Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rick Leddon on December 26, 2020, 03:36:40 pm
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I'm considering caster wheels mounted to the hitch to prevent scraping on the dip at the end of the driveway. Does anyone have experience and advise in regards to these.
Thanks
Rick
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My 2017 came with those installed, not sure if they still do that though.
Anyway, the first week we had the rig home I drove out of a parking lot and dropped the real wheels into a huge pothole. Said pothole being full of water and not noticeable. The skid wheels hit and protected the sewage connections / bumper / etc. I know they hit hard because there are pock mocks in the skid wheels where gravel got embedded in them. I think they are aluminum but not sure.
So to me they paid for themselves that day, anything else is just extra.
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I sure hope the new ones still come with them......
I'm considering caster wheels mounted to the hitch to prevent scraping on the dip at the end of the driveway. Does anyone have experience and advise in regards to these.
Thanks
Rick
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I'm considering caster wheels mounted to the hitch to prevent scraping on the dip at the end of the driveway. Does anyone have experience and advise in regards to these.
Thanks
Rick
What year is your 2910?
Also, I would suggest you call Carol at the Phoenix factory. She should be able to tell you if your 2910 originally came with them and supply you with replacements and/or tell you if the skid wheels they use on new builds will work on your 2910.
Don
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I sure hope the new ones still come with them......
I'm considering caster wheels mounted to the hitch to prevent scraping on the dip at the end of the driveway. Does anyone have experience and advise in regards to these.
Thanks
Rick
My 2019 3100 came with the casters and occasionally they do their job.. I assume they still install them. Maybe not on the shorter wheel base models?
Cheers :)(:
Barry T
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My skid wheels are my pad locks used on the blue safety cables attached to the hitch. Even though it is a very rare occurrence done gently, I really should get skid wheels. If there is a part number to shop on-line with, I would appreciate someone posting it.
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My 2020 came with them. They get 'used' more than I want when driving up in the mountains. Going into parking lots or smaller streets mainly. I have found that it helps if I hit the dips at an angle instead of head on.
Jeff
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I have found that it helps if I hit the dips at an angle instead of head on. Jeff
Oh yes. Do all you can to avoid entering or exiting perpendicular to the main street from a driveway, parking lot, gas station, whatever. Always do so at a 45 degree angle whenever possible to avoid dragging your tail. Unfortunately we cannot do so 100% of the time, hence it would be nice to have skid rollers.
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Amazon has ultra fab bolt on. First thing I added when I brought my 2013 2552 home. And they have been used as bits of ground concrete are imbedded in the wheels. Don’t remember them costing that much though.
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Thanks for all the information. I will call Carol today to see what Phoenix has available. My Cruiser is a 2012 and as far as I can tell it never had the skids. I have scraped the hitch pretty bad a coulee of times. I did see skid wheels on amazon, even one the was a single wheel that clips on to the receiver, held in place by the pin that holds the hitch to the receiver. I just want to make the best choice. Thanks for all the help.
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Thanks for all the information. I will call Carol today to see what Phoenix has available.
Please report back with what Carol tells you.
- Phoenix price including shipping?
- manufacture (brand) of the rollers?
- model number?
I have been meaning to add the pair that I understand attaches to the underside of the main crossbar of the hitch.
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I ;spoke to the parts department at PC. They directed me to amazon who had a number of options. I ordered a set the uses bolts secured around the receiver hitch.
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Thanks for all the information. I will call Carol today to see what Phoenix has available.
Please report back with what Carol tells you.
- Phoenix price including shipping?
- manufacture (brand) of the rollers?
- model number?
I have been meaning to add the pair that I understand attaches to the underside of the main crossbar of the hitch.
Ron
This is what I think you may be referring to from E-trailer, and what I'm thinking of getting...I just have to go out and measure the hitch crossbar.
The price is the same at Amazon, I like to shop elsewhere if possible. Or you can buy one roller for the same price at Camping World.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Skid-Wheels/Ultra-Fab-Products/UF48-979017.html
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Those particular Ultra-Fab units are the exact units that Phoenix installed on my 2019 2552 during the factory build.
Mike
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Thanks everyone!
