Waste Discharge Hose Replacement

Ours didn't last much more than 2 seasons.  At least one if not two pin hole leaks.  Oh and there are not in a location where the ground would have caused a weak spot through abrasion.

I need to go back to the RV tomorrow and get the pump model number.  However, I wanted to ask if folks have used the Thetford 97521 or 70424 hoses.  They look similar but one is for the Turbo 700 and the other is for the Twiston.  Like I said I'll get our pump model number, but looking at the Thetford website, our pump doesn't quite look like either.

Oh let this serve as a reminder for folks...make sure you have an emergency gravity waste line.  We have a collapsible Rhino the stores nicely in a plastic container that fits in one of the storage bays.

Phoenix has been using the Turbo since 2015.    My particular PC was the *test* install unit.   It's a 2015 model built in December of 2014 anll has it's original "engineering test unit" label on the macerator itself.   I have replaced the hose and used the 97521 hose.  They are available lots of places, I got mine from Amazon

Update.  For our 2022 2552, we do NOT have the Sanicon pump.  It is a Jabsco macerating pump.  It is some variation of a 18590 pump.  The current model is the 18590-2092 but I think ours may be a previous model number.  I was a dummy and didn't get a good picture of the label.  I'll get a better picture and post it in this thread as well as documenting what hose I end up getting.

The overall picture of our pump installation is below.

Maybe this will apply in your case.

Our original Sanicon hose is now 18 years old.  One pin hole was real close to the macerator so I shorted the hose by that much to eliminate the pin hole.  Another pin hole developed mid-point.  I used a dab of a sealant (don't recall the type) which has held up for decades to-date.

Leaks!  The discharge hose survives ground abrasions, expansion/contraction flexing, and exposure to the vaguries of time.  I wonder how much pressure it can withstand from being walked upon ,or driven over, before suffering damage. 

I think the Hairline Crack in the mascerater housing that I found after purchasing my Cruiser used, was probably caused by impoper winterization and the
Undrained and untreated liquid collection there freezing.

Not everyone thinks to include the drain hose and maceration system when flooding the RV utilities with antifreeze in readiness for winter

Leaks!  The discharge hose survives ground abrasions, expansion/contraction flexing, and exposure to the vaguries of time.  I wonder how much pressure it can withstand from being walked upon ,or driven over, before suffering damage. 

I think the Hairline Crack in the mascerater housing that I found after purchasing my Cruiser used, was probably caused by impoper winterization and the
Undrained and untreated liquid collection there freezing.

Not everyone thinks to include the drain hose and maceration system when flooding the RV utilities with antifreeze in readiness for winter

Further Update - Mainly updating to help other owners of newer versions that will eventually run into these issues.

Confirmed the pump is a Jabsco model 18590-2592 which is 12V and pulls 16 amps.  I'm going to reach out to Phoenix and see if they can tell me what they did on the suction side of the pump to connect to the waste system.  The pump suction doesn't look like the standard Jabsco pump.  Not that it is an issue now but will be when I want to service or replace the pump.

We are fairly certain they used a Sanicon Twist-on 1" retractable hose (7' normal length and expands up to 21') model 70424.  We've ordered one and will confirm when I replace it.  Odd that this hose is used because Thetford has discontinued the Twist-on pump, so who knows how long the hose will be available.

In another issue related to the SANICON Systems remote control feature, I notice that on my unit, the Waste Tank Block Valves audibly strain the motors during the open/close process.  Concerned the gate valve operation is in excess of the motor load rating, I have tried lubricating the valves.   And as part of the effort to free their movement, I exercised the valves manually.  The effort included application of kinetic energy (hammer) and resulted in little change, if any.

Replacement of the block valves is the obvious next step.  I plan on accomplishing that later this month when I return to the unit for a planned cross-country trip.  Illustrated as an easy process in Online Videos, I wonder if the "sticky" operation is indicating more severe problems.

I wonder which valve model is the proper replacement.  I would like to pre order and have the parts available immediately upon my arrival

In another issue related to the SANICON Systems remote control feature, I notice that on my unit, the Waste Tank Block Valves audibly strain the motors during the open/close process.  Concerned the gate valve operation is in excess of the motor load rating, I have tried lubricating the valves.   And as part of the effort to free their movement, I exercised the valves manually.  The effort included application of kinetic energy (hammer) and resulted in little change, if any.

Replacement of the block valves is the obvious next step.  I plan on accomplishing that later this month when I return to the unit for a planned cross-country trip.  Illustrated as an easy process in Online Videos, I wonder if the "sticky" operation is indicating more severe problems.

