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« on: May 02, 2019, 04:33:04 pm »
Based on Randy’s input from Best Converters I went with Boondocker charger/converter...although he sells Parallax, he didn’t recommend it! The Parallax would have been a like for like swap out...the Boondocker was NOT.
I have completed the swap-out to the Boondocker BD-1260-HW and all works fine...13.8v output to the batteries.
For those who want the gory details -
Going into this I figured there were several reasons for gutting out the existing Parallax charger/converter chassis and mounting the New Boondocker in there,
1) the existing Parallax chassis mounts directly in the Parallax distribution panel, AC power/breakers on top and converter/charger on the bottom.
2) I could reuse the fuses mounted in the chassis for the DC output (although a demo YouTube shows the Boondocker DC out with fuses...the current model supplied does not!)
3) the existing DC output fuse board bolts onto the front face of the chassis
4) the power unit cover grill, the power units finished cover, mounts on a couple of holes on the bottom of the chassis.
So on the “Best Converter” web page they show a YouTube where a guy is replacing a Parallax charger/converter with a Boondocker, and there are some photos below that where is looks like someone mounted the Boondocker on the floor underneath, and cut pit the front of the chassis and screwed it to the top of the bottom trim board.
First, unplug AC (shore) power, and disconnect the batteries.
Second, remove front panels for the top AC breakers and the bottom charger/converter, and the power unit grill.
Third, disconnect wiring (AC and DC side and unbolt the DC fuse panel and swing it aside.
Fourth, remove Parallax charger/converter and gut the chassis out...drill out the four rivets on top, remove top cover and remove all components. BUT keep the DC output fuses to the fuse board as the new Boondocker does not come with a fuse block as the YouTube video shows.
Fifth, drop in the new Boondocker into the chassis, but it doesn’t quite fit as the YouTube shows...so had to notch out the top flanges of the chassis in order to get it to fit in.
Six, drill a couple of holes in the bottom of the chassis, toward the back to allow for the fuse block in font, and mount Boondocker to the base with sheet metal screws.
Seven, add wire length as needed to reach termination points and wire the common DC output wire through the existing fuse block.
Eight, screw the chassis top back on with sheet metal screws into the existing rivet holes...except, unlike the YouTube, the new Boondocker sits 1/4” higher than the existing Parallax so I had to add 3/8” spacers...so the top cover on the chassis sits just above the Boondocker.
Nine, slide the converter/charger chassis back in place, fish wiring through, and screw it in with the four mounting screws.
Ten, mount DC fuse board and terminate wires and mount AC chassis front panel.
Eleven, mount power units front grill.
Think that’s about it...cant seem to get pics to work, too much data?
Tom