I just ordered THIS SET (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-Fab-Products-48-979017-Steel-Ultra-Hitch-Mount-Roller/124494639534?epid=892969746&hash=item1cfc7571ae:g:A6YAAOSwhJJf3yZ7) off eBay for $84 and free shipping, a new but returned item, hence they were discounted. I might have to supply the 8 nylon locking nuts of which I have plenty of.
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Looks like I will have to customize my ball-mount to take a skid plate. The nut to the ball sits ~5" lower than the cross rail that most of these kits bolt/weld to.
I have done a few searches, and cant seem to find anything that works as a skid plate AND uses the ball at the same time. Just things similar to this:
(https://www.rocky-road.com/media/hitch-skid-plate-01.jpg)
I found one that has a single wheel, but still will be above ground level when the ball nut is dragging:
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/410EpS2MJqL._AC_SX425_.jpg)
Looks like maybe a 4" drop insert with a welded ball, then make a flat plate... dunno. Open for ideas, I cant be the first one to be in this spot. :)(:
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Hi Volkemon,
Could your trailer towing setup tolerate a gentle offset ball like THIS ONE FROM ETRAILER FOR $50 (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/C45331.html) invert-mounted?
That red skid plate you pictured looks like a disaster waiting to happen. It needed to be designed in reverse fashion to avoid catching things.
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I found it interesting to see the Ultra-Fab skid wheel package 48-979017 mounted two ways.
This picture on Camping World's ad. I think this is dead wrong.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50779397566_e35f24fe1c.jpg)
This picture on Ultra-Fab's website. I will be installing it this way.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50779509277_c5bcb8f07e.jpg)
Maybe you do it the wrong way if your hitch is less than 2-1/2" stock.
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Hi Volkemon,
Could your trailer towing setup tolerate a gentle offset ball like THIS ONE FROM ETRAILER FOR $50 (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/C45331.html) invert-mounted?
That red skid plate you pictured looks like a disaster waiting to happen. It needed to be designed in reverse fashion to avoid catching things.
That trailer ball is too high. Since I lowered the front, the back raised up about 1 1/2 inches so I use a 3 1/2" drop to keep the tandems evenly loaded on the trailer.
Keep in mind the red skid plate is for off road vehicles, and designed for such. I was using it as an example to avoid '1,000 words ' describing it. I may have to make a similar one for the camper.
I found it interesting to see the Ultra-Fab skid wheel package 48-979017 mounted two ways.
This picture on Camping World's ad. I think this is dead wrong.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50779397566_e35f24fe1c.jpg)
This picture on Ultra-Fab's website. I will be installing it this way.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50779509277_c5bcb8f07e.jpg)
Maybe you do it the wrong way if your hitch is less than 2-1/2" stock.
I think you found a marketing error when they assembled it for the picture. Good catch. I bet the instructions dont show that.
******************************************************************
OK, being me I had to see. (exactly) They dont. :lol https://ultra-fab.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/48-979018-install-inst.pdf
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Hi Volkemon,
Could your trailer towing setup tolerate a gentle offset ball like THIS ONE FROM ETRAILER FOR $50 (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/C45331.html) invert-mounted?
That red skid plate you pictured looks like a disaster waiting to happen. It needed to be designed in reverse fashion to avoid catching things.
That trailer ball is too high. Since I lowered the front, the back raised up about 1 1/2 inches so I use a 3 1/2" drop to keep the tandems evenly loaded on the trailer.
Keep in mind the red skid plate is for off road vehicles, and designed for such. I was using it as an example to avoid '1,000 words ' describing it. I may have to make a similar one for the camper.
I found it interesting to see the Ultra-Fab skid wheel package 48-979017 mounted two ways.
This picture on Camping World's ad. I think this is dead wrong.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50779397566_e35f24fe1c.jpg)
This picture on Ultra-Fab's website. I will be installing it this way.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50779509277_c5bcb8f07e.jpg)
Maybe you do it the wrong way if your hitch is less than 2-1/2" stock.
I think you found a marketing error when they assembled it for the picture. Good catch. I bet the instructions dont show that.
