House Batteries Not Charging...on Shore Power

On The Parallax web site, archived documents link, I found a troubleshooting diagnostic flow chart...and the charger/converter is shot. As Blueblaze suggested I’ll probably go with the Progressive Dynamics charger/converter...but as Mikeh suggested, I’ll look into the whole unit as well.
Thanks,

Actually the Progressive Dynamics PD9245CV converter will not work in my application - my existing Parallex 5355 is a 55amp rated output unit and the Progressive Dynamics PD9245CV is a 45amp output rated unit. I called them and he didn’t think that their 60amp unit would fit in that space. I’ll have to look at the dimensions for the complete power unit?
Tom

Tom,

You can certainly replace the complete power unit as one option.  I didn't compare dimensions between the Parallax 5355 and the Progressive Dynamics PD-4560 (which is the equivalent unit that Phoenix currently installs in 50-amp coaches), but I believe they're installed in the same location in the 2552 so should be basically interchangeable from a size perspective.

As mentioned before, a second and less demanding option would be to retain your existing power center and just replace the converter section.  The upper power section of your power center contains all the A/C circuit wiring to the individual breakers and the DC circuit wiring to the various fuses, so replacing the entire center would require disconnecting and rewiring all the various circuit wires to the power center.  The lower section of the center contains the converter/charger which essentially just has 4 or 5 wires connecting it--the two positive and negative 12-volt wires to the batteries (for charger output), and a couple of wires connecting to the upper section of the power center (for 120-volt converter input), and a chassis ground wire.  It simply looks to me like changing out just the converter/charger is less work than changing out the entire power center, unless you have a problem with the power center portion or want to change to another brand for your own reasons.

If you decide to pursue replacement of just the converter/charger section, there are at least a couple options if you have determined that the Progressive Dynamics converter is not possible.  One option is to use the Parallax 5355R (about $250), which is the exact replacement converter available from Parallax--so would be a direct interchange.  If you want to move away from the Parallax converter unit, Best Converters makes a line of converter/chargers called Boondocker, and their BC1260HWL ($170) is a unit with 4-stage charging that has been used to replace the converter/charger section of the Parallax 5355 on numerous occasions.  As a matter of fact there is a link right on the Best Converter site to a YouTube video of that particular change-out in an Airstream trailer.  There are several other descriptions of the change-out that you can easily reference with a little bit of searching--it's a pretty common replacement.  From all indications, "Randy"--the owner of Best Converters--is readily available by phone to provide advice on exactly what to use and how to proceed if you decide to go with that product.

Let us know how things proceed, and all the best,             Mike

Talked to Randy at Best Converters, has Parallax and Boondockers listed for sale on his web site. I went through my situation with him and asked which way to go, he said he wouldn't sell me a Parallax...nuf said!
Tom

Good info, Tom.  I've never dealt with Randy, but based on numerous comments from many sites, he has a really good knowledge of this segment of RV systems and provides dependable guidance.  Have you decided to insert a Boondocker converter, or replace the entire power center?

Mike 

Based on Randy’s input from Best Converters I went with Boondocker charger/converter...although he sells Parallax, he didn’t recommend it! The Parallax would have been a like for like swap out...the Boondocker was NOT.

I have completed the swap-out to the Boondocker BD-1260-HW and all works fine...13.8v output to the batteries.

For those who want the gory details -
Going into this I figured there were several reasons for gutting out the existing Parallax charger/converter chassis and mounting the New Boondocker in there,
1) the existing Parallax chassis mounts directly in the Parallax distribution panel, AC power/breakers on top and converter/charger on the bottom.
2) I could reuse the fuses mounted in the chassis for the DC output (although a demo YouTube shows the Boondocker DC out with fuses...the current model supplied does not!)
3) the existing DC output fuse board bolts onto the front face of the chassis
4) the power unit cover grill, the power units finished cover, mounts on a couple of holes on the bottom of the chassis.

So on the “Best Converter” web page they show a YouTube where a guy is replacing a Parallax charger/converter with a Boondocker, and there are some photos below that where is looks like someone mounted the Boondocker on the floor underneath, and cut pit the front of the chassis and screwed it to the top of the bottom trim board.

