So you think you can wax ?

So, what wax, if any, is easy for fiberglass gelcoat?

First time ever attempt, about 16 hrs of work:

Not liking the Seapower carnuba  fiberglass cleaner-wax that I had in the garage from my sailing days. The end  result looked splotchy , kind of hazy and uneven ( typical for one step cleaner- waxes?)

Also  not liking the 3M Marine Scotchgaurd liquid wax. It hazes almost instantly, so it must be applied to 2’x2’ sections and wiped off with a microfiber cloth almost immediately. It seems like 2 random orbit polishers would be required because it dries too fast to change bonnets.

I ended up compounding the entire rv using a random orbit polisher and Seapower , then applying a coat of  3M Marine Scotchgaurd by hand. Pleased  with the results, but not with either product.  It looks about the same as when I pay Tony the  detailer $200 to do it, but I didn’t  have to wait a month for him to return from 🇮🇹Mexico . And it sure was a lot of work.

I use a product called "The Solution".  Been using it for years.  It's one of those waterless cleaners.  I still wash it first.  You spray on The Solution and wipe it off.  I dont like it on the glass.  Makes the task quick and it shines like snot on a barn door.

Cheers   

Barry T

I can relate to you CalCruiser because I have been there and done that with our first rig (CLICK HERE) which was gelcoat and no paint.  It required lots of work only to get mediocre results.  Barry T's product sounds interesting.

That is why I recommended to Ginny in the intro post, if she is considering lower body paint or no paint, it is wise to consider ordering her new PC in plain white paint only for the house portion to match the van color.  Then add PC graphics to dress it up.  Painting just the house plain white to match should be very affordable and so much easier to maintain a pure white painted PC that will be parked outside indefinitely.

Also save money and delete the Diamond Shield product.  The Ford factory OEM white paint on the van surely doesn't need it.  Use the money you saved on the fancy full body paint job and Diamond Shield to purchase other upgrades.

An all white PC will reflect most of the sun's direct heat.  On a sunny day in a parking lot, place your hand on a white car, and then on a black car.  You will quickly understand the difference a white painted PC can make.  We always schedule our desert region trips to avoid the hottest time of year so we generally don't battle extreme heat.  Every full body paint job does have an unpainted white fiberglass roof (as shown here) which addresses the worst, but our gray-painted sides can still warm up from the sun.


Regardless of all that, we have no regrets getting the full body paint job.  13 years so far and our PC still looks like brand new.  But keep in-mind that we "garage" it when not using it.  It washes and waxes nicely and looks great afterward.  If kept outside all the time, I imagine it wouldn't look too pretty today.  I have seen some 13 year old PCs being sold with full body paint that didn't hold up well.  Most of the "ugly" is related to the Diamond Shield darkening & cracking, and also the clear coat failing.

Here is a section of sun-damaged Diamond Shield like clear film that GM placed in two places on the rear deck lid of our Saturn Sky.  Diamond Shield can get this ugly being out in hot sun long enough.  Removing these two small pieces was "Pure Torture".  I could not imagine removing so much off a PC.

Cal cruiser... I feel your pain.  I have yet to find a wax that will last in the southwest sun. Best I’ve ever gotten lasted about 5 months, actually less in real effective service. Kept in the garage I get 6-7 months. Cheap products I get 2/3 months at best.  Full body paint is nice but if your unit sits outside the southwest sun can make short work of the clear cost. Wasn’t that long ago someone posted a pic of a PC they were considering that the clear coat was shot. Probably at a minimum 10 grand to remove and repaint.  Heck a good complete car paint job is 12-15 grand.

I have been pleased with this product. https://www.amazon.com/Jescar-Power-Polymer-Paint-Sealant/dp/B076ZWMD2G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2L237ZNK6RORK&dchild=1&keywords=menzerna+sealant&qid=1602021584&sprefix=menzerna+sea%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2FYWYS5HRG3VU&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTlRGNFNRTDBDUzFIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODA0MjQ5MkgwM05OQkYwSDFPSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDA5Mjc4M0JXVjZEVkQ2NzZYVSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


 It is not a wax but a polymer sealant.  I use it on our cars as well as the PC.


I use a random orbit buffer to apply the sealant and a microfiber towel to wipe off and polish.  It is easy to apply and polish but there is a lot of surface area on a 2552 so it is not my favorite past time.


Not sure why but just noticed the price has gone up considerably since the last time I ordered it.

Fandj..... this is a new product to me.   How has it held up? I’m constantly searching for something that will hold up to the desert sun.

