Black Tank Drain Valve Sticking

2011 2551

My black tank drain valve will not close all the way by electric power. This rig has the Auto Draw 24130. It will draw the valve open but it will not close it all the way. I can open and close the valve all the way but getting it started opening or finish closing is difficult. It takes some muscle to get it to let loose and some muscle to get it to close the last half inch.

My bet is there is some solid waste build up in the valve pathway on the far side away from the motor unit. Hard to push into and hard to get it to let go.

I really really don't want to have to break that section of septic open because it looks like a serious job with maybe some re-plumbing involved.

Thoughts:
- Fill area with water and some kind of chemical solution which might break down the sludge build up.
- There are four bolts around the valve which is inline with septic drain. Anyone know if just removing those bolts will allow the valve part to pull out and be cleaned or replaced?

Curious if anyone else has tackled this problem before and how they resolved it.

OK. I see that the valve isn't that difficult to replace. 4 bolts looks like and of course a nasty mess. YUCK 

Suggest you use an in-tank treatment that contains a valve lubricant.

I can agree with adding a lubricant at some point but I think that's a delaying tactic if the sticking is caused buy a surface build up on the valve surfaces. I'd think it better to attack the build-up first and then start using a lubricant going forward.

Make sense or am I deluding myself?

I persistently use waste decomposition products. Have never tried lubricants though. I'll add it to my list.

Thanks Don.

Don

What in tank lubricant do you recommend?

Thanks

My 2011 2552 has Barker Auto Draw 24130 actuators. If you look up this model number you'll find the new version of this actuator has the same model number but is NOT a direct replacement to the original. The new Auto Draw 24130 incorporates it's own valve; and it's not a bolt on/off unit; it's one piece and a glue fitting. If one doesn't want to have to modify the drain run you'll need the old version/style of Auto Draw 24130. The Barker Auto Draw 25070 is the direct equivalent of the old 24130 which does not incorporate a valve. Info is out of Barker's mouth.

Don

What in tank lubricant do you recommend?

Thanks

I use coconut oil.  There are also valve lubes sold at RV parts stores and Walmart.  Any of them should work.

My 2011 2552 has Barker Auto Draw 24130 actuators. If you look up this model number you'll find the new version of this actuator has the same model number but is NOT a direct replacement to the original. The new Auto Draw 24130 incorporates it's own valve; and it's not a bolt on/off unit; it's one piece and a glue fitting. If one doesn't want to have to modify the drain run you'll need the old version/style of Auto Draw 24130. The Barker Auto Draw 25070 is the direct equivalent of the old 24130 which does not incorporate a valve. Info is out of Barker's mouth.

The valve itself (a Bristol 3" Valve) and the Barker auto draw are two different things (at least on my 2015),  the Barker mounts on the Bristol with the 2 "top" Valve bolts.  The other 2 bolts go on the bottom of the valve.

Keep in mind, there is a rim on both sides of the valve that you need to loosen up the ABS lines to get the valve itself out.  I just swapped both gray and black valves and to do so, I had to loosen up as much as I could the turbo macerator (mine is the first year they used the turbos) to be able to separate the valve from the plumbing.

The Bristol valve is LaSalle Bristol model 39240 Anonda 3" valve.  $21 at Amazon.

Quote from: thrutraffic on January 07, 2023, 08:36:58 am

My 2011 2552 has Barker Auto Draw 24130 actuators. If you look up this model number you'll find the new version of this actuator has the same model number but is NOT a direct replacement to the original. The new Auto Draw 24130 incorporates it's own valve; and it's not a bolt on/off unit; it's one piece and a glue fitting. If one doesn't want to have to modify the drain run you'll need the old version/style of Auto Draw 24130. The Barker Auto Draw 25070 is the direct equivalent of the old 24130 which does not incorporate a valve. Info is out of Barker's mouth.

The valve itself (a Bristol 3" Valve) and the Barker auto draw are two different things (at least on my 2015),  the Barker mounts on the Bristol with the 2 "top" Valve bolts.  The other 2 bolts go on the bottom of the valve.

Keep in mind, there is a rim on both sides of the valve that you need to loosen up the ABS lines to get the valve itself out.  I just swapped both gray and black valves and to do so, I had to loosen up as much as I could the turbo macerator (mine is the first year they used the turbos) to be able to separate the valve from the plumbing.

The Bristol valve is LaSalle Bristol model 39240 Anonda 3" valve.  $21 at Amazon.

You DA Man!

This topic has my interest because, on a recently acquired Phoenix Cruiser, both the gray and black water tank valves were stuck in an open position.  That was as displayed by the indicator lights on the associated operating switches.  And confirmed by visual inspection. 

Reading about the problem being a common occurrence and having watched several DIY videos on the subject, I was encouraged to exercise the motors while applying kinetic energy (a rubber mallet) in an effort to assist movement of the Gate.  I also lubricated the slide.  A fairly straightforward process. Movement was regained and the Gates on both valves now move with ease.  At least, manually.

As usual with electrical devices, a "Trouble Is" developed.  One of the motors quit working.  There is no response to demands from one switch.  The switch recognizes Drain Valve position.  The red light to indicate "OPEN" illuminates when appropriate. 

I think the motor must have burned up during the period of considerable effort to regain range of motion.  Thinking about the steps taken to loosen the Gate, I think allowing an interval of time for cooling the motor would have been better.  Instead of repeating the back and forth under load.

What is the best solution to my need for replacement? 

Going thru the suggested procedure for loosening a stuck valve, I used a mallet to assist the movement and probably overheated the motor when repeating the open  / close sequence.  Now I need to replace the parts.

I called Customer Service at Barker Valve.  I was confused by the change in the parts numbering  system.  The lady explained the compatibility issue among the replacement valves is electrical. The "New" assembly is wired differently and requires a "New"  switch.   According to her, the old switch won't run the new valve.

According to Customer Support, the new switch will fit in what available space is provided by removing the old one.  I ordered the assembly.  The installation will be a DIY project. 




                                                                                                                                                                                                         

On mine, I drilled a 1/16” hole on the end where the rod goes in , up high.  Then with the red “straw” squirt lubricant of your choice.  Use a small self taping screw to close the hole.  Lube as needed.