Water leak and then some

Don, my unit is older. I don’t have the valve to switch from fill to city pressure on the drivers side. Mine is a gravity fill on the passenger side. It is vented but even with that if you fill too fast it burps back. Just a slower process is all. Right now we’re running off our tank. I’ll try booking up to city at one of our future stops. Once I find the leak I’ll deal with the fix, just an annoyance at this point.

Cal, at that particular camp ground the water pressure was terrible. Hardly enough to rinse the shampoo from my Bald head.  I guess my reference was that the leak wasn’t caused by too mu pressure. I carry a gauged regulator as well.

But alas one problem isn’t solved before another rises. On this last 200 mile run one of the house batteries boiled over making a mess of corrosion. I hit it with baking soda. Once m out of Maine I’ll find a Costco and exchange for new batteries.

Joseph, my 2350 was burping water back through the vent on the outside fill.  I don't have the four way valve being discussed in the thread in our 2013 model.   I checked the vent hose and it had a kink in it which allowed water to overflow from the tank to stop the air from venting.   I replaced the hose with one a wee bit longer and that helped.   Still at times, ours still burps. 

My solution to the burping is simple.   I cut a piece of vinyl 1/2 inch tubing to about a six inch length.   When it starts burping, I put one end of the tubing to the exterior vent at the fill  and simply blow hard into it, forcing any water in the vent hose back into the water tank.  That immediately stops the burping by clearing that vent line from the fill all the way back to the tank.   

I have had to do similar things on other rigs for the same problem over the years and I guess when going down the road with a mostly full tank, sloshing probably puts water in the vent hose.   Overfilling can also cause the same problem with water in the vent line.   I just bend the six inch "blow hose" a bit and it fits right behind the door to the fill pipe.    Easy, cheap and just takes a little blow to clear and stop burping water back all over me. 

Now that’s a great idea. I will give it a try.  Thank you!

So today I’m at the gas pumps and Maria runs water inside. When the pump finally kicked on the cap on the water connection outside popped off and a small amount of water squirted out. Don advised the check valve is on the water pump so I guess it’s time for a new pump. Obviously it seems the water leak was coming from the pump even though I couldn't seem to feel it. Apparently not leaking all the time. Now on a water connection with good pressure there is no leak so my guess is that the campground that had such low pressure caused the check valve failure to show.

So now I’ll search for a new pump. Possibly look for an upgrade from the original.  Anyone who has upgraded, what did you find worth considering?

Joseph,

The city water connector has its own check valve, a simple spring and rubber seal.  It is to prevent exactly what you saw, to stop water from the water pump from coming out the city water connection.

That is a totally separate issue from the leak on the passenger side near the water pump itself.

Oh aren’t you a bundle of good news.  LOL.  So now I need to locate that as well

RV fresh water systems are susceptible to check valve issues because of hard water deposits.  Consider soaking the on-board pump's check valve pieces in CLR, then reassemble with Teflon tape where applicable.

Our kitchen faucet leaked at the handle when the water was turned on, the culprit being hard water deposits.  I disassembled the area, soaked the little parts in CLR, reassembled, and it's been working well for years.

Why replace perfectly good items because of hard water deposits.  Clean them and reuse them.  It's cheaper and much faster than buying a new pump that might have differences requiring modification.

Oh aren’t you a bundle of good news.  LOL.  So now I need to locate that as well

Piece of cake.

If the plug threads are just fubar ?
 https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Valterra/T1020-1EVP.html

Don, so it’s built into the inlet itself. Well you are good news. Thanks.  Right now it’s not bad so I’ll wait till I get home.

Ron. I agree and when I get home I’ll check it out to decide which way to go. Don giving me the info that it’s simply built into the connection was a huge help.

Don, so it’s built into the inlet itself. Well you are good news. Thanks.  Right now it’s not bad so I’ll wait till I get home.

Yes, THAT inlet check valve is built into the inlet itself.
The inlet check valve prevents the built in water pump from pushing water out the city water inlet.   The built in check valve in the pump, prevents city water pressure from flowing into the fresh water tank and overflowing it.

 As to the city water inlet, you may have to get an inlet with a male connector on the inside.  It's easy to get behind the inlet.   Inside the compartment under the driver's side bed (hopefully it's not packed full), as viewed standing inside and looking over the compartment... On the rear left side of the compartment you will see an access panel held in by 4 screws.  Remove the screws, open the panel and you'll see the inside of the city water inlet.  Remove the feed line inside (probably will unscrew) and it should be just 3 screws outside to remove the city water inlet.

Just about any RV dealer or parts store nearby your home should be able to sell you a new one for under $20.

Don, Thank you, very much appreciated!

Don, Thank you, very much appreciated!

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