Coming from the old school, for many years I relied exclusively on high carnuba content paste wax for my vehicles.  It was quite a job to polish the wax residue off after it dried.  While it certainly enhanced the shine it stopped rain beading within a few days/weeks.  As newer products become available in the market I tried some of the polymer based sealants and found them much easier to apply and appeared to last longer.


We live in the southwestern part of Virginia which gets its share of both rain and sun.  While I am able to park my cars in the garage my PC lives outside 24/7.  Having travelled in the southwestern high desert areas i know the intensity of the sun is much greater than here at home.  The other thing to note is I don’t have a way of actually measuring the effective life of any waxes/sealants.  Take my comments as purely subjective based primarily rain beading, shine, and slickness of the finish.  While wax seems to disappear after a month or so the Power Lock polymer sealant appears to be providing some protection for several months up to maybe a year.   I have used this product for five plus years.


There may be (?) some of the even newer ceramic coatings that provide better protections I just don’t have any experience with them.

Dry Wash and Guard is an awesome product, I think it is the original waterless car wash. Been using it for decades now. Easy to use as directed. Do small areas at a time and nearly effortless. I always have some in the coach and will pass the time shining up an area or section. Surprising how dirty it can be and not harm the surface. Takes the pain out of having to do the whole thing all at once. Kinda like painting one side of the house each year.
Dougn

Fandj.    Thank you, I know it’s a crap shoot with the desert sun but it’s a product I haven’t tried so I think I’ll give it a go. It can’t be any worse than many of the others I’ve tried.

Fandj ... reading the reviews on the sealant. It sounds as if I first need to use a rubbing compound or gel coat restoration prior which makes sense. Then after applying the sealant it seems I need to wax over the sealant?   If that’s the case I’m not so sure I want to undertake the task. I’m a long way from my 20’s in a three hard step project.  Did you find you needed to add wax over the sealant?


I’m already dreading the first step but I know it has to be done.

Applying any waxes or sealants will yield  a slicker and shinier surface if embedded dirt and oxidized paint is removed first.  As to applying wax over the sealant I don’t do that other than I typically will use a wash and wax product such as https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_48?crid=35OKCTVOPK1EC&dchild=1&keywords=wash+and+wax+car+wash&qid=1602362822&sprefix=Wash+and%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-48 for washing in between applications of the Power Lock.  Don’t know how much that Optimum wax helps but since I am washing anyway any protection I get is a bonus.  I also find this product useful to take on extended RVing trips as it can be used to remove light dirt without the need for rinsing.


As to rubbing compound I have never had to do use them.  I started using the sealant not long after we picked up our PC from the factory so the paint started out in good shape. 


I have used this product on the hood, windshield, and front end to remove embedded dirt occasionally.  It has also worked well on our cars. [size=78%]https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=sr_1_1?crid=25KG7DE2YO00J&dchild=1&keywords=nanoskin&qid=1602361175&s=automotive&sprefix=Nano%2Cautomotive%2C189&sr=1-1[/size]


  The NanoSkin sponge is relatively easy to use and makes a significant difference in smoothness   I tried clay bars previously but I found I like the Nano Sponge better.


No doubt if your paint is badly oxidized it will benefit from being buffed with a rubbing/polishing compound.  I have thought should I ever have to use these compounds I probably would seek out a professional as I may end up being too aggressive and damage the paint.

Fandj... I’m not concerned with the rubbing compound.  Any oxidation remover is just another name for rubbing compound., it’s just a matter of the cut.  Years back I did a couple of boats I owned.  I’ve always done it by hand with great results. In this case I don’t need to do the painted section, just the gel coat but I’m certainly not looking forward to it, especially the front cap. Once the weather cools down I’ll give it a shot, we’re still on the triple digit 104-105 next week so it will be a bit. Thank you for the info.  I’ll keep my fingers crossed and hope it does the trick.

Years back I did a couple of boats I owned.  I’ve always done it by hand with great results. In this case I don’t need to do the painted section, just the gel coat but I’m certainly not looking forward to it, especially the front cap.

I have been reading good things about Meguiars 50.

I'll give you a quart of Seapower the next time you are up in the Ventura area LOL

When I do it, I simply use McGuires or Mothers Carnuba cream.  Easy on, easy off.

Easier yet is the Detailer who will do it for $300 once a year......  Looks even better when he does it.

Will , I’d gladly pay $300 but you won’t get it done out here for anywhere near that.