Alternative Fridge?

On our 2011 - 2552 the fridge is stinking of Ammonia once again and although I can’t find the leak I’m sure it’s toast once again.   Other than throwing a few grand to fix it are there any known alternatives that can slide into that same spot?

Hi Joseph:
My 2020 2552 came with a Norcold DE0061L.
It is a 12 volt compressor fridge that fit into the standard opening.
It needs about 6.5 amps max 12 volts to run. I assume there is a 12volt line at your refer to run its electronics that should handle it.
The DE0061L is now discontinued but this article describes a pop in substitute for it:

https://rvfridgeguys.com/norcold-technical-blog/norcold-has-discontinued-the-de0061-here-are-your-options/

If my fridge ever dies, I plan to look into a Nova Cool RFU9200. It has separate compressors for the fridge and freezer.
The size "looks" to be compatible but have not confirmed it as a drop in.
It is more expensive than the Norcolds but I believe the dual compressors and Nova Cool quality would be worth  it.
Good luck with whatever you decide!
 

I wonder if the RV fridge industry goes through EPA changes like regular refridgerators, implementing environmentally safer refridgerants that seem to reduce efficiencies.  Our ever common 120v/propane Norcold is a 2007 model year, still going strong.  I dread the thought of replacing it.

In the months and years that followed after we bought our PC in 2007, there was a rash of Norcold doors breaking at the hinge, an issue across the RV industry.  Being proactive, I installed hinge reinforcement hardware..... so far, so good.  That problem seems to have gone silent on RV forums for quite some time now.

Joseph,

My 2015 just went through the ammonia leak on my way home from Canada a week and a half ago.  I have a mobile tech ordering me a new cooling unit and he's expected to get it installed 1st week of Sept.

Yup, $2k expected cost.

I considered a new unit but we still boondocks alot and I wasn't happy with the current draw needed.  I didn't want to run the generator to provide enough power.

But if it goes again, I will see what the latest and greatest thing is then.

Don

I saw this thread  about a kit to convert a absorption refrigerator to a 12v compressor type. Looks like a DIY project if inclined.
JC refrigeration also sells  the “Amish” rebuild  kit for absorption refrigerators.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/norcold-conversion-to-12v-compressor-system-678614.html


https://jc-refrigeration.com/

Removing the unit from a PC requires taking apart the entry door frame. It may be easier to just rebuild the old one inside using a drop cloth?  If you need tips or pictures for how to remove it look up Volkemon on the PC Facebook  group

Ron, how many miles do you have on your rig? Reason I ask is I don’t think just owning a rig for a long time has anything to do with it.  I’m at 90,000 miles of rough riding roads. My first unit went out was on recall, this one of course is not. The beating everything takes bouncing down the highways I’m guess is the main culprit. Well that and everything being made to crap out so you’ll spend on new.

Cal…Since my original post I have been doing some research on JC refrigeration and converting mine to 12 volt or 110.  I’d like to go with straight 12 and avoid the inverter. The concern is the current wiring isn’t going to be heavy enough.  With the fridge in the slide running a heavier wire isn’t easy with the slack when the slide is in.   

Jim, I’ve noticed JC offers a single and dual compressor kit.  We’re on the road so once I get home I’ll give them a call with a load of questions and go from there. Really wondering how much more power is required with a dual compressor kit?   All the reviews ive been able to find the owners were happy with the single compressor. ??


Don, with this being the second time I’ve had the ammonia leak I think I’m done with that route.  I can buy the ammonia Amish kit for around $900. Pretty much the same as changing to 12 or 110.  The work I’ll do myself.  I’m retired so time isn’t an issue. 

Ron, how many miles do you have on your rig? Reason I ask is I don’t think just owning a rig for a long time has anything to do with it.  I’m at 90,000 miles of rough riding roads. My first unit went out was on recall, this one of course is not. The beating everything takes bouncing down the highways I’m guess is the main culprit. Well that and everything being made to crap out so you’ll spend on new.

We are getting close to 50,000 miles.

You are absolutely correct.  Motorhomes in-general take a serious beating as the miles pile up.  The thrashing from being driven is much harder on the house than age, assuming the rig is well preserved during non-use.

It is for this reason why it is very important to do all you can to reduce thrashing where possible.  As I understand, a very quick-fix is changing to those very expensive Koni-FSD shocks.  It also goes without saying that proper tire pressure, not over-inflating your tires, is of great influence.

60 watts is really efficient if a single 12v compressor kit really only uses 5A.
After seeing pictures of 2350 with the refrigerator removed I would agree that the insulation has room for improvement, especially on the top.

Ron, I tried the koni  shocks.  They lasted 40,000 miles.  The only difference in ride was my wallet was much lighter.  I wasn’t impressed and noticed absolutely no improvement in ride… sadly.

Larry.   My fridge is in the slide.   The added insulation is a great idea, Thank you.   I will say up to my ammonia leak over the last few years once my fridge got cold I could set it at 2-3 and any higher would start to freeze items in the fridge.  It always took 6-7 days to get to that point however. My reason for considering the 12 volt compressor kits is supposedly it’s a much faster cool down and hopefully the last time I need to do this.

In regards to the power draw another question comes to mind.  Being running the generator doesn’t bring your batteries to 100% could a person connect a charger to the batteries while the generator is running to top them off?  I’m thinking of a small 15 amp for deep cycle batteries just for this purpose?

Ron, I tried the Koni shocks.  They lasted 40,000 miles.  The only difference in ride was my wallet was much lighter.  I wasn’t impressed and noticed absolutely no improvement in ride… sadly.

Oh my, that is a very poor review on the Koni FSD shocks.

I wanted to buy the Koni-FSDs back in 2018 but couldn't justify the expense and NO lifetime warranty either.  I decided to go with heavy duty Bilstein RV shocks for the price and lifetime warranty.  Admittedly I am a bit surprised how happy I am with them.  I was concerned that the HD Bilsteins would jar our rig more, but apparently there is enough mass and weight that there was no noticable worsening.

Another change I made two years later in 2020, was replacing the front coil springs to a pair of the next rating lesser because our PC front suspension had too much weight capability that created unnecessary thrashing up front.  Our PC still has margin, but not so extreme.  The ride up front is more comfortable, and the house likes it too.

I also adjusted front tire pressure to 55 PSI which could be afforded due to our lighter front end.  Between all the changes I made since 2018, the house thrashes a lot less.  I wished I made the changes when the rig was new, but I was shy in making such changes back then.

In regards to the power draw another question comes to mind.  Being running the generator doesn’t bring your batteries to 100% could a person connect a charger to the batteries while the generator is running to top them off?  I’m thinking of a small 15 amp for deep cycle batteries just for this purpose?

You think like me.

17 years ago, I resorted to an external charger to shorten generator run times.  Because, on trips, the house is in full operation during such charging, the current draw prevents the charger from stating "FULL."  It took me some time to understand that.  There is a huge difference in charging when the house is in full operation, than when the house is shut down.

I took this picture back in 2009.  I practice it to this day during trips.  I also maintain the batteries at home every 3 to 4 months, using the same charger, but at the low 4 amp setting.

Ron, the Bilsteins is what I changed out to. On my jeep as well.  I couldn’t tell any differing ride from the Koni.  Just my 2 cents.


So when you charge with gen running, what amp charge are you using? I’m looking at 15 amp assuming anything less won’t accomplish much during gen runs.