I have a 2910 T 2015 year . it is in storage inside heated building Plugged in to 120 volt power. How does the batteries stay charged ? I checked yesterday the voltage was 3 volts nothing would work. Every thing is off. How do I check this out ? I removed the hot cable (red + ) to charged the batteries .If you are plugged into 120 volt then the converter should be charging the batteries and also providing 12 volt power to the lights and other equipment. Do you have the battery disconnect switch off? If so nothing 12 volt will work and the batteries will not get charged. So they might have just drained over time. How long has the coach been in storage?
Would the converter power the lights with the batteriesI believe the answer to that is yes, but I'm not 100% certain.
disconnected
I leave the switch to the left of steering wheel on and the solar keeps all my batteries charged all the time.@Keelhauler I think that switch is a momentary contact type on my rig. You have to hold it in to activate the 'boost'. I wonder if that is a change between your model year and mine?
I use the secondary battery charger shown below.Another solution is to use a trickle charger or battery tender like this (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1515359957&sr=1-6&keywords=trickle+charger) They will not charge (at least not very fast) a discharged battery but they will keep it topped up all winter. I use one on the battery for my generator at the house.
@Keelhauler I think that switch is a momentary contact type on my rig. You have to hold it in to activate the 'boost'. I wonder if that is a change between your model year and mine?
You may have a bad converter. After charging the house batteries test them for 6 volts ( 12 volts in series) with a voltmeter before reconnecting the + side from the coach, then reconnect the shore power. Measure the charging voltage at the batteries. It should measure 13.0 to 13.5 volts. If you have to replace it get a Progressive Dynamics model with charge wizard.
The surge protector won't detect a load from the microwave when it is off. Check that the air conditioner, refrigerator, and inverter are all OFF too and that nothing is plugged in to the AC sockets since those are the only other loads on the AC / shore power circuit.
As previously discussed, leaving the rig connected to shore power can cause the oem dumb converter to overcharge and boil the house batteries. Using the house battery disconnect switch will prevent the batteries from discharging while the rig is stored. Check if the LP gas detector is still on when the battery disconnect switch is in off mode. Try turning off all DC circuit breakers while the rig is stored to eliminate the possibility of parasitic loads.
Storing the rig with a disconnected main battery can cause the Ford ECM to lose the learned data used for emission control, resulting in a check engine light condition that can only be cleared by performing numerous required drive cycles.
One thing that can be done to the existing Parallax converter that will help keep it from boiling the batteries is the addition of their temperature monitoring module (https://www.amazon.com/Parallax-Power-4400TAU-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B00MI3UY8K).Our 10 year old Tripp-Lite inverter has a temperature sensor that is taped to one of the two batteries, sandwiched between the batteries. I swear that thing never did any good from day #1, but still I make sure it's in place with wire dressed properly......just in-case I am wrong.
I added one to my rig as soon as I got it. Simple install, and around $60. It monitors the battery temperature and adjusts the charging voltage to keep the batteries from boiling. I really do not know why this is not standard equipment.
Maybe not as good as a PD 4 stage charger but if you are not ready to swap out the converter yet the TempAssure might be a good investment.
Our 10 year old Tripp-Lite inverter has a temperature sensor that is taped to one of the two batteriesRon, what is the point of having a temperature sensor from the inverter? I mean, what does it do? Or is the Tripp-Lite a charger as well?
Hi jatrax,QuoteOur 10 year old Tripp-Lite inverter has a temperature sensor that is taped to one of the two batteriesRon, what is the point of having a temperature sensor from the inverter? I mean, what does it do? Or is the Tripp-Lite a charger as well?
Yes the Tripp-Lite is a charger and inverter. It performs both functions. Doesn't the current day inverter do the same? I always thought every different inverter that Phoenix installed since 2006, also charged the batteries.No, not at all. There are some converter / inverter units on the market but the majority I see advertised are stand alone. Certainly nothing Phoenix has used recently is a combo like yours.
