

2
 Keelhauler - the batteries (standard lead acid) were new a month ago and we had just gotten back from a long trip, so the batteries were fully charged. I was mainly just che king that I was getting charge to my batteries, through the charger/converter, while on shore power... which is the issue I was trying to resolve.

Still, while in storage I plan to have the coach power off...and use my Optimate charger.
Thanks,
Tom

3
He is an electronics guy, and his business (Best Converters) sells these sorts of things...and that was his opinion.

Also, RV forums such as this one and Airstream do not seem to have a very positive view on Parallax...my coach is a 2018. And, input on Best Converters was positive. My understanding is that PC has moved away from Paralllax...
Tom

4
Based on Randy’s input from Best Converters I went with Boondocker charger/converter...although he sells Parallax, he didn’t recommend it! The Parallax would have been a like for like swap out...the Boondocker was NOT.

I have completed the swap-out to the Boondocker BD-1260-HW and all works fine...13.8v output to the batteries.

For those who want the gory details -
Going into this I figured there were several reasons for gutting out the existing Parallax charger/converter chassis and mounting the New Boondocker in there,
1) the existing Parallax chassis mounts directly in the Parallax distribution panel, AC power/breakers on top and converter/charger on the bottom.
2) I could reuse the fuses mounted in the chassis for the DC output (although a demo YouTube shows the Boondocker DC out with fuses...the current model supplied does not!)
3) the existing DC output fuse board bolts onto the front face of the chassis
4) the power unit cover grill, the power units finished cover, mounts on a couple of holes on the bottom of the chassis.

So on the “Best Converter” web page they show a YouTube where a guy is replacing a Parallax charger/converter with a Boondocker, and there are some photos below that where is looks like someone mounted the Boondocker on the floor underneath, and cut pit the front of the chassis and screwed it to the top of the bottom trim board.

First, unplug AC (shore) power, and disconnect the batteries.
Second, remove front panels for the top AC breakers and the bottom charger/converter, and the power unit grill.
Third, disconnect wiring (AC and DC side and unbolt the DC fuse panel and swing it aside.
Fourth, remove Parallax charger/converter and gut the chassis out...drill out the four rivets on top, remove top cover and remove all components. BUT keep the DC output fuses to the fuse board as the new Boondocker does not come with a fuse block as the YouTube video shows.
Fifth, drop in the new Boondocker into the chassis, but it doesn’t quite fit as the YouTube shows...so had to notch out the top flanges of the chassis in order to get it to fit in.
Six, drill a couple of holes in the bottom of the chassis, toward the back to allow for the fuse block in font, and mount Boondocker to the base with sheet metal screws.
Seven, add wire length as needed to reach termination points and wire the common DC output wire through the existing fuse block.
Eight, screw the chassis top back on with sheet metal screws into the existing rivet holes...except, unlike the YouTube, the new Boondocker sits 1/4” higher than the existing Parallax so I had to add 3/8” spacers...so the top cover on the chassis sits just above the Boondocker.
Nine, slide the converter/charger chassis back in place, fish wiring through, and screw it in with the four mounting screws.
Ten, mount DC fuse board and terminate wires and mount AC chassis front panel.
Eleven, mount power units front grill.

Think that’s about it...cant seem to get pics to work, too much data?
Tom

5
General Discussion / Re: House Batteries Not Charging...on Shore Power
« on: April 26, 2019, 09:50:59 am »
Talked to Randy at Best Converters, has Parallax and Boondockers listed for sale on his web site. I went through my situation with him and asked which way to go, he said he wouldn't sell me a Parallax...nuf said!
Tom

6
General Discussion / Re: House Batteries Not Charging...on Shore Power
« on: April 24, 2019, 09:29:04 am »
Actually the Progressive Dynamics PD9245CV converter will not work in my application - my existing Parallex 5355 is a 55amp rated output unit and the Progressive Dynamics PD9245CV is a 45amp output rated unit. I called them and he didn’t think that their 60amp unit would fit in that space. I’ll have to look at the dimensions for the complete power unit?
Tom

7
General Discussion / Re: House Batteries Not Charging...on Shore Power
« on: April 23, 2019, 06:04:37 pm »
On The Parallax web site, archived documents link, I found a troubleshooting diagnostic flow chart...and the charger/converter is shot. As Blueblaze suggested I’ll probably go with the Progressive Dynamics charger/converter...but as Mikeh suggested, I’ll look into the whole unit as well.
Thanks,

8
General Discussion / Re: House Batteries Not Charging...on Shore Power
« on: April 14, 2019, 10:55:38 am »
So, yes the microwave works while on either shore power or generator. All of the AC outlets worked on shore power as well.

Off grid now for a day and battery voltage is at 11.9v this morning, checked with a volt meter. Battery "status" light is at 1/3. This is a bit interesting as the batteries were fully charged after a three hour drive here and all that ran last night was the furnace fan (fridge and HW are on propane), a couple of LED lights, and a cooling fan (converter?) that occasionally comes on.

Anyway, ran the generator and and the voltage reading across the batteries was only 11.9v as well? So ran the truck and the voltage across the batteries was 13.1v. As Mike pointed out the truck charges the batteries directly...I did crawl under the coach and there are two sets of cables under the connected together on a buss, and then one set of cables out to the batteries. This time I checked the generator charge voltage first, before running the truck, and it does not seem to be charging either.

Regarding storage and the cooked batteries,  I can't say for sure if the converter was charging the batteries during the time in storage, I did not take any voltage readings until I found them dead.  I bought the rig used a few months prior, did not take any voltage readings prior to storage as I never suspected a problem? For all I know the batteries and/or converter were shot when I bought it???

