Black Tank Valve

If my black tank valve fails, can I just leave it open and use the third valve at the outlet? My macerator does not work so I always dump using a sewer hose. If I replace the black tank valve, do I have to use a Bristol valve or can I use a Valterra?

Presuming that it's an actual valve on the macerator, yes you could leave the black valve open... Although it's certainly not great idea.   On the Bristol vs the Valera, I am 99.9% sure they are interchangeable and that the electric valve operator will work on either.  I say this because my last RV (2008 Forest River Lexington) had Valera valves and I put the same electrical operator on it's tank valves.

Were I you, I would get the macerator repaired, they are so much better and faster dumping the tanks.

Thanks for the replay Don. I've been using the sewer hose since 1989, I just don't want to change. I unhooked my electric actuator, it gave me problems when new. I would like to take the macerator off and replumb the system so I have access to use the gray and black tanks manually. I assume that could be done. Replacing the dump valves looks easy on youtube but the plumbing on the PC feels solid, I assume you need to separate the pipes to slide in the new valve?

Yes, on mine all the pipes joints were "glued" together with ABS cement.  You have to cut the old pipe and re plumb it to the valve, or in your case how ever much you have to cut out so you can install a new valve and remove your macerator.  For the pipe where you cut it, I used a rubber sleeve with stainless steel screw type bands to seal the connection between the old and new sections of pipe. Your biggest problem will be where you locate the valves so you can actuate them by hand easily.  Also how you'll support the new plumbing.

Where did you get the rubber sleeve?

Got the sleeve at Home Depot in plumbing.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plumber-s-Choice-3-in-PVC-Flexible-Coupling-with-Stainless-Steel-Clamps-E62843/305473572?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-305473572-_-N&

In freezing weather that rubber boot will expand and keep your solid pipe from cracking.
 A lot of owners probably wonder why I don't like the macerator. My macerator was wired backwards when it was built. It never worked right and I didn't know why. After a year I was at the factory for service and the wiring problem was  discovered. It only worked correctly for a few months after that then stopped working again so I just use the 3 inch sewer hose
 Thanks again Don.

My macerator was wired backwards when it was built. It never worked right and I didn't know why. After a year I was at the factory for service and the wiring problem was  discovered.

That is very interesting.

My original 2007 macerator failed after 8 years.  I replaced it with a low-cost equivalent DETAILED HERE.  Wiring up the new pump based on red & black wire color-coding, the pump ran backwards.  I didn't realize it at first.  It took some doing to figure out why it ran but didn't pump.  It worked perfect after connecting red to black, and black to red.

See my post on oct 15.

Tarnold, reading your post is what got me thinking. I think my valves are ok. I use Thetford valve lubricant every so often it really loosens up the valves. That's why I like to manually  open and close the valves, I can feel if they're getting sticky. I can't find where the macerator is fastened. Mine on my 2400 looks like the drain pipe from the black and gray tanks is what's holding it to the coach.
 Thanks for the reply.

When we first got our PC 2350 it was only ten months old.   The previous owner was new to RVing and apparently never knew that the electric switches for dumping labels were reversed.   Black was really gray and gray was really black.  Sometimes, you gotta really wonder, like RVrunner's macerator wiring being reversed.   

Several options. More so if your electric valves still work. If you don’t want or don’t use the macerator it’s connected via a bayonet mount. Couldn’t be any simpler to remove. Add a 5 or 7” bayonet extension and you now have a easy place to connect your slinky at the side vs the rear. If you need to keep your current black or gray valve open you can also add a bayonet mounted valterra gate waste  valve to either the rear or side discharge point. I added one to my rear discharge because on the few times I chose to use it removing the cap always dumped some crap (so to speak). I added this years ago and it’s been flawless.

So don’t go tearing up everything or cutting pipes unless you simply enjoy aggravation. There’s easy work arounds.

 
The twist on bayonet valterra waste valve runs around $22-23. A 5” bayonet ext for the side is around $10.

I agree with Joseph.  Simply put, untwist the macerator off and disconnect the wiring, then twist on what you need for gravity dumping.

I advise to deviate in a manner such that you can always revert back to the original design with the macerator.  You never know....one day you or the next owner may want it back.