******************************************************************
OK, being me I had to see. (exactly) They dont. :lol https://ultra-fab.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/48-979018-install-inst.pdf
Volkemon, if I understand correctly, you are using a 3 1/2" drop hitch, and are looking protect the hitch when dragging? Specifically the threaded shank of the ball? If not, what are you trying to protect? Wheels on the hitch frame protect the underside of the RV from dragging. I'm guessing your hitch is the lowest point and the underside of the RV is safe. I have used drop hitches in the past that have drug. I had a 6" drop hitch on a previous class A RV. I just let it drag and it held up fine. what about adding another nut to the shank so it would drag? Or add some washers to lower the nut. do you weld, or know someone who welds? You could weld a bracket and a roller on the bottom in front of the shank and nut.
Jeff
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I just got the Ultra Fab casters. The instructions included shows the metal plate on the bottom, the caster side. I will be installing when it stops raining and warms up a little.
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For our particular PC with the tight clearance to our garage door, I cannot consider the following, but all you people might give this some thought.
There are spacers available for the rear leaf spring stacks. I believe Phoenix and other RV outfitters install them on one side or the other as needed to level a motorhome that has a natural lean due to an imbalanced weight distribution from the floor plan and slide outs. Why not install some spacers in each rear corner to increase your rear ground clearance? That can't be expensive for a shop to do.
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Our used 2019 3100 came with the metal wheels to prevent that chassis scrape. I assumed all the PC's came that way. We were also "gifted" with the Liquid Springs option which allows raising and lowering of the entire rear end among other features. LS is likely not something we would have bought but sure do like the capability it provides.
Hank
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As mentioned above, I have installed the ultrafab wheels. They are spaced out L/R as far as they will go. However , even with them I have dragged off what appears to be an extension to the backup sewer drain in the far back corner. No real damage except breaking the ears that connects it. Can live without it. Now said, if the wheels could be lowered, would give a bit more
“Lift” when needed. Just looking at it out in the rain, there are still several threads left on the U bolts. So I’m going to take off the nuts, add some large flat washers and lower the wheels as far as the ubolt will allow. Any little bit will have to help.
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As mentioned above, I have installed the ultrafab wheels. They are spaced out L/R as far as they will go. However , even with them I have dragged off what appears to be an extension to the backup sewer drain in the far back corner. No real damage except breaking the ears that connects it. Can live without it. Now said, if the wheels could be lowered, would give a bit more
“Lift” when needed. Just looking at it out in the rain, there are still several threads left on the U bolts. So I’m going to take off the nuts, add some large flat washers and lower the wheels as far as the "U"-bolt will allow. Any little bit will have to help.
Interesting issue and seemingly viable solution. If that doesn't work out, I wonder if the manufacture/supplier offers and extension kit.
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My purchase came in today.
For you with PC's as old as our 2007 with 5000 pound hitch, this kit fits. I snuggly slipped one of the "U" bolts over my hitch bar, confirming I have a 2.25" dimensional bar as the rollers are designed for. I will be mounting this kit to our 2007 2350 in the spring.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50792971966_c0106c9fd8_z.jpg)
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My purchase came in today.
For you with PC's as old as our 2007 with 5000 pound hitch, this kit fits. I snuggly slipped one of the "U" bolts over my hitch bar, confirming I have a 2.25" dimensional bar as the rollers are designed for. I will be mounting this kit to our 2007 2350 in the spring.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50792971966_c0106c9fd8_z.jpg)
I did a quick eyein' it measure of our 2010 hitch bar and it looked to me to be 2 1/2" from my upside-down perspective. The crossbar says Hidden Hitch, not sure if it is original or aftermarket, Any insight ?
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2 Lucky--
There is definitely some confusion on the actual dimension of this bolt-on roller unit.
In your earlier post with the link to the E-trailer site for this item, you referenced the Ultra-Fab product UF48-979017. Both on the E-trailer site AND the Ultra-Fab website, the UF48-979017 is listed to fit a 2 1/2" crossbar. As a matter of fact, the Ultra-Fab website only lists two roller kits of this specific design--the 979017 fits a 2 1/2" bar and the 979018 fits a 3" bar. There is no listing for a 2 1/4" bar.
A search on the UF48-979017 part number brings up several different vendor sales advertisements for it---some of those ads do reference fitting 2 1/4" square tubing, and some reference 2 1/2". The set Ron purchased on eBay plainly says for 2 1/4" bars in his photo. However, on today's listing for UF48-979017 on Amazon I saw one question and one comment referencing the need to insert a spacer on the 2 1/4" bars to shim out since the kit is designed for 2 1/2" bars.