Thanks for the detailed explanation jatrax. That explains all the forum discussions I've read on Xantrex and Parallax. I had thought Phoenix had been installing different brands of the same functional unit we have. It never crossed my mind that they were performing dedicated inverting and charging functions.QuoteYes the Tripp-Lite is a charger and inverter. It performs both functions. Doesn't the current day inverter do the same? I always thought every different inverter that Phoenix installed since 2006, also charged the batteries.No, not at all. There are some converter / inverter units on the market but the majority I see advertised are stand alone. Certainly nothing Phoenix has used recently is a combo like yours.
My rig uses a Parallax converter / power center (http://www.parallaxpower.com/5355-power-center-5355) and a stand alone Xantrex inverter. (http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-inverters/freedom-xi.aspx) The Xantrex has no charging or converting functionality, pure inverter.
And that explains the temperature sensor, the inverter has no need but the charger portion of the Tripp-Lite is presumably using it to not overcharge the batteries. Of course I'm just guessing at that. But the temperature monitor added to my Parallax charger does that.
Agree Ron, just because there is a temp sensor there does not mean the unit is using it intelligently. I had a lengthy discussion with someone at Parallax about the temperature sensor they offer and he was extremely positive about the results, regardless of battery type. I also have AGM and he still felt the temp sensor would improve both charge state and battery life. According to him with the temp sensor the Parallax will charge at voltages up to 14.4. Without it they max out at 13.7 because the charger has no way to know what is happening at the batteries so it plays safe.That is quite interesting. Thanks for the explanation.
Battery charging is also more complicated when multiple inputs are available. On my rig the batteries can be charged by the alternator, the solar charger or the charger in the Parallax power center. The Parallax without temp sensor maxs out at 13.7 but with temp sensor will go to 14.4. The solar charger is more configurable and will go to 14.7 which is the recommended charge voltage for Trojan AGM batteries. So the only way to actually maximize the charge on my rig is with the solar charger.
jas,
Everyone is giving you good advise.
I practice an alternative method with our 2350 stored in our heated garage.
1) Disconnect the hot/red wire from both house and chassis batteries to eliminate any potential drain on them.
2) Using a secondary battery charger, charge the pair of house batteries and also the chassis battery once every-2 to 3 months until the charger says they are full.
I use the secondary battery charger shown below. Mine has 4, 10, 20 and 40 amp settings. For battery maintenance during storage periods, I use the low 4 amp setting. Readout is in amps, not volts, which is what you want. As the batteries charge up, the number drops lower. When it hits zero, the charger says "FULL" and stops charging.
I bring the red charger and use it on trips, primarily utilizing the generator. Our 2007 has the older Tripp-Lite inverter which I do NOT rely on it because I don't know the charging status. It also charges slower than the red charger. To limit generator run times, I set the red charger to the 40 amp setting. No worries when on a trip, but during long term storage, I fear the on-board inverter/charger over-charges the batteries rather than shutting off when the batteries are fully charged.
(https://www.toolstop.co.uk/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/bc1858c19a3798c0f2f587c478bc923c.jpg)
what pathway is it taking to run the coach and charge the house battery(s). Same as shore power ?In general yes. Some coaches or trailers have a receptacle that you plug the generator into just like you would plug in the shore power cable.
On Phoenix coaches (all I have seen anyway) there is an ATS or Automatic Transfer Switch in the path. Both the shore power plug and a feed from the generator go to the ATS. It has the ability to sense power on both the inputs. It is programmed to give power from the generator priority, so if it detects power on the generator feed it switches to generator. So if you only have shore power that is connected to the coach, if you have only generator that is connected to the coach and if you have both then the generator gets connected.
MOST helpful Grin ! I have a 2006 coach without an inverter, and would like to add one. In the later coaches that do have one, how is the output routed to the coach outlets?
We had to get a golf cart between the RV's to jump start the generator this last fest.Hi Volkeman,
need a dryer plug or stove plug that is 30 amp....Just a word of caution here but residential 'dryer' or 'stove' receptacles are 30 or 50 amp @240 volts. They have two circuits that will provide 120 to ground or 240 to each other on a volt meter.