I wonder which valve model is the proper replacement.  I would like to pre order and have the parts available immediately upon my arrival

This is a change of subject, from macerator hoses, to tank valves, but here I go.

Our 2007 2350 is the year Phoenix introduced a macerator system into all PCs, the original Sanicon.  I call it "First Generation Sanicon."  It has electro-mechanical valve controls.

As the years passed, I noticed the black tank valve straining worse and worse.  Lubicating it from the outside never made a difference.  4 years ago, it got to the point of concern so I took apart the black waste line to replace the valve which revealed the problem.  The round rubber gasket that the waste gate passes adjacent to, was deformed.  I could have cleaned the valve and replace the deformed gasket, but I already had in-hand, a new valve of another brand.  The installation went without issues, and the results solved the original problem.

I cannot speak for newer model years, but our 2007 Sanicon system uses generic manual waste gates (valves) like this.  The electro-mechanical mechanism around it attaches to the "T" handle.

I appreciate the reply.  The response includes a picture and answers my question precisely.  Thank you!

Considering the subject within the original forum being directed to replacement parts for the discharge of holding tank residue, I posted without intending to change the focus.  Or, deliberately wonder into an unrelated topic.

When ordering the replacement block valve, the online options include a variety of choices.  I wasn't clear about the mounting choices.  The alternative to the option suggested in this reply, mounts over the pipe.

Considering the mechanical difficulty associated with the valve operation and being doubtful the motors were intended to operate under conditions with continued and excessive strain, I am going to replace the valves.  Nothing in the forum suggests an appropriate basis for deciding on replacement.    I have already tried and been denied results from various approaches told for lubricating the valves.  Smearing grease on the operating handle stem.  Creating a small diameter opening above the valve handle and inserting water resistant grease into the valve case.  Pouring proprietary valve lubricant into the holding tanks. 

Multiple suggestions about lubrication alternatives.  Nothing indicating when valve replacement is appropriate.

Good discussion.  Speaking of valves, I'll try to get a snapshot of the existing to compare against earlier Phoenix models.  Based on the changes I've already discovered in the waste system from earlier models, I might as well see if the valves are the same.

On the topic of waste hoses, I replaced the hose today with a Sanicon 70424 and it is an exact replacement.  No leaks and very simple to replace.  Based on the fact that ours didn't last a full 2 years, I'm planning on replacing right before each season's de-winterization.  It may be overkill but I'm really not interested in taking a poop shower.  My luck it would happen at the most in opportune moment.

Taildragger,

I went through the same thought process.  Most waste gates (valves) for sale, include a flange on each side like this.  In-fact, the one I bought, included them.  I simply reused the flanges attached to the Phoenix plumbing.  Remove the 4 small bolts and the new one is as previously shown.  The old valve slips out, the new one slips in.

When selecting a valve, I advise to pick one with the same outer shape just to avoid potential issues.  The two shapes might be interchngable, but why chance it?  The picture above has angled indentions.  The one below does not.


Replacing the round rubber gaskets is very easy.  If you are on a tight budget, you could clean up and reuse the original valve.  Just replace the 2 gaskets.  I cleaned up my original valve and keep it as a spare.  I also bought an extra pair of gaskets to have on-hand for a quick repair.  It seems that I always discover a little problem right before we are ready to leave home.  I am a man of many spare parts.

Replacing a stuck sewer valve is represented as a simple and quick fix.  Something that doesn’t take complicated mechanical skills.  Rather than as a method to save money, I consider being able to fix little problems is a way to ration time by doing repairs without going thru a shop.  Finding someone to work on a RV often involves being told to find a qualified RV technician.  Invariably, that requires making an appointment and could involve a delay of several days.

At this point, I figure the simplest and quickest approach is to replace the “sticky” valve with a new one.   Replacing the valve prior to it becoming completely clogged and stuck allows me to choose when and where to make the repair. 

A friend suggests a method for inserting the replacement valve fixture during reassembly. Maintaining gasket alignment is the issue of concern.    He recommends sandwiching the Block Valve Gaskets between thin vinyl plastic sheets.  That envelops them and in their groove as the assembly is slid into the tight space.  Once the assembly is in place, the plastic sheets can then be removed before placing the hold down bolts.

My block valve doesn’t leak.  I think the gaskets are properly seated.  Once removed, I’ll see if is salvageable and get new gaskets to keep it as “reconditioned”.

Just FYI: My deformed gasket did not leak to the outside.  It was deformed on the inside, causing the drag on valve movement.

That one on amazon is not perfectly square.  It has those indents, not sure if it is the best choice, but maybe it will work just fine.