Valve Stem Extensions

I replaced the braided valve stem extensions on my 2016, 3100. I went with the Borg solid extensions for all six wheels. These were just installed, but I’m very happy with the way they look and how secure they are. It seemed like every time I touched the other braided extensions to put air in or check pressures. Something would leak. This didn’t happen every time, but it was frustrating. The kit for all six wheels was $160.

I also installed the same extensions on my 2012 3100. Very satisfied! I added the TyMate TPMS and it works perfectly. No more crawling around on my knees every morning checking tire pressure with a guage. Just turn on the TyMate and wait 30 seconds and all six tires register pressure.

I also have a tire pressure monitoring system. This is stuck to the windshield on the passenger side down low and does not block my view of anything. I can see it very easily from the drivers seat and it works great. It picks up the tire pressure in my toad as well.


GUTA Trailer Tire Pressure Monitoring System, Trailer TPMS with 10 Sensors, 6 Alert Modes, Signal Booster, Power Saving Display, Long Sensing Distance, for 3 Trailers (T1/T2/T3), for RV, for Trailer

Not really a fan of TPMS.  In fact, I resent the imposition of Federal Regulations mandating their inclusion on new vehicles.  Time sensitive and proprietary equipment doomed to fail, I elect to not replace when one does.  Finding a tire shop willing to install new tires without replacing the timed-out and brand sensitive sensor isn't that difficult. 

However, finding a tire shop willing, or able, to install solid valve extensions has proven impossible.  The extensions require bending in order to be centered in the wheel opening.  Anything tubular requires a bending tool.  Conduit, exhaust, and fuel lines are good examples.  I have contacts with a half dozen tire shops and nobody want so to undertake the risk.  Even to apply a quarter inch "tweak".

Have you found a source selling custom fitted valve stem extensions that can be ordered based on Make, Model, Wheel Type?

Amsoilman,
I was lucky to find a shop that would install and bend my valve extensions. Talking to the tech, he said there was a slight bend needed on the inside dully. You might have the extensions installed with out the hubcaps then bend them yourself. You also could make the ovals in the hubcaps larger with a saw. Just a thought.

Amsoilman,
I was lucky to find a shop that would install and bend my valve extensions. Talking to the tech, he said there was a slight bend needed on the inside dully. You might have the extensions installed with out the hubcaps then bend them yourself. You also could make the ovals in the hubcaps larger with a saw. Just a thought.

Stainless steel doesn't "saw" very well, it's too hard.  It can be ground with a fine diamond grinding wheel but will leave quite sharp edges.

In any event. I just use standard pop-in truck valves and my Tire Minder sensors that just screw onto the valves.  Yes, you have to remove the hub cover (simulator) to add/reduce the air pressure but that's quite easy with a truck dually inflator on the air hose.

I carry a pry bar and rubber hammer to remove and put back on the hub covers.  Very easy for me and I am 80 years old.

I used a drill with a grinding stone bit to slightly enlarge one of the holes in each  rear wheel liner. Simple job. Quickly cuts through the stainless steel with no sharp burrs.

I’m running DuallyValve stems (not extenders) with TireMinder  TPMS  sensors. For removing the sensors to add air I use a regular  open end wrench on the jam nuts instead of the flimsy TireMinder  tool that’s hard to position in tight spaces.

This topic was expounded upon in an earlier post

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=2080.0

Looking for a source of custom fitted metal valve stems that are matched to Make, Model, Tire Size, and Wheel Type, I found this supplier.  I haven't received them, but I understand they are not extensions.  They replace existing valve stems and are mounted in the wheel.

https://yourtireshopsupply.com/manufacturer/38/borg-equipment

Looking for a source of custom fitted metal valve stems that are matched to Make, Model, Tire Size, and Wheel Type, I found this supplier.  I haven't received them, but I understand they are not extensions.  They replace existing valve stems and are mounted in the wheel.

https://yourtireshopsupply.com/manufacturer/38/borg-equipment

DL1EC for 1992-2007
DL1FC for 2008-present
https://www.shinyrv.com/product-category/dually-valve-stems-mfg-by-borg/

I took my motorhome to a garage that I’m familiar with. I told them what I wanted and I gave them the parts. I asked them to remove the tabs where the flexible lines attached to the center hub and they did. They balanced the tires and everything is holding air like it should and my cost was just under $200. It gave me peace of mind so I’m happy and the extensions look good and will be easy to add air if needed. The front extensions stick out a little farther than the stock ones. Every time I took my TPMS off of the front tires, it would drop inside the hubcap and I’d have to take the hubcap off as it was so short.

So....if you replace the valve stems with permanent extensions, how do you rotate the tires? I normally rotate RF to outer LR and LF to outer RR.  But then the extensions would be wrong.


Do you swap the valve stems, or not rotate?

I think you would only be able to rotate your tire side to side. Inner dually to the other side, inner Dually and outer Duallyto the other side outer Dually.

I don't rotate my PC tires.  Instead, I let the 4 rear tires wear where they are for a more "even" weight distribution.  Rotating a tire with lots of thread next to a tire with less thread that was not worn that way naturally, will put more force on the tire with more thread.  That is my thinking though I am not sure it is the "right thinking."

Then I switched to Alcoa wheels and hard valve stems which surely put to rest any thoughts of tire rotation, except for doing what Amsoilman states.  Still, I am leaving every tire wear naturally, right where they are.  In my case, "tire wear" won't be the factor in changing tires.  Age will as it has been with us and our PC.

You all make me feel like I am really under-thinking things when it comes to tires, stems and TPMS!

For as long as we have owned our 2007 2350 (since 2020) we've driven 45K miles and have used a cheap-o made in China (aren't they all?) TPMS system that uses senders on the end of the valve stems, and cheap-o braided inner dually extensions, and I've never rotated any tires. Never had any issues with any of that. Got new front tires after 30K miles and rear tires after 40K miles due to tread wear. Now I'm worried that some disaster is lurking!