In 2006, that switch was an option. However your Ford alternator should still charge your house battery.
Put a digital voltmeter on your house battery, then startup your engine, voltage should go up to 14.2 to 14.7 volts
I don't show the generator/120V power transfer switch. It is automatic as described by Jatrax.
But all the wiring I show in sketch is the same for 2006 except for Inverter & that switch.
We had to get a golf cart between the RV's to jump start the generator this last fest.Hi Volkeman,
Run your V10 engine and use jumper cables to jump-start your generator through your house batteries. But I wonder if 20 foot jumper cables will be long enough for you.
About that switch on my dash board. I have it but don't use it when in trouble. I wouldn't want to hold that switch in for so long a time to get a drained battery charged enough to turn over the generator or the main V10 engine. Jumper cables accomplish the same but with heavy gauge wire for the option to "jump-start" rather than just modest charging. And if the problem battery won't hold a charge, you are surely wasting your time holding in that switch for so long a time. Jumper cables is a sure bet for either situation, a drained battery or a dead battery that won't hold a charge.
I installed a volt meter in the control panel over the stove top to monitor house battery voltage. I also have a plug-in volt meter in the main 12V outlet on the dash board to monitor chassis battery voltage. To my surprise, house and chassis batteries see a consistent voltage increase when the Ford V10 engine is running. They never drop to the actual battery voltage until the engine is turned off, and then their battery voltage readings are independent of each other. Something happens when the engine is turned off that isolates the batteries from each other.
Think about it. If your chassis battery and house battery were tied together only with a simple 12V wire, you would be using power from your chassis battery for house operations. In my PC, something isolates them when the Ford engine is turned off. I would think Phoenix has the same chassis battery protection on all their PCs when sold new. Whatever changes you make, make sure the chassis battery is isolated from the house when camping.
Volkemon, I share your year of origin, 2006, buying mine used from Earl last year. It also has the single 12 volt battery, and the first summer we used it the house battery seemed to always be low in spite of driving, and finally died that fall. In taking it to a battery shop for a replacement, the owner decided to investigate the possible reason for poor performance. He found with the engine running the battery wasn't being charged, AHA ! Upon further investigation he found a cable near the battery with it's end taped up. We removed the tape, attached it to the battery, started the engine, and voila !
House battery now charging.
So check around good under there, maybe the cable got detatched like mine.
Hey, I've got a question. I've seen several people say that you need to disconnect the house batteries before using an external battery charger. Anybody know why? I don't disconnect the chassis battery to use a trickle charger (or my motorcycle or lawn tractor either, for that matter). Why can't I just put a trickle charger on the house batteries? In fact, I was even thinking of installing a jack so I can just plug it in when it's in storage.I don't think it matters whether the house batteries are connected or not. No harm either way. Just make sure the main kill switch inside your PC is off. It is typically located inside aft of the entry door.
Volkemon, I share your year of origin, 2006, buying mine used from Earl last year. It also has the single 12 volt battery, and the first summer we used it the house battery seemd to always be low in spite of driving, and finally died that fall. In taking it to a battery shop for a replacement, the owner decided to investigate the possible reason for poor performance. He found with the engine running the battery wasn't being charged, AHA ! Upon further investigation he found a cable near the battery with it's end taped up. We removed the tape, attatched it to the battery, started the engine, and voila !
House battery now charging.
Previous owner must have "taped it off" for some reason, maybe for winterizing ?
So check around good under there, maybe the cable got detatched like mine. If none present maybe it's just a matter of running a cable between the two ?
Hey, I've got a question. I've seen several people say that you need to disconnect the house batteries before using an external battery charger. Anybody know why? I don't disconnect the chassis battery to use a trickle charger (or my motorcycle or lawn tractor either, for that matter). Why can't I just put a trickle charger on the house batteries? In fact, I was even thinking of installing a jack so I can just plug it in when it's in storage.
