RV Travel: RV inspector recommends the best older motorhome brands

Hey,  " CALCRUISER ",    what spray lube do you use on your slide-out screw jacks ?      Brand ?    Others feel free to chime in.    Looks like a tough place to access,   Method ?
Thanks, Jim

It’s actually super easy. Just extend the slideout then kneel underneath it and look up at the 2 jack screws on the bottom. I use Camco slide out lube spray but Google search suggests using dry lube or a water-resistant silicone spray such as WD-40 Specialist Silicone Lubricant or B'Laster Industrial Strength Silicone Lubricant for jack screws. Wear eye protection of course.

bike chain superlube (any brand synthetic). Just extend the slide out and duck under and spray. Also spray the shiny parts up high on the sides that have to slide too.

I'm very happy with my 2005 (2004?) 2350. It has the solid rear cap with spare, I upgraded the single battery to a 320amp lithium and added a Xantrex whole house inverter (easy to install in the closet floor). Upgraded surround amplifier and speakers, and other comfort things and now it's an ideal motorhome for myself and 2 dogs. Can't believe my Fridge is still working after 21 years and 110,000 miles.

I love reading these posts.  Your updates are very interesting.

I have heard it say that in the pre-2007 models with the single-battery compartment located up high on the driver's side, if you remove the battery tray, two batteries will fit, be it very tight.  Some kind of maintenance-free batteries are smart at that point.  If your 320 amp lithium battery is small enough, I wonder if you could fit two in there.

Thanks for posting your project upgrades.

I'm very happy with my 2005 (2004?) 2350. It has the solid rear cap with spare, I upgraded the single battery to a 320amp lithium and added a xantrex whole house inverter (easy to install in the closet floor). Upgraded surround amplifier and speakers, and other comfort things and now it's an ideal motorhome for myself and 2 dogs. Can't believe my Fridge is still working after 21 years and 110,000 miles.

Nice work 
How many amps is your DC-DC converter? With no wiring diagram for the pre-2007 PC’s I found it challenging to wire in my Victron Orion. I started with the diagram for a dual battery PC with an inverter/ charger, then traced everything in mine and drew up a schematic. If anyone needs one send me a pm.

I swapped a 140Ah group 31 LiFePO4 into my single battery box without any mods to the tray. At the time that was the highest capacity group 31 available but now LiTime has a 165Ah. I know I could have fit 2 sideways by removing the tray, but it’s adequate with a DC television and LED lights, and we don’t camp in temperatures below 45F so the furnace blower isn’t sucking a lot of Ah’s.


My Norcold  is still going strong too. It’s good to clean the hardened old seals with dish soap solution then wipe on a thin layer of Vaseline.  Warning: your ice cream may get too frozen!


Staring in 2018  PC’s could be ordered with the Volta Power System. Who’s got one?

https://www.phoenixusarv.com/blog/phoenix-usa-rv-picks-volta-power-systems-for-generator-free-rvs--66038

Speaking of older Norcold fridges....

Around the time we bought our 2007, there were numerous posts on RV forums of the plastic hinge of the Norcold fridge door breaking.  Replacement doors soon became impossible to find.  Because our fridge door hits the bed before swinging to the point of stress, I felt the problem is of minimal concern, but my head got the best of me and so I bought and installed special reinforcement hardware to assure it would never happen.  It was marketed specifically to address the problem.  I bought two sets and also reinforced the freezer door.

Speaking of older Norcold fridges....

Around the time we bought our 2007, there were numerous posts on RV forums of the plastic hinge of the Norcold fridge door breaking.  Replacement doors soon became impossible to find.  Because our fridge door hits the bed before swinging to the point of stress, I felt the problem is of minimal concern, but my head got the best of me and so I bought and installed special reinforcement hardware to assure it would never happen.  It was marketed specifically to address the problem.  I bought two sets and also reinforced the freezer door.

I would like to do that preemptively too just in case. I was searching for that kit but the one I found said it was specific to Norcolds with dimpled interior panels. Mine are smooth so I didn’t pursue it. Does that sound right?

Quote from: Ron Dittmer on August 03, 2026, 03:32:03 pm

Speaking of older Norcold fridges....

Around the time we bought our 2007, there were numerous posts on RV forums of the plastic hinge of the Norcold fridge door breaking.  Replacement doors soon became impossible to find.  Because our fridge door hits the bed before swinging to the point of stress, I felt the problem is of minimal concern, but my head got the best of me and so I bought and installed special reinforcement hardware to assure it would never happen.  It was marketed specifically to address the problem.  I bought two sets and also reinforced the freezer door.

I would like to do that preemptively too just in case. I was searching for that kit but the one I found said it was specific to Norcolds with dimpled interior panels. Mine are smooth so I didn’t pursue it. Does that sound right?

That sounds vaguely familiar although I can't say what is dimpled versus not dimpled.  Study my pics.  Maybe you can compare my 2007 to your older one.

I would call the 800 number in the picture.