Finally, my crossbar on my 2019 2552 is 2 1/2" (double-checked), and has this unit installed. Since current descriptions for UF48-979017 on E-trailer, Amazon, and Ultra-Fab sites currently specify 2 1/2", and Ultra-Fab doesn't even currently list a 2 1/4" unit, I think you would safely receive one that will fit your hitch if you order from one of these sites. This is definitely something that bears careful scrutiny from anyone interested in this modification, however.
Mike
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Volkemon, if I understand correctly, you are using a 3 1/2" drop hitch, and are looking protect the hitch when dragging? Specifically the threaded shank of the ball? If not, what are you trying to protect? Wheels on the hitch frame protect the underside of the RV from dragging. I'm guessing your hitch is the lowest point and the underside of the RV is safe. I have used drop hitches in the past that have drug. I had a 6" drop hitch on a previous class A RV. I just let it drag and it held up fine. what about adding another nut to the shank so it would drag? Or add some washers to lower the nut. do you weld, or know someone who welds? You could weld a bracket and a roller on the bottom in front of the shank and nut.
Jeff
With the clearances I have, I feel a skid plate welded to the underside of the ball will be the best bet. A roller would be hitting a lot.
Not so much to 'protect' the ball stud, but to make for a smoother slide over whatever I am bottoming out on. Avoid damaging things. I feel that the wheels mounted on the cross bar would be of little value in my setup, as the ball stud would be inches into the pavement before the wheels ever touch down. With so many years of experience here on the forum, I thought someone had seen a solution.
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Volkemon, if I understand correctly, you are using a 3 1/2" drop hitch, and are looking protect the hitch when dragging? Specifically the threaded shank of the ball? If not, what are you trying to protect? Wheels on the hitch frame protect the underside of the RV from dragging. I'm guessing your hitch is the lowest point and the underside of the RV is safe. I have used drop hitches in the past that have drug. I had a 6" drop hitch on a previous class A RV. I just let it drag and it held up fine. what about adding another nut to the shank so it would drag? Or add some washers to lower the nut. do you weld, or know someone who welds? You could weld a bracket and a roller on the bottom in front of the shank and nut.
Jeff
With the clearances I have, I feel a skid plate welded to the underside of the ball will be the best bet. A roller would be hitting a lot.
Not so much to 'protect' the ball stud, but to make for a smoother slide over whatever I am bottoming out on. Avoid damaging things. I feel that the wheels mounted on the cross bar would be of little value in my setup, as the ball stud would be inches into the pavement before the wheels ever touch down. With so many years of experience here on the forum, I thought someone had seen a solution.
Makes sense. You want to slide instead of gouge the pavement. :-D
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Having spent over 12 1/2 years as an accident reconstruction "expert" as part of my job as a police officer, including several specialized courses in vehicle and accident dynamics... (all of which is over 30 years ago)... take this for what it is worth...
Volkemon, if I understand correctly, you are using a 3 1/2" drop hitch, and are looking protect the hitch when dragging? Specifically the threaded shank of the ball? If not, what are you trying to protect? Wheels on the hitch frame protect the underside of the RV from dragging. I'm guessing your hitch is the lowest point and the underside of the RV is safe. I have used drop hitches in the past that have drug. I had a 6" drop hitch on a previous class A RV. I just let it drag and it held up fine. what about adding another nut to the shank so it would drag? Or add some washers to lower the nut. do you weld, or know someone who welds? You could weld a bracket and a roller on the bottom in front of the shank and nut.
Jeff
With the clearances I have, I feel a skid plate welded to the underside of the ball will be the best bet. A roller would be hitting a lot.
Not so much to 'protect' the ball stud, but to make for a smoother slide over whatever I am bottoming out on. Avoid damaging things. I feel that the wheels mounted on the cross bar would be of little value in my setup, as the ball stud would be inches into the pavement before the wheels ever touch down. With so many years of experience here on the forum, I thought someone had seen a solution.
You do not want a skid plate, you want more rollers on the tow bar. And, if possible the the trailer ball not screwed to the tongue but welded both top and bottom. Or, as an alternative, higher tow arms (and ball socket) on whatever you are towing.
Just my opinion.
