EMERGENCY The dog to my MH won't work inside or out.

I can't get my dogs out though the front. It's like there's no tenson on the latch.. It won't work inside or out. Any help?

  If you are in a too-hot or dangerous  situation you should call both 911 and a locksmith.  Or the police non-emergency nr in your area. Are your driver and passenger doors also really locked? Your last resort in an emergency is, unfortunately, to break some glass. Our entry door has sometimes locked both the lock and the deadbolt even when we only locked one of them. Had a locked-out situation one time in our previous Class A but a large sliding window was unlocked and we got in that way.

   

Are you talking about the SIDE DOOR latch?

If so, that's a common problem when the latch arm breaks.  If you are handy, you can replace the whole latch mechanism or buy a new latch arm from latchfix.com but that requires some skill and understanding.

Thanks for your replies. Yes, it's that same side door latch that breaks for everybody, when it breaks. The metal bar just broke and for some reason all the instructions for how to easily get out from this common problem aren't working. I mean, I can get out of the vehicle door but one of my dogs is too big for that. He peed on the floor last night poor thing. He's nearly 10 and had never had an accident.

 I myself am not locked in since I can get out the car door. And we are hooked up and have air conditioning, etc. But eventually we need to get that door open. Unfortunately it's also pouring down raining rn.

I found a couple of links on this and will see if I can figure it out. At least how to get it open. Then I'll go on from there. I posted immediately hoping to get quick answers. Then I researched more.There are already threads here to help. Man this just came out of the blue. I hope I can get it open myself. I will for sure have a spare handy now. The MH is now 10 years old and things re slowly failing. I've been handling it on my own as things break one by one, but this has been one of the more inconvenient things to go.

Thanks for your help.

And BTW, neither door lock works either so IF I get it open, I have no traditionally safe way to keep it closed while I drive it somewhere. I can rig something up, but would rather not.

Update: We got it open (Yay) and one dead bolt works but I don't really trust it. I think we can replace it ourselves IF we get the right one. There seems to be a lot of discussion of what is the best one on a recent thread. Any help on this? If I could get it from Amazon or something that would be easier. But I don't want to be messing with inaccurate dimensions on one and have to keep sending them back, etc.

Is calling PC an option? Or is that useless?

And BTW, neither door lock works either so IF I get it open, I have no traditionally safe way to keep it closed while I drive it somewhere. I can rig something up, but would rather not.

There are 3 screws on the inside of the door latch.  Remove them, plus the two screws on the plate at the edge of the door.  Remove them (after you remove the 3 inside screws. Then, push the whole latch mechanism out.  It will be "sticky" from the seal on the outside.  Once it's out, you can usually remove the broken latch arm.   You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to get the broken parts out.  Now, reinstall the whole latch mechanism and until you get a new mechanism, use the deadbolt as a manual latch.  Make sure you keep the deadbolt key with you!  At least your dog can then go in and out the side door.

If you don't feel confident doing the above, have an RV mobile repair come to where you are and have them do it for you!  At your FIRST opportunity, have the latch replaced or fixed because it is an obvious safety hazard using only the deadbolt to keep it closed!

Quote from: CDWall on July 14, 2023, 08:45:23 am

And BTW, neither door lock works either so IF I get it open, I have no traditionally safe way to keep it closed while I drive it somewhere. I can rig something up, but would rather not.

There are 3 screws on the inside of the door latch.  Remove them, plus the two screws on the plate at the edge of the door.  Remove them (after you remove the 3 inside screws. Then, push the whole latch mechanism out.  It will be "sticky" from the seal on the outside.  Once it's out, you can usually remove the broken latch arm.   You may need a pair of needle nose pliers to get the broken parts out.  Now, reinstall the whole latch mechanism and until you get a new mechanism, use the deadbolt as a manual latch.  Make sure you keep the deadbolt key with you!  At least your dog can then go in and out the side door.

If you don't feel confident doing the above, have an RV mobile repair come to where you are and have them do it for you!  At your FIRST opportunity, have the latch replaced or fixed because it is an obvious safety hazard using only the deadbolt to keep it closed!

Thanks. This is basically what we did before I saw your post. The worst part is I'm sick rn and can barely function or read well. I think my sister and I can manage getting this replaced if we have. good link?

Door Latch failure is an ongoing problem.  There are pages of member replies documenting the frustration associated with the Door Latch frailities.

The problem with finding a replacement is complicated by the manufacturer's poor nomenclature.  Changes were made to the standard product, as the problem evolved.  Undocumented factory design changes made some repair kits incompatible during the interim.

I contacted Customer Support at TriMark. With persistence, I was able to convey my frustration with how complicated something as blatantly simple as finding a replacement door handle is made by their inconsistencies. 

After a prolonged wait for a response to my need for a lock capable of spanning the increased door thickness of a Phoenix Cruiser, I was told the replacement kit is part number 40411-01-K.  $336.58 plus shipping. I was also told the kit contains the interior handle, exterior handle, 4 keys, strike plate and screws.  Curiously, that is what arrived.  No retail box.  No instructions. No sealed parts bags. No manufacturer's warranty.

In earlier exchanges, the Customer Support's response had always maintained an unwillingness to deal directly with the customer.  At that price, it appears they were willing to make an exception.  I don't know what the explanation is.  Other than bizarre.

