2007 Ford E350-V10 PC-2350 - After 2 Years Stored In Climate-Controlled Garage

For you who may be curious as to the consequences of leaving your PC sit for 2 years idle.

During the past 2 years, our road trips did not involve our PC.  So our PC sat in our garage hybernating all that time.  Last week, we went on a 700 mile round-trip journey, the first time anything operated in 2 years.

2 years ago, I disconnected all batteries and charged them up roughly 3 to 4 times a year at a low 4 amp setting.  The batteries performed perfectly with no degradation that I could notice.

The gasoline in the gas tank was filled to the top 2 years ago to minimize air in the fuel tank.  The fuel was 87 octane with 10% ethanol.  I did NOT add any products like Stabil.

The main Ford V10 engine started right up and ran perfectly smooth throughout our 700 mile journey with no noticable degradation in performance or behavior.  We drove until we burned through the tank of fuel to 1/8 of a tank to get rid of as much old fuel before refueling.  Once back home, we had burned almost through an additional 1/2 tank, so I figure we have an estimated 6 gallons of 2 year old gasoline dilluted in 50 gallons of fresh gasoline.

ABOUT THE GENERATOR
Sitting idle for 2 years did not fair well for it.  It starts hard and runs poorly such that we could not use it during the trip.  Now that we are back at home, I am trying to bring it back to good health.  I will report on my progress.

ABOUT THE WASTE SYSTEM
Our second macerator is now 8 years old.  It works but spins slower than it should.  To wake it up, I used my electric drill with a flat blade screw driver tip and spun the motor to get it going.  This needed repeating with every use.  I am replacing it.

Our black tank waste valve is gummed up.  It is not fully closing.  I disconnected the electro-mechanical feature and worked it by hand to learn that I have to tap it closed.  Working it open/close multiple times was futile.  I could remove and clean the valve, but am going to replace it instead.

Everything else is in perfect working order.  The fridge, furnace, a/c, plumbing, etc. all is well.  Being stored in our garage with rodent traps and poison, and routine insect control, nothing has been compromised by them.

I do NOT recommend storing your PC for 2 years without exercising it.  I am only reporting on what you may experience if you do.

The ammount of ethanol in our gasoline has increased since 2021 too 💩

Maintaining a working generator is crucial. Unscrew and remove the fuel shutoff solenoid & main jet assembly and float bowl. Disconnect  the solenoid wires and try loosening it with a pass-through socket instead of removing the entire carburetor. Spray the solenoid & main jet assembly, and the float valve needle & seat with lots of Gumout. Also remove the altitude adjustment knob and mixture screw to clean that jet, but count the number of turns in and out from the seat  before removing it. There’s one more small jet located behind a tamper proof plug that you will need to drill and remove to access.

If you have to remove the carburetor use a little gasket cement on the new gaskets so they don’t fall out while aligning the intake manifold bolts.

You could also try your luck with an inexpensive Chinese knock-off carburetor, or pay $400 for a genuine Onan part if it’s not back ordered.

Glad to hear you're back on the road Ron!

Concerning my generator.....

Cal, I GREATLY appreciate the instruction, but I am trying some easy remedies first.

Fuel is getting into the carburetor via the fuel pump because the carburetor bowl gets lots of fresh gas in it.

1st action, I sprayed Seafoam product down the throat of the carburetor not running, then while running.  This yielded no improvement.

2nd action, I drained the carb bowl via the drain screw, then spray-filled the carb bowl from the bottom up with Seafoam until it flowed out the air intake.  A 15 minute soak yielded no improvement.  I am currently soaking it a second time, this time overnight, again with Seafoam.

BTW: I can get the generator to run smooth by pulse-spraying Seafom into the carb.  It yields a lot of white smoke as expected yet it runs perfectly, so I assume the fuel passages within the carb is where the problem is.....fuel is not getting to the right places for combustion.  I hope an overnight internal soaking of Seafoam will make it well.  If not, I will follow Cal's tips.

Jim, Thanks for the warm welcome.

Also remove the idle adjustment screw (not the mechanical throttle stop screw) after counting the  number of turns in/out from the factory setting and spray that jet. If you have a good ear for smooth idle it’s not hard  to fine tune, and you can check 60hz at any AC outlet with a Fluke or decent cheap  VOM like Xtech.

Welcome back to the ghost town

Soak the carburetor in acetone.  It's the jet (suction tube) that's gumed up. Just filling the bowl won't do much.  Remove any gaskets first, before you soak it.