Hey, I've got a question. I've seen several people say that you need to disconnect the house batteries before using an external battery charger. Anybody know why? I don't disconnect the chassis battery to use a trickle charger (or my motorcycle or lawn tractor either, for that matter). Why can't I just put a trickle charger on the house batteries? In fact, I was even thinking of installing a jack so I can just plug it in when it's in storage.
I can see disconnecting the house batteries for two reasons -
1) there might be a 12V load connected to them that would overdraw a smaller charger and overheat/harm/destroy it.
2) If you connected the shore power and also had an external charger there is a possibility that the on board charger and the external charger may not 'play well' together. I had that issue when trying to use two chargers to boost a battery. I connected the second and the first went POP and never worked again. Fried part of the board. :beg
in my 2006 there is a breaker right next to the batteries. So when I connect an external charger I just disconnected the batteries there. This still leaves the possibility that the chargers might interact through the ground, but so far so good...
So what is the logic in using the battery disconnect when using an external charger?
And if you want some reading on RV and off-grid solar / battery systems try: Handy Bob Solar (https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/) He is a little well, opinionated, but he knows his stuff and not from reading about it either.
Specs and Features:
Type: Group 31 AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt)
102 Ah , 12 V (1,224 Wh Capacity)
730 Cold Cranking Amp Rating
Dimensions (LxWxH): 13.42 in x 6.81 in x 8.40 in (9.21 including stud)
Weight: 69 lbs
Stud Terminal - .64 in Tall
Robust Plate Construction - A thick plate construction makes it more robust and resistant to the stresses encountered during deep discharge cycling. The unique plate design also prevents erosion of the active material which can occur during repeated discharge and recharge, resulting in longer cycle life.
Heavy-Duty Corrosion Resistant Grid - A sunburst array grid design is cast, not stamped, ensuring that no hairline fractures develop during the manufacturing process. The overall grid configuration is optimized to enhance current flow through the grid providing exceptional battery performance. The addition of side and bottom grid wires offer industry-leading vibration resistance.
High-Density Paste - The OverDrive AGM 31 is constructed with a high-density paste formulation precisely engineered to deliver outstanding performance. This high density paste formulation optimizes porosity development utilizing the active material more effectively resulting in longer life.
Rugged Polypropylene Case - Trojan's OverDrive AGM 31 battery is packaged in a thick walled, durable polypropylene case rigid enough to keep the internal components of the battery compressed. The rugged polypropylene case effectively protects the plates from damage caused by shock and vibration, and is resistant to oil, gasoline and other road chemicals.
And if you want some reading on RV and off-grid solar / battery systems try: Handy Bob Solar (https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/) He is a little well, opinionated, but he knows his stuff and not from reading about it either.
I clicked and scanned through that "Handy Bob Solar" article. That is a mountain of material to read through.
What really surprised me were the pictures further down in his article.
It seems to me, unless you are monitoring shadows on your solar panels all the time, they are not doing much for you. Maybe it's better to mount them to a stand on the ground so you can move them around to avoid every shadow as the sun passes overhead.
When you get done with Handy Bob try Dan Mayer (http://www.jackdanmayer.com/rv_electrical_and_solar.htm) I really wish these guys would figure out you can use paragraphs when you write stuff. But I guess we are not interested in their writing skills, only their knowledge of solar / off grid / RV electrical systems. :)
General “rule of thumb “ for solar panels is about 1 to 1.5 Watts of panel output per amp hour of battery capacity or for your 400 ah battery bank about 400 - 600 watt panel output.
I clicked and scanned through that "Handy Bob Solar" article. That is a mountain of material to read through.
What really surprised me were the pictures further down in his article.
It seems to me, unless you are monitoring shadows on your solar panels all the time, they are not doing much for you. Maybe it's better to mount them to a stand on the ground so you can move them around to avoid every shadow as the sun passes overhead.
He covers 'portable' panels also, and does not approve.
I think I have a 'shadow free zone' forward of the AC on the roof. Parking correctly will certainly affect this also.
