So you think you can wax ?

I am a fan of sealants on the fiberglass and carnabu wax on the cab.  I use a product call Rejex.  You can get it from Amazon.  I find that sealants work great especially on the fiberglass above the cab, it makes it much easier to brush/spray off bugs.  There are many good sealants out there for cars and I am sure they are all effective. 

Mike, thanks, I’ll look into rejex as well. I’ve tried so many products for major companies like 3m with little success. But I have never tried a individual sealant . Many products claim they remove oxidation and protect all in one which of course falls short.  Which rejex product do you use, I see they have many variables as well.


For a while I had a cabinet so full of diff waxes etc that I could open my own store. I’ve given most away that failed me. For my cars I have had ok success with duragloss but they don’t sit out in the desert sun.

I just use the 16 oz Rejex High Gloss Protective Finish (25.99).  Steps I do on my 2100:

1.  Wash with any good car wash product.
2.  Clay bar entire RV.
3.  Maguiar's carnabu paste/wax polish on the cab.
4.  Rejex on all the fiberglass. 

Since I have been doing this for a while, my fiberglass and cab are in pretty good shape and do not need heavy polishing or rubbing compounds.  I rent cold indoor winter storage and it just sits in the driveway during spring/summer/fall.  I usually have an issue with hard water from my sprinkler system getting on the finish during the summer and the Rejex minimizes any damage and makes it easier to remove hard water spots.  I am not promoting Rejex to any degree as much as I am promoting using sealants on the fiberglass.  The only reason I don't use the sealant on the entire vehicle  is cost.  Maquiar's is much cheaper and works just fine each season for the cab.  The clay bar is the key to any finish work.  I also use the Rejex on the wheels.  Works great there.

mike, Thanks Ill do some research on the rejex. I need to find some info on how it holds up in the desert sun.

CalCruiser. ... I bought some of the Jescar power lock sealant to give a try. I need to remove oxidation first, then Ill try using the power lock sealant and I have so many containers of 3m etc that I'll use one of them up to finish it. I have no idea how it will work but I'm hoping the sealant may help. Its finally going to be under 100 degrees this weekend so I am reluctantly going to start Saturday.

Some days I wish mine had full body paint, others I'm not so sure. Theres a 2012 class A where I store mine with full body paint that the clear coat is pealing all over. I finally had a chance to speak with the owner. He said the entire coach would need to be wet sanded. I didn't pry into the cost but I do know local body shops charge a min of 150 an hour for RV work.

I guess there's no easy answer other than if your able to store it inside like Ron.

Will , I’d gladly pay $300 but you won’t get it done out here for anywhere near that.

I just had a buff and wax done at a fiberglass shop here in Colorado.  $600.

Don, I only got one quote but it was 850.  Even at 600 if I have to get it done twice a year I’m not sure I want to spend that.

I too have my 5th wheel detailed in FL, but I've been happy with Protect All on the PC - Just my 2C
Jack

Finish Restoration?

I stumbled on this thread and am encouraged to learn others are gaining in the constant battle with the layered finish spattered on Phoenix Cruisers. 

I appreciate the gesture and good intentions of PC.  But, after reading reports from many others, I really wonder if the factory clear coat finish is more trouble than what it is worth.

I purchased the unit knowing the finish was blistered and peeling.   After taking possession of the vehicle  China Flu became and issue and I elected to virtually abandoned it in the desert sun for a few months.  Its purchase coincided with the travel moratorium  and covered storage was unavailable until additional units could be constructed.  Although it was thoroughly waxed before being stored,  I understand the fiberglass portions of the unit now looks like a snake shedding its skin. 

What to do next?  The unit is virtually factory new.  With 10,000 miles total use, it is mechanically pristine with new tires and batteries.  Ready to go anywhere back in February, the  restrictions made travel an option with too many consequences.  And now, I expect the commercial camping parks and their exclusive policies will probably reject entry because of its blemished appearance.

What are the alternative options for the finish? 

Tail dragger .   your description of a snake peeking its skin is pretty spot on. It’s what I saw on a class a with full body paint.  He told me the body shops said they would wet sand it. I see on line there are clear coat removal products. Different brands that you spray or wipe on then hose off. How well they work I have no idea. If they are not to expensive it might be worth a try.

Finish Restoration?

