white water drain valve on my 2008 29ft PC is BROKEN!

The handle on my outside water drain valve has broken. I purchased a replacement from AMAZON (4 bucks!). I am able to remove the two screws holding the plastic valve against the MH body BUT I can't figure out how to get at the C clamp that keeps the current valve from leaking. There is absolutely no play in the hose and that clamp has to be removed. How can I get at that plastic hose from the inside. Is there a cover underneath the mattress box that will allow access?

tks in advance!

The fresh water drain on my 2007 is the same generic type used on an insulated water jug.  Assuming you have the same, you should be able to pop off the turning handle portion from the rest, and snap the new one in.  I would leave the rest alone unless it leaks or the parts are not compatible.

If the valve is hard to turn or is leaky, on my favorite water jug I simply clean it well and then smear a light film of Vaseline that keeps it turning easy and seal well for about 3 years which then I'll repeat.

Thanx Ron!! It DID pop out but not without some effort. I slightly damaged the housing and now the valve leaks a bit but at least it turns freely. Any idea what I could use to increase friction and tighten the spigot a bit? I could jerry-rig something but sure hate to further damage the housing.

Thanks again!

Chuck

I cut the finger tip from a surgical glove, inserted the valve "tube" into that and re-inserted the tube into the housing. THAT stopped the leak. I will have to pull the "tube" from the housing to drain the unit but that is no big deal. At least it no longer leaks.


Cheers

Chuck

I cut the finger tip from a surgical glove, inserted the valve "tube" into that and re-inserted the tube into the housing. THAT stopped the leak. I will have to pull the "tube" from the housing to drain the unit but that is no big deal. At least it no longer leaks.


Cheers

Chuck

Fantastic, you can be sure I am going to try that on my leaker too.  Tried pulling the valve out of a new one but it was slightly undersize and leaks.  The old one probably sun stressed and broke off. +1

I had this happen on my PC a while back and had my mechanic replace it.  I don't think he had a great problem doing it, but I obviously wasn't going to do it.  What I observed on this valve and on ice chests I've owned is that the entire body around the valve is usually getting very fragile from sun damage and will likely fail also if you happen to give it a little whack.  I was also sad to find that neither me nor my mechanic could find any metal  direct replacement valve.  As often as this happens, you would think some RV supplier would make a brass replacement.

Jerry

Thanx Ron!! It DID pop out but not without some effort. I slightly damaged the housing and now the valve leaks a bit but at least it turns freely. Any idea what I could use to increase friction and tighten the spigot a bit? I could jerry-rig something but sure hate to further damage the housing.

The valve does snap in to seal.  With the thin film of Vaseline, I am able to get the turn-part to snap back in to seal good.  Vaseline is safe for drinking water.

Be sure it's all the way in to a "snap".

Adding for reference, This is the type I am referring to.  Not the entire assembly, just the spigot itself.

Obviously, Kemit and the staff at PC read and listen to what consumers have to say for my new 3100 has a nice little trap door cut into the bed plywood and you just reach in and turn the valve and the water drains  right out the bottom of the coach and the hose has to be atleast 3/8" so the draining process is very fast compared to the out side twist valve.  The 3100 came with a winterize anti freeze valve  as well, one less thing I have to add myself like  i had to do on my  2551.  This would be a very easy DIY project and just  leave the outside valve unattched.   Nice that PC is constantly making updates to the product line.     thanks