I bet I have 2 hrs of reading on this blog. AWESOME information.
I do wish I had (4) 6V AGM batteries, it would give me a ~450Ah pack instead of the ~400 Ah pack I will get with the 12V I have now. I still have to do my math and see if that is a 'practical' size also. I have the room.
The 12V batteries were $50 each however... ;) I will worry about 6V replacements when the time comes.
I am able to make a rack without a slideout also now that regular maintenance has been eliminated. :-D
I do wish I had (4) 6V AGM batteries, it would give me a ~450Ah pack instead of the ~400 Ah pack I will get with the 12V I have now.
What kind of 6v batteries are showing 450AHrs?
..............................................................................................
Yes, 4 of those batteries in a serial/parallel configuration would give you 12v @ 450AHrs
The new Surrette Rolls S-480 is an improved 6-Volt deep cycle battery with 486 Amp Hour capacity at 100 hour rate. It features thick, positive plates and large liquid reserve for high cycles. The container is built with a lightweight and strong container with integrated rope handles.
(http://webosolar.com/store/1001-thickbox_default/surrette-s-480-ah-6-volt-deep-cycle-battery.jpg)
Volkemon,
You are breaking new ground in the PC world. I do not know anyone who has exceeded two house batteries. It will be interesting to see what you come up with.
Given our camping style, we too needed to make some changes to improve our on-board power capacity and the regeneration of it. These relatively simple (easy to implement) changes improved energy immensely with our typical two battery provision. I am sure more can be done.
1) Turn on the inverter ONLY when 110v is needed. Otherwise leave it off.
Gotcha.
2) Turn on the generator for high-energy use, short time items, like making a pot of coffee.
Pattie has a maker for the stove. I dont drink it. When festival camping, I found the 1500W inverter with a 'Mr Coffee' did fine on two 6V golf cart batteries for days.
3) When on battery power, watch TV in the bedroom on the low-power TV powered by the inverter. When on shore power, enjoy the main TV.
We have yet to turn on the TV... :lol not big watchers.
4) Changing from two 12V liquid acid batteries, to two-6V AGM batteries.
I wish I had (4) 6V AGM instead of the (4) 12V AGM, maybe on replacement.
5) Changing all lighting from florescent and incandescent lighting, to LED lighting
Working on that. See my LED floor lights on the REflooring thread. :)
7) Adding a volt meter in plain sight to keep battery condition "in my face".
Indeed, I am gonna spring for a battery monitor system.
8) Don't let the voltage get below 12.1V. Run the generator as needed to charge the batteries. I prefer to use a more efficient external charger to reduce generator run times, but I'll let the on-board charger do the job if it's raining badly.
My recharge rate on the pack is still being determined, but it appears that AGM batteries can take a high charge rate. I am going to max it out with a charger that runs off its own shore power input or the generator. Hopefully make best use of generator 'on' time.
One other easy power saver comes to mind, but not yet implemented. Not so long ago, when edge lit LED TV technology arrived, I learned that some smaller LED TVs sold in stores already run on 12V-14V. They use an external transformer in the power cord to convert from 110V to 12V-14V. All you need to do for the installation into your PC is, cut off the transformer and wire the remaining cord direct into 12V. Not only does the TV use less energy, but you don't need to turn on the inverter. Keep in-mind that a DVD/Blu-Ray player and surround system still requires 110V. So the results will vary pending the use of the sound system and entertainment source. Roof antenna or cable TV input with a 12V TV will yield best results. The key is to keep the inverter "off" to save more energy.
I especially like to use the inverter when we are spending much of the day traveling. We can get sloppy with power usage because the Ford-V10 engine regenerates everything so well. But once at a destination without shore power, and spending our days out in the tow vehicle sightseeing and hiking, we immediately change over to the conservative method.
2o2
I hope never needing four house batteries. The topic on solar panels is fascinating as well, but I don't think they are for us. But one thing in life I learned.....never say never. In the mean time, I thank you and the others for the interesting reading material.