Lots of replica door locks on the market.  Some available for $125   Trouble is: the less expensive versions contain pot metal parts and are probably short lived for the same reason the original TriMarks failed frequently.

As for using the Deadbolt to secure the door in the absence of a functioning door latch, I was forced to when traveling during the struggle to obtain a reputable replacement.  Opens the door from the inside using the locking lever.  Opens and locks from the outside using the key.  Traveled two thousand miles with no consequences.  The door handle was disconnected by the absence of a door latch and flops when traveling.  No big deal! 

Door Latch failure is an ongoing problem.  There are pages of member replies documenting the frustration associated with the Door Latch frailities.

The problem with finding a replacement is complicated by the manufacturer's poor nomenclature.  Changes were made to the standard product, as the problem evolved.  Undocumented factory design changes made some repair kits incompatible during the interim.

I contacted Customer Support at TriMark. With persistence, I was able to convey my frustration with how complicated something as blatantly simple as finding a replacement door handle is made by their inconsistencies. 

After a prolonged wait for a response to my need for a lock capable of spanning the increased door thickness of a Phoenix Cruiser, I was told the replacement kit is part number 40411-01-K.  $336.58 plus shipping. I was also told the kit contains the interior handle, exterior handle, 4 keys, strike plate and screws.  Curiously, that is what arrived.  No retail box.  No instructions. No sealed parts bags. No manufacturer's warranty.

In earlier exchanges, the Customer Support's response had always maintained an unwillingness to deal directly with the customer.  At that price, it appears they were willing to make an exception.  I don't know what the explanation is.  Other than bizarre.

Lots of replica door locks on the market.  Some available for $125   Trouble is: the less expensive versions contain pot metal parts and are probably short lived for the same reason the original TriMarks failed frequently.

As for using the Deadbolt to secure the door in the absence of a functioning door latch, I was forced to when traveling during the struggle to obtain a reputable replacement.  Opens the door from the inside using the locking lever.  Opens and locks from the outside using the key.  Traveled two thousand miles with no consequences.  The door handle was disconnected by the absence of a door latch and flops when traveling.  No big deal!

This situation with the door latch is ridiculous. I've ordered this one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOTE8BA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope it works but I think, like you, we can manage if we absolutely have to until I can find something else. I'm just happy to be able to get in and out now, and especially to be able to let the dogs in and out. One of my dogs in nearly 17 and she just doesn't understand when things change too much. Having to squeeze out the front passenger door was too much for her even though she was one who did fit. Plus it was storming. Just not a good night at all.

There is an interesting thread posted to the Forum in an earlier response to the ongoing problems with the latch.  If you refer to information there, you'll see claims that RV Designer and Tri-Mark are the same product cobranded in different packaging.
 Reading the entire post, contradictions become apparent.  In direct conflict to my experience, one response claims the RV Designer is more expensive than the Tri- Mark.  Others report their RV Designer replacements break. 
There is a Tri-Mark Repair Kit from LatchFix that repairs the lock.  The toolmaker who makes the repair kit does a great job.  Stainless steel and nicely machined.  Unfortunately, I learned his upgrade wouldn’t fit my superseded version of the lock.  When I contacted him about the complications,  he offered an explanation for what was becoming obvious.  The manufacturer has evolved different versions to overcome the problems.  The changes aren’t documented and faulty product still exists. 
I learned Tri-Mark is manufactured in Iowa and supported by staff in Minnesota.  A forum member claims RV Designer is headquartered in Wheeling IL. 
In what might become an ordeal, be aware various versions and legacy product exists.  Seemingly, without any differentiation made in product number.  I received one with the non-magnetic bolt.  Another that was undersized for the thicker Phoenix Cruiser door. 
Try testing fit and integrity before preemptively installing your replacement.

That happened to me in the middle of a trip in May. My door would not open from the inside, but I could open it from the outside. So I exited from the car door, opened the PC door and let the dogs out.

PS. I ordered a new lock from Amazon and got it the next day by delivering it to the campsite office. If your a little handy and have a Phillips screw driver it is a simple replacement that only takes 15 minutes.

But first check that the screws on the inside door face of the lock did not fall out. If that's the case the lock isn't broken but just needs the screws replaced. Take the lock hardware off and go the the nearest hardware store and get flathead screws that are the correct thread dimensions. Get several different lengths just to make sure they will fit properly when tightened

RV Designer T507 Motorhome Entrance Door Lock with Built-in Deadbolt for TriMark, Regular.
Order it from Amazon for $166

Thanks for all the help. I got the new replacement from amazon today already. Although it is way heavier and looks too big, I think the parts that actually have to fit in the squarish hole in the door will fit. It could be too thick for the door and I might possibly have to replace the striker plate. I can't tell yet. But I have all the tools I need I'm pretty sure.

I'll update if this replacement doesn't work with one that possibly might. I'd like to help someone else if I can. Although all these ones I might suggest will probably still have the pot metal bar that broke. I just need to have something working for now that I can replace myself so I can leave. I'll learn more about a better solution like the replacement kit mentioned in the other thread if I need it later.

I'm sorry this is a common problem because it's one that kind sucks.