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Black tank valve

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Tarnold

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Black tank valve
« on: October 10, 2021, 02:10:20 pm »
Original problem is the black tank red blink light will not go off when closed.  It does seem to be closed though, all the way.  The auto valves are barker, black and grey are both 3.  But they have 2 different part numbers 138508 and 138499 but they look just alike(they might be serial numbers?).  There is an adjustment bolt where the barker device ratchets close/open the Bristol slide valve.  It was so rusty had to take a dremmel   and cut it out and replace.  After adjusting all I could(can make the light go out if not attached to the Bristol valve) decided to pull the Bristol slide valve out to see if something was not letting it close completely.  Ive replaced these before on other units Ive had. Just pull 4 bolts out.   Never a problem before except making sure the big O ring stays in place.  No way in hell could I get enough slack using pry bars on the 3 pipe coming from the black tank or the other 3 going to the sanicon to drop out the slide valve.  No adjustment on either end of the 3 pipes to allow the slide valve to drop out.  Seems like it has flanges on both sides into the 3 pipe so it wont drop out.  I can rotate it around but not drop out.  So before I take a recip saw to the 3 pipe and cut it out, any body replaced one of these? Hints?  2013 2552
(Guess I could just disconnect the red light :( ). 


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Tarnold

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Re: Black tank valve
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2021, 05:01:44 pm »
Disconnected the barker electric valve closer and using the manual slides.  Something is not allowing the Bristol valve to fully seat.  Stuck my inspection camera up there but not clear enough to see, can see the valve is closed but cant tell if fully closed. (its not).  Using the black tank wash out for the first time.  Neat feature but cant get enough pressure flow to clear out what ever it is.  With the valve manually closed(and tapped with a hammer) there is still a trickle of water that comes out with the flush turned on.  Flushed at least 10 times.  Got to get that valve out somehow.  Gonna try n call PC tomorrow and see if I can talk to someone.

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Ron Dittmer

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Re: Black tank valve
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2021, 05:39:50 pm »
It sounds like it is time to remove the valve and clean it off your PC, or do what most people do.....replace the valve.
Ron (& Irene) Dittmer

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mikeh

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Re: Black tank valve
« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2021, 06:35:28 pm »
Tarnold, I experienced something blocking full closure of the black valve for the first time on this last trip.  Dumped the tank on full hookups before leaving, and the slide would go most of the way back in, but then jam.  I tried running more water into the black tank and dumping again, but that didn't help.  Tried manually forcing the slide in while activating the electric switch, but that didn't help either.

What finally corrected the problem was back-flushing from the gray tank into the black.  I ran considerable water into the gray tank, opened the black valve (black tank empty), and opened the gray tank valve--a technique I've used in past to balance tanks and reduce my gray tank level.  As soon as I back-flushed the gray into the black, the black tank slide closed fully.  I then emptied both tanks.  I realize I may have just delayed my issue if there is still something in the black tank that can again move to the valve, but right now both are working correctly.

No illusions that this will be of any help to you, but thought I'd mention it.

Mike

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donc13

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Re: Black tank valve
« Reply #4 on: October 10, 2021, 07:57:06 pm »
Original problem is the black tank red blink light will not go off when closed.  It does seem to be closed though, all the way.  The auto valves are barker, black and grey are both 3.  But they have 2 different part numbers 138508 and 138499 but they look just alike(they might be serial numbers?).  There is an adjustment bolt where the barker device ratchets close/open the Bristol slide valve.  It was so rusty had to take a dremmel   and cut it out and replace.  After adjusting all I could(can make the light go out if not attached to the Bristol valve) decided to pull the Bristol slide valve out to see if something was not letting it close completely.  Ive replaced these before on other units Ive had. Just pull 4 bolts out.   Never a problem before except making sure the big O ring stays in place.  No way in hell could I get enough slack using pry bars on the 3 pipe coming from the black tank or the other 3 going to the sanicon to drop out the slide valve.  No adjustment on either end of the 3 pipes to allow the slide valve to drop out.  Seems like it has flanges on both sides into the 3 pipe so it wont drop out.  I can rotate it around but not drop out.  So before I take a recip saw to the 3 pipe and cut it out, any body replaced one of these? Hints?  2013 2552
(Guess I could just disconnect the red light :( ). 



Yes, I have.   However mine is attached to the newer TurboSanicon so the procedure for your may not work.  On mine, coming from the black tank there is a foot or so if straight 3" abs pipe, then a 22.5 degree angle and a short piece of 3" abs into another 22.5 degree angle that is glued to the inlet of the Bristol valve.  I cut the short 3" pipe between as close as I could to the 2nd 22.5 degree that attached to the Bristol.

That left me a 1 to 2" piece of 3" pipe after the 22.5 degree angle that goes to the black tank. 

I then cut the 22.5 degree angle that was attached to the Bristol with the 4 bolts you mentioned removed, the Bristol separated easily.

Took a new Bristol valve, took the outlet side off and reused the current outlet side of the Bristol.  Got a new 22.5 degree angle fot the inlet, lined everything back up and scratch marked the new inlet valve side and the angle, removed the 22.5,abs cement on the Bristol lined up the 22.5 with my scratch marks.  Let it sit 10 minutes then removed the inlet side of the valve with the now glued angle on it.  Got a 3.5" compression rubber coupler with the stainless steel straps that fit snugly over the rim of the 22.5 degree angles, pul loosely on the 2 22.5 angles, put the Bristol valve back together (using the new slip valve, etc.  Tightened the steel straps on the coupler... Done.

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Don and Patti

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Tarnold

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Re: Black tank valve
« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2021, 08:26:42 pm »
Well, if I could get the *&&* valve out I would.  Because I can get the valve to spin around with the 4 bolts removed, I guess the 2 rubber seals are what is not allowing me to pry out the valve.  Just no wiggle room to pry it out without a chance of breaking one of the 4 bolt flanges. Again seriously thinking I can cut the longer piece of 3 pipe and get enough room to drop the valve out.  Lowes has a 3 rubber coupling that I can use as a patch where I cut the 3 pipe.


Donc, Ive already started measuring to put some sliding drawers in that closet over the drivers side bed.

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donc13

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Re: Black tank valve
« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2021, 08:29:44 pm »
Tarnold

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Don and Patti

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rvrunner

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Re: Black tank valve
« Reply #7 on: October 10, 2021, 08:35:01 pm »
Dumb question, why couldn't you just leave your black tank valve open and simply use the manual valve?

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Tarnold

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Re: Black tank valve
« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2021, 10:51:52 am »
Probably could, when things dont work, I try to make them right.  And besides the electric dump valves have spoiled me after having to do it 40+ years the other way.

As I was literally crawling out from under after using a resip saw to cut the pipe, Doug from PC returned my earlier call.  Met Doug at the rally, he did a LOT of fixes there.   He thinks loosening the bracket holding the sanicon pump would provide enough slack to remove.  Owell , maybe next time. 
Postmortem revealed a bit of the rubber seal had torn loose and jammed  in the grove where the slide closes, not allowing it to close completely.  Had to use a dental pick to clean it out so flushing wouldnt have cleared it.    Amazon is out of stock on a Bristol, so ordered a valterra.  Bolt pattern is the same so should work.