The solar idea is cool, and 'on the table'. But for now the $$ will be spent on installing the pack, inverters, and HD charger for use from the generator/shore power. The stock charger currently onboard is not 'proper' for AGM.
Ron Dittmer
Maybe I missed it @volkemon but where are you putting 4 batteries? I asked for four when my coach was built and I was told it was not possible, no room.Hi jatrax,
Maybe I missed it @volkemon but where are you putting 4 batteries? I asked for four when my coach was built and I was told it was not possible, no room.
Hi Volkemon, just wondering if you ever resolved the issue of your house battery(s) not being recharged from the engine alternator ?
Volkemon just might be placing a pair of batteries on each side of the entry door. He had his sight on the under-floor space forward of the entry door, under the floor where a Euro chair would typically be today, maybe with access from a hatch through the floor.
Volkemon, Did I get it right?
I do wish I had (4) 6V AGM batteries, it would give me a ~450Ah pack instead of the ~400 Ah pack I will get with the 12V I have now.
What kind of 6v batteries are showing 450AHrs?
..............................................................................................
Yes, 4 of those batteries in a serial/parallel configuration would give you 12v @ 450AHrs
:lol Looks like you figured out the answer. I edited the quotes to show relevant parts.
But of course i had to google it... and they get the 450+ Ah rating using the 100 hour rate NOT 20.. Rated Capacity (20 Hour Rate) -375 Ah. And significant work would be needed to get 6 in an old Club Car.. roflolQuoteThe new Surrette Rolls S-480 is an improved 6-Volt deep cycle battery with 486 Amp Hour capacity at 100 hour rate. It features thick, positive plates and large liquid reserve for high cycles. The container is built with a lightweight and strong container with integrated rope handles.
(http://webosolar.com/store/1001-thickbox_default/surrette-s-480-ah-6-volt-deep-cycle-battery.jpg)
Your 16" high battery (the Rolls) isn't going to fit anywhere reasonable on a PC, let alone 4 of them plus they weigh about 120lbs each wet.
You might as welk specify diesel submarine batteries.
Your 4 Trojan batterirs will give you 204 AHrs at 12v.
My two Lifeline GPL-4CT 6v AGM batteries give me 220 AHrs @ 12v. Of course they cost more... $600 for 2 of them but well worth it since the fit the battery tray. No need to McGuyver anything.
Your 16" high battery (the Rolls) isn't going to fit anywhere reasonable on a PC, let alone 4 of them plus they weigh about 120lbs each wet.
You might as welk specify diesel submarine batteries.
Your 4 Trojan batterirs will give you 204 AHrs at 12v.
My two Lifeline GPL-4CT 6v AGM batteries give me 220 AHrs @ 12v. Of course they cost more... $600 for 2 of them but well worth it since the fit the battery tray. No need to McGuyver anything.
This allows me to mount all four batteries in that area behind the passenger door and in front of the coach door.That space for batteries is ideal for general weight distribution.
Thanks for the info Ron. I assumed there was a difference in the units, but always best to check. I know there is no way I could add 300 pounds on my front end. Glad it will work on the 2350, might even help with the weight distribution.Yes, I think it will help with weight distribution. Not just an E350, but the earlier E350 with the lesser 11,500 GVWR.
Is that on an E350 or E450?
I did not weigh all corners individually. We never had a need on any of the farm equipment and they held up fine.LOL. Well we never weighed any of the farm equipment either, which was probably a good idea. :) A set of 4 bottom roll-over mouldboards definitely squashed the tires when you lifted at the end of the strip.
I’m really unknowing in all this so bare with me if my question seems dumb, as it probably is. Why is it so important to never let my batteries go below 12.1?Full charge on a 12 volt battery is about 12.6 volts. 12.1 volts is about 50% charge. A standard lead acid battery should never be allowed to go below 50% charge. Each time doing that hurts its ability to fully recharge. Do it too often and the battery will fail to hold a complete charge. So the rule of thumb for those with in coach volt meters is to watch the voltage and recharge if getting close to 12.1 volts. If you have a energy management system like the Bogart Trimetric 2030 (http://www.bogartengineering.com/products/trimetrics.html) you can watch that instead for a much more accurate reading. But watching the voltage and staying above 12.1 will help.
