Changing out shocks

I went ahead and changed my OEM front shocks for Bilstein HD ones. This change made a huge difference on my previous diesel pusher with 30K miles but is not so obvious when replacing the OEM shocks at 6K miles. The Bilsteins do seem to dampen larger movements better and are a little better on sharp bumps.

As most know, changing the drivers side can be a challenge. I purchased one of the Harbor Freight dog bone wrenches which didn't help removing the OEM shocks since the top nut was 21mm. It did work great for installing the new shocks since the top nut is 3/4".

To remove the old shock I cut down a 21mm deep well impact socket, so it would fit in the narrow space, and inserted a phillips screw driver in the detent hole on the side of the socket to keep it from turning. This worked surprisingly well, didn't have to remove the screws sticking down from the fender above or try to go through the hole in the floor board. No wrestling with keeping a box end wrench on the nut.

Kevin

KEB , never thought about the oem being metric and no idea if HF offers it in metric. In my instance this was the second set of shocks so no metric.

HF has a metric version but it only goes up to 19mm.

As most know, changing the drivers side can be a challenge. I purchased one of the Harbor Freight dog bone wrenches which didn't help removing the OEM shocks since the top nut was 21mm. It did work great for installing the new shocks since the top nut is 3/4".

Kevin

The 'Standard' version has 13/16", which works for a 21MM. (16 thousandths difference)  3/4" works for a 19MM (20 thousandths difference).  Especially when using 6 point. 

Agree the 13/16" should fit a 21mm, however for these nuts a 6 pt 13/16" socket would not go on. A 12 pt 13/16" will go on but not a 6 pt. socket.

Agree the 13/16" should fit a 21mm, however for these nuts a 6 pt 13/16" socket would not go on. A 12 pt 13/16" will go on but not a 6 pt. socket.

Never argue with 'boots on the ground'.   Good to know. THANKS.