I stumbled on this thread and am encouraged to learn others are gaining in the constant battle with the layered finish spattered on Phoenix Cruisers. 

I appreciate the gesture and good intentions of PC.  But, after reading reports from many others, I really wonder if the factory clear coat finish is more trouble than what it is worth.

I purchased the unit knowing the finish was blistered and peeling.   After taking possession of the vehicle  China Flu became and issue and I elected to virtually abandoned it in the desert sun for a few months.  Its purchase coincided with the travel moratorium  and covered storage was unavailable until additional units could be constructed.  Although it was thoroughly waxed before being stored,  I understand the fiberglass portions of the unit now looks like a snake shedding its skin. 

What to do next?  The unit is virtually factory new.  With 10,000 miles total use, it is mechanically pristine with new tires and batteries.  Ready to go anywhere back in February, the  restrictions made travel an option with too many consequences.  And now, I expect the commercial camping parks and their exclusive policies will probably reject entry because of its blemished appearance.

What are the alternative options for the finish? 

Does your PC have full body paint or just lower body paint?  If just lower body paint, is it the decals that are peeling?  If full body paint, is it just the diamond shield on the front cap and so forth that's peeling?

I live in the high desert in western Colorado and prior to that, in the high Prairie near Denver.   My PC has lower body paint and thus decals.  It is not covered when stored, just an outside storage lot. The decals are fading and splitting.   The front cap was dulling but the lower body paint is fine.  I just had it buffed and waxed by a local fiberglass repair body shop.   It looks brand new, except for the decals.

So just wondering what exactly where and what you see peeling like a snake?

Don, I’m betting it’s in low desert.  Wait to hear but my guess.  There is no comparison from high to low desert conditions. I’ve lived in both. I love the low desert but the sun exposure in the low desert to high is like comparing apples and oranges.  I’ll be interested to see where it’s located. I’ve seen it peeling on cars coastal as well but not in the numbers I see out here.  The only way to save it here is under some kind of cover.  I sure wish I had it for mine.  There are places that offer indoor storage but at 400 plus a month it’s just too much for my budget . I keep looking for places with a cover to park under but they rarely become available.

I can offer a better description of what has me concerned.  Based on terminology I have learned from reading about the seemingly common problem from other PC owners, the culprit is the "clear coat" layer of epoxy(?) applied as a finish coat to the surface of the body paint and decals.  The problem is limited to the fiberglass area.  The entire periphery of the camper shell is peeling.  Front, Sides, and Back.  The factory FORD paint covering the doors, hood, and quarter panels doesn't include the coating and therefore isn't peeling.

I have the unit under cover currently.  Hopefully, being shielded from the intensity of direct sun and will offer protection.  Those accommodations were not immediately available and during the period the unit was unshaded any existing blistering doubled in size and scope. 

The mottled surface of the camper shell now warrants some extraordinary effort, in order to make it presentable.  Applying wax before it was parked didn't protect the troublesome coating.  I am curious about the solutions suggested by others responding to this message thread.  One measure was extreme by the sense of normalcy which dictates all effort be directed to salvage what remains.  And, that was aggressive polishing  or whatever to remove the superficial layer of epoxy.

I am aware of the range of options available those times when money is no object.  Aircraft fuselages are decorated and coated with surfaces that are basically impervious to weather and retain the "wet" look of freshly applied paint is one example.   Although available, I don't feel like choosing that option.  I'm wondering if there is a known method to help expedite the peeling and obtain a uniform, unmottled camper shell that I can quit lifting blisters from with my fingernail and focus on reinvigorating the paint with surface treatments.

Taildragger,

The paint should not do that.  It sounds like a defective paint job. 

I would call PC, ask them why a 3 year old unit is having the issue you describe and if they are willing to have it repainted under warranty. I would also ask for the name and phone number of the shop that painted it.  PC does not paint the units, they have one or more body shops they use to do the painting.  Carol at PC can tell you exactly which shop did the painting on your unit.  You can ask PC or the paint shop if they have other similar complaints on jobs from that shop.  Likewise if the paint shop will repair it as a warranty item.

Good Luck!
Don

Taildrager.... theres a thread on IRV2 right now titled “got sick and tired of looking at flaking seal coat”.  I have not read it so I have no idea if there’s any useful info there that may help you but it might be worth a look?