I’m really unknowing in all this so bare with me if my question seems dumb, as it probably is. Why is it so important to never let my batteries go below 12.1?The simple answer is because everyone says so. :)
They are never 100% after a year and they come with a one year warranty. So they offer new replacements. Why wouldn’t I change them out; it only costs me the time I spend changing them out.
They are never 100% after a year and they come with a one year warranty. So they offer new replacements. Why wouldn’t I change them out; it only costs me the time I spend changing them out.Well, if you get a free one every year then I guess there isn't any reason to not change them out.
Ron, a voltage drop when using any significant amount of battery power is normal.Thank you for the explanation jatrax!
The 'proper' test of battery voltage is:
- disconnect battery from any load
- charge battery fully
- wait at least 1 hour after charge complete
- test voltage
That will give you the only 'true' voltage. You cannot get a true voltage when the battery is under load. But that is really only for testing a suspect battery. A volt meter in line as you have gives you an instant reading on the state of the battery relative to normal operations. Which is all you need to tell how things are going.
But any load on the battery will pull the voltage down as long as it is present. That is just how the lead - acid cycle works.
Other batteries, particularly Lithium have different load curves and their voltage will react differently to a load.
Sorry it took me so long to reply, I don’t get on here every day. Being retired I’m so busy I wonder how I ever had time to have a job.
I buy my batteries at Costco. When asked about an extended warranty for batteries they tell you straight up bring them back before the one year dead line. They give you a full refund and you go back in and buy new. It costs Costco nothing as the manufacture takes them back. As the tech pointed out. He has never seen deep cycle batteries that hadn’t lost some reserve within that year.
Dyna, so your saying I’m doing something wrong by accepting what they push? I suppose you turn down free refills at your local resturant or mc Donald’s even though it cuts into their bottom line as well. To each their own.
Do you buy from Amazon? I do , even knowing they strong arm their suppliers into making smaller margins and taking returns as well. Just like Costco.
If a passenger car battery is used in a diesel vehicle (not including passenger automobiles), truck more than one ton, lawn tractor, snowmobile, or recreational, service or marine vehicle, etc., the limited warranty is reduced to a free-replacement period of six months or half the standard length of that battery.
If there is a defect in material or workmanship (not merely the battery being discharged) this limited warranty provides that upon return of the battery to any Costco Wholesale warehouse, the battery will be replaced, at purchase price, excluding fees and taxes, and be refunded, according to the life of the battery warranty as stated on the battery label.
Solar trickle charger/battery maintainer question
What's the optimum (unregulated) solar trickle charger wattage needed to effectively maintain a fully charged 850 CCA main (starter) battery? For comparison, an AC powered Battery Tender is rated at 9W regulated output (12v x .75A).
I recently added a 3.5W Coleman/ Sunpower panel in addition to the 1.5W Chicago Electric /Harbor Freight panel that was NOT doing the job. By utilizing both always-on cigarette lighter plugs in the dash I can use the 2 panels in parallel for 5W total charging output. Both panels have blocking diodes to prevent nighttime drain and are generating 17.8v each in partial sunlight. If 5W proves to be insufficient I could increase the total to 7W by replacing the 1.5W panel with a 2nd 3.5W panel.
The limiting factor of battery's shelf life is the rate of self-discharge which itself is temperature dependent. VRLA batteries will self-discharge less than 3% per month at 77º F (25º C). Flooded batteries will self-discharge up to 15% per month at 77º F (25º Csource - http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/faq/ scroll down to 'Maintenance' item 1- Shelf Life
And no, I never stated that 1 YO batteries would be working 'as new' after a yeah. Actually, I think I posted the opposite didnt I? (nod)
Nearly all batteries will not reach full capacity until cycled 10-30 times. A brand new battery will have a capacity of about 5-10% less than the rated capacity.