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Sorry for the photoshopped image, but this is my idea of a solution. Weld a bracket and roller in front of the hitch. You could probably find a roller that doesn't drop down much lower than the ball nut. Amazon has several weld on rollers.
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Sorry for the photoshopped image, but this is my idea of a solution. Weld a bracket and roller in front of the hitch. You could probably find a roller that doesn't drop down much lower than the ball nut. Amazon has several weld on rollers.
You could refine and patent that...I searched and could find nothing like that.
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And, if possible the the trailer ball not screwed to the tongue but welded both top and bottom. Or, as an alternative, higher tow arms (and ball socket) on whatever you are towing.
Just my opinion.
We were thinking alike on the ball... Traded with my buddy for one. 2o2
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50802889818_a33de95a18_b.jpg)
Be tough to raise the tow arms, looks like they already got all they could in the initial design. Its a miracle that the lower edge shows no serious contact. (nod) Those chain link ends would be a tattletale..
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50802890033_af1ae955bb_b.jpg)
BUT.... I do have these holes on either side that will accept 2" square tubing...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50802889583_6128b2d479_b.jpg)
And I have some 2000# casters with really strong wheels. I could weld brackets to the 2" tube and position them like they are mocked up here... More design time needed. :)(:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50803839572_6a8b886a25_b.jpg)
Here is a closeup of the wheel. Roller bearings in the middle, then the brass outer bushings take the load when it gets really heavy. I have four total, so a couple spares should I really chew one up. Then again, if they dont work I can slide the tube out of the receiver and re-design.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50802979393_de5fe26f5d_b.jpg)
@ JHobbes - good mockup on the hitch roller. (cheer) tymote I may see if it works out to match up with the 'step' in the trailer tongue. Like 2 Lucky, I had searched and found nothing like it. I may just weld up a smoother transition on the trailer and let it be the skid, if 'the scrape' happens. MORE DESIGN TIME! :)(: roflol
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That's a good plan. My only question is will those wheels hold up with that much pressure put on it.
Looks like you are putting a wheelie bar on the back of your PC. :-D
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I have some 2000# casters with really strong wheels. I could weld brackets to the 2" tube and position them like they are mocked up here... More design time needed. :)(:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50803839572_6a8b886a25_b.jpg)
Roller bearings in the middle, then the brass outer bushings take the load when it gets really heavy. I have four total, so a couple spares should I really chew one up. Then again, if they dont work I can slide the tube out of the receiver and re-design.
MORE DESIGN TIME! :)(: roflol
If Don Garlits is still in Tampa you should go look him up. ;)
BTW, Camping World is now the official sponsor of NHRA drag racing 2o2
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;)
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Tow arms raised (or hitch latch) like a gooseneck.
Although I do really like the drag bars! pyho
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I found this pic in an article on skid rollers but it had no info or link to the maker.
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That's a good plan. My only question is will those wheels hold up with that much pressure put on it.
Looks like you are putting a wheelie bar on the back of your PC. :-D
I know. I am gonna have to do an air dam on front now.
I dont expect to carry the GRWR on either wheel. ( If I find myself in such a position I would be looking at serious failure of the loose nut behind the steering wheel. :lol )
Not sure the hitch would sustain an upload load of 4000#+ anyway... :help
I am hoping that they will support that first ton+, and prevent damage. They are rated at a ton as a caster, I bet the failure point of the wheel is higher. It's great living by the space center. :-D
But if the idea is a flop, I will pull them off the camper and try again. I have no doubt any energy used to destroy them will be saved from my coach. 2o2 (cheer) And until then it looks like I have Big Daddy Wheelie Bars! (cheer) (cheer) (cheer)
And now I need to do the straight out the back exhaust with the chrome resonator tip. (exactly)
Right after I get the &^%#$ contractor back to work on our now multi-YEAR improvement project pyho
2 Lucky - Nice find! And good design IMO. 2o2 2o2
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I found this pic in an article on skid rollers but it had no info or link to the maker.
Good find 2Lucky. So much for me patenting it and making millions. :'(
I tracked it down. RoadMaster makes this Roller Ball Mount in 4, 6, 8, and 10 inch drop hitches. (https://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/accessories/hitch/roller.html)
etrailer.com has them. https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Accessories_and_Parts-pt-Roller_Ball_Mount.aspx
Jeff