Thanks for sharing the info, Ron.     I wonder if  STA-BIL  would have  kept the generator carb from gumming up ?    We store ours at an indoor storage place for the 6 winter months with

STA-BIL in the the system.   Have never started it during that storage time and never have had a problem.  Otherwise it's started at least monthly during the summer.
Jim

What caused my troubles is making the mistake of NOT draining the carb prior to that first winter in October 2021.  This is my first generator issue, learning all I can from you great people.

Here is a brief description of what I tried so far.

After conventional SeaFoam spraying techiques yielded no improvement....

With air filter still removed.

I opened the carb bowl drain and drained all gasoline.

I grabbed an appropriate sized rubber boot (I HAVE AN ASSSORTMENT THAT RESEMBLES THESE), that fit snugly over that drain, but one with extra length to hang below the metal.  I then pierced a hole with a pick in the side of the extra area and inserted my SeaFoam tube.  I then filled up the carb bowl until Feafoam was overflowing out the intake where the air filter is mounted.

I waited 15 minutes, then ran the engine.  No improvement.

I repeated the process, this time waiting overnight.  Some improvement, but not enough.

I repeated the process again, waiting overnight a second time.  I will find out today if attempt #2 makes a difference.

Doing some searching on the internet, I found THIS SEAFOAM VIDEO.  If my effort thus far proves to be a bust, I will try this SeaFoam recommended process.  If that does not work, I will start to take the carb apart per everyone's input here.  I want to give all "less evasive" options a try before tampering with the carb itself.

Stabil?  Like you jimmer, I wonder.

Guys, if all my less evasive attempts are ineffective, I will be reading through your suggestions very carefully.  I really appreciate all your input.

I have my own set of experiences to add to the growing list of trials and tribulations expressed by the league of ONAN Generator owners driving around in their Phoenix Cruisers.  With the subject seeming to be creating more contributions to the FORUM than any other single topic, I have read one story after another about the idiosyncrasies associated with operating the unit.
Accordingly, I try to be especially conscious of the procedures for entering the generator into Storage Mode.  I live a couple of thousand miles from where the RV is being stored and reading about the ill effects, blamed on improper technique, has heightened my vulnerability awareness.
After several successful removals from periodic hibernation, in the past, this Fall I learned how frustrating a non-starting generator can be.  I now think the failure to start is inevitable.   
I pay extra and purchase the last two tanks full prior to storage as REGULAR gasoline. Eliminating most of the Gasohol from the fuel supply for the last run of the generator.  I add stabilizer to the fuel.  I run the generator with the blend and use a block valve installed in the fuel line to void everything from the carburetor on final shutdown.
Following the suggested methods, I was finally able to get the "thing" started.  Somewhere in the process, I lost signal to the HOBBS Meter display on the Remote Control.  No numbers display.  The screen remains blank.  I can't find any reference to that problem.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Aloha... this reply is for "Taildragger."
My runtime meter for the generator failed a few years ago.  No numbers showing.

I found a direct (electromechanical) replacement on Amazon, "Honeywell Hobbs Boat Hour Meter 169635."
Cost $13 and replacement time was like 15 minutes.

Rick John

I got so distracted with THIS woodworking project.  I can't believe it has been 11 days since filling the carb bowl with Sea Foam. 

Anyway.

I noticed some improvement but was not successful in getting the generator running properly.  I will try THIS NEXT.

I'd like to add a fuel cut-off switch.  Most for sale are made of plastic, including what is sold in retail stores.  I bought THIS QUARTER TURN MADE OF METAL thinking it would be ideal to install at the carb behind the Onan cover.  Any thoughts or experiences are always welcome.

Ron,
I added a similar cut off valve a few years ago.  Before I put my 2551 in storage, I shut the valve off and run the Onan until it uses up the gas in the carburetor and leave it shut during storage.  When I come out of storage, I just open the valve, prime the carb (about 20 secs) and I am good to go.

Works well for me.

Ron,
I added a similar cut off valve a few years ago.  Before I put my 2551 in storage, I shut the valve off and run the Onan until it uses up the gas in the carburetor and leave it shut during storage.  When I come out of storage, I just open the valve, prime the carb (about 20 secs) and I am good to go.

Works well for me.

Hi Don.  Did you mount the fuel cut-off right there next to the carburetor?  Or did you mount it below, before the fuel filter and pump?  It is naturally safer to mount it below in case of a fuel leak, but is more susceptible to corrosion and surely an inconvenient location.