So looks like I may have an issue with the converter. As Mike suggests the next time I am on shore power I'll check the voltage across the batteries while on shore power and then off.

Also, assuming the converter is faulty, any input on a more reliable set up would be appreciated?
Thanks,
Tom

9
General Discussion / Re: House Batteries Not Charging...on Shore Power
« on: April 13, 2019, 09:16:58 pm »
Thanks,
The rig is a 2018 model, but was built in Sep 2017 so out of warrenty I am sure.

Regarding a potential damaged TempAssure thermal couple/RTD and/or Installation issue the batteries charge fine on generator or truck altinator...TempAssure is in play in each scenario.

We bought this rig late last summer and to be honest I can't say for sure if all was OK last year on the two week trip around Lake Superior, as we were a day or two at each stop and on/off shore power. This current trip we happen to be on a four night stay, on shore power.

Am in s South West now, maybe I can stop by Elkhart on the way home to Verify that the transfer switch and converter are working as they should.
Tom,

10
General Discussion / House Batteries Not Charging...on Shore Power
« on: April 12, 2019, 09:57:18 pm »
OK, me again...
Put new house batteries and TempAssure board in my converter before leaving on my current trip...after cooking the batteries while in storage last winter.

Have been on and off shore power for a day or two at a time as we are traveling depending where we are staying.

Currently on day four at a location and noticed the house Batteries are very low, one light lit on the tank/propane/battery status panel. Checked the batteries with a volt meter and they are indeed low...11.9v.

Now, after unplugging from shore power and running the truck altinator or the generator, the house batteries charge as indicated by the status panel and also TempAssure plug lights up green which indicates that the batteries are charging.

So, not sure what is going on?
Tom

11
General Discussion / Re: Any full timers out there? Or long timers?
« on: April 01, 2019, 10:38:55 pm »
We own a 2018 model 2552, the cabinet latches have not gotten better...replaced a half dozen on a two week trip last year and four so far a week into our first trip this year. Along with the screen door latch and the pull out couch foot rest cable twice now.

Having said that I think the basic "bones" of the unit is good, just seems that these sorts of things happen with RV's? Not sure how this stuff would hold up to full time use???
Tom

12
General Discussion / Re: Dead Batteries - Storage
« on: March 22, 2019, 12:33:34 pm »
Batteries replaced, and TempAssure module installed today.

13
General Discussion / Re: Dead Batteries - Storage
« on: March 20, 2019, 06:45:30 pm »
TNcanuck,  I am curious what might be tripping the GFI breaker when he plugs up at home.  Thank you for your explicit explanation on the electrical system as well.  Since he is leaving on a trip soon, if the pedestal breaker trips, it might make for not a fun time.
Thanks for asking. I have no issues plugged into 30amp breakers at campgrounds. Went on a couple of weekends trips and a two week trip around Lake Superior late last summer and early fall and had no issues.

This issue is when plugging into a 29amp GFI in my garage...the breaker in the coach to the left of the main labeled “Inverter Power” is what is tripping it, when I shut this one off I can plug into my garage. This is sort of why I thought that was the proble, I assumed the XM 1800 inverter was a dual purpose charging and inverter unit?
Tom

14
General Discussion / Re: Dead Batteries - Storage
« on: March 20, 2019, 09:14:52 am »
Tom, for what it's worth---after careful review a couple of times now of the Parallax site and their line of converter-chargers (the first time was when I was trying to determine what would go in my own unit), I believe the Parallax units are good and well-designed converter-chargers for RV applications.  I just don't think they should be used in a flooded-cell battery application without installing the TempAssure module.  If/when the unit is left plugged in for an extended amount of time, even their low "float voltage" will eventually increase battery heat, increasing out-gassing of the electrolyte.  Unless the user is monitoring battery water pretty closely, he ends up with what you experienced.  While AGM-type batteries would prevent the electrolyte loss, they would certainly also benefit from the TempAssure technology which provides four different charge voltages based on battery temperature (compared to three from a multi-stage converter-charger like the Progressive Dynamics unit).

I think that with the TempAssure module installed to tailor charge voltage to battery condition, the Parallax unit becomes an excellent converter-charger.  I don't know why Parallax didn't just make it a standard feature on the units that can incorporate it, and bump their price accordingly.

All the best,          Mike

Yes, “extended”  charging times like long term storage seems to be the issue. I can deal with the storage, and when camping we don’t tend to stay at one location more than a few days...but would still be nice to have the ability to do so without cooking the batteries. As you say, the TempAssure seems like a no brainer thing to do. I plan on getting my Parallex model# today and hopefully adding the TempAssure feature.
Thanks again,
Tom

15
General Discussion / Re: Dead Batteries - Storage
« on: March 20, 2019, 07:51:28 am »
Think that’s it, thanks for all of your help...still a bit miffed to the fact that this rig was supplied with a basic single stage charging system?

- for long term storage the main battery disconnect switch will be OFF, and will periodically use my Optimate to keep the batteries fresh
- good idea leaving the inverter off while on shore power or generator.Did not realize that all 110v receptacles were powered while on shore or generator...thought that there’re was a few of them that were ONLY poewered by the inverter.
- while I am familiar with battery maintenance, I know it may not appear so based on this post, just have not seen this sort of water loss? Even the deep cycle trolling motor batteries I have used?
- Hopfully the Optimax will restore these batteries....if not as someone mentioned, yes we are getting ready to shove off probably early next week so probably the $99 Walmart option. Decide on a long term option.
Thanks again,
Tom

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