First, unplug AC (shore) power, and disconnect the batteries.
Second, remove front panels for the top AC breakers and the bottom charger/converter, and the power unit grill.
Third, disconnect wiring (AC and DC side and unbolt the DC fuse panel and swing it aside.
Fourth, remove Parallax charger/converter and gut the chassis out...drill out the four rivets on top, remove top cover and remove all components. BUT keep the DC output fuses to the fuse board as the new Boondocker does not come with a fuse block as the YouTube video shows.
Fifth, drop in the new Boondocker into the chassis, but it doesn’t quite fit as the YouTube shows...so had to notch out the top flanges of the chassis in order to get it to fit in.
Six, drill a couple of holes in the bottom of the chassis, toward the back to allow for the fuse block in font, and mount Boondocker to the base with sheet metal screws.
Seven, add wire length as needed to reach termination points and wire the common DC output wire through the existing fuse block.
Eight, screw the chassis top back on with sheet metal screws into the existing rivet holes...except, unlike the YouTube, the new Boondocker sits 1/4” higher than the existing Parallax so I had to add 3/8” spacers...so the top cover on the chassis sits just above the Boondocker.
Nine, slide the converter/charger chassis back in place, fish wiring through, and screw it in with the four mounting screws.
Ten, mount DC fuse board and terminate wires and mount AC chassis front panel.
Eleven, mount power units front grill.

Think that’s about it...cant seem to get pics to work, too much data?
Tom

Tom,

What was Randy's reason for avoiding the same (or upgraded) bolt-in Parallax?  What makes the Boondocker so much better?

He is an electronics guy, and his business (Best Converters) sells these sorts of things...and that was his opinion.

Also, RV forums such as this one and Airstream do not seem to have a very positive view on Parallax...my coach is a 2018. And, input on Best Converters was positive. My understanding is that PC has moved away from Paralllax...
Tom

Tom you say

I have completed the swap-out to the Boondocker BD-1260-HW and all works fine...13.8v output to the batteries.

Did you mean 14.8, which is what Trojan recommends when battery is not fully charged. 13.2 volts is the float charge.

The website shows their 4 stage Boondocker converter will output the following voltages:



14.7 Boost Mode Output
13.6 Normal Mode Output
13.2 Float (trickle) Mode Output

The 4th stage is the equalization mode.  It appears to be adjustable.  One should be careful not to set the output too high or run the risk of damaging some of the appliances.

At 14.7 volt boost mode the converter should bring the battery up to 90-95% state of charge (SOC) relatively quick.


I had a Parallax unit in a previous RV and had Phoenix Install a Progressive Dynamics 4 stage converter during the initial build of our 2552.  I much prefer the PD unit over the Parallax unit.  I assume the charging strategy used in the Boondocker is similar to the PD unit.

Tom you say

Quote

I have completed the swap-out to the Boondocker BD-1260-HW and all works fine...13.8v output to the batteries.

Did you mean 14.8, which is what Trojan recommends when battery is not fully charged. 13.2 volts is the float charge.

Even with the same brands, get the data sheet for your particular battery.

My Trojans say 14.4/13.5 for my AGM's.  I did skim the thread, I didn't see (or I missed...) what batteries the OP is using. And with my AGM's, I would disable the 4th stage to prevent equalization.

(my batteries data sheet -  http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/datasheets/31AGM_Trojan_Data_Sheets.pdf)


Tech does change fast though. When in doubt, refer to manufacturers data sheets. Yesterday's advice may not apply to today's problems.  And many times advice given in good faith is wrong - I still have residents that think it is good to let the cart batteries go to near dead before charging to prevent 'battery memory'.  While this DOES apply to NiCd (nickel–cadmium) batteries, and indeed can make the charge remaining time be closer to correct on your iPhone,  it is a harmful practice for lead acid.

 Keelhauler - the batteries (standard lead acid) were new a month ago and we had just gotten back from a long trip, so the batteries were fully charged. I was mainly just che king that I was getting charge to my batteries, through the charger/converter, while on shore power... which is the issue I was trying to resolve.

Still, while in storage I plan to have the coach power off...and use my Optimate charger.
Thanks,
Tom