Accumulator Tank

Next project in the works is insulating the knocking water pipes.  Did all that, but the water pump is still REALLY noisy.  Is the below a good tank to use?



SEAFLO Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank (2 Gallon)

Next project in the works is insulating the knocking water pipes.  Did all that, but the water pump is still REALLY noisy.  Is the below a good tank to use?



SEAFLO Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank (2 Gallon)

I had accumulator tank installed during the build.  I have considered having it removed.  I must admit that in 2 years, I have not checked the air pressure nor do I know what the proper pressure should be.  My pipes chatter like the dickens. 

I would not have it installed again.

Cheers
Barry T

I initially tried a 2 gallon tank and couldn't get it to fit where I wanted it ..under the bathroom sink of our 2552. Went with the smaller sea flow tank. I was hoping it would reduce the cycling of the pump but didn't notice a change. So, for me wasn't worth it. The larger tank may have made a difference but no room for it for us.

  Thanks for the replies.   I had to take the bed apart and go in and use 1/2 foam pipe insulation around the pex piping.  1st thing I noticed was how dirty it was in there.  Stuff from the factory.  But this ain't the 1st RV that the factory took about 10 to vacuum.  Anyway, the pipes basically are so loose and not secured that they rattle bad.  After I corrected the pipe problem, the pump is still noisy, therefore inquiring about the accumulator.
  What problems did/are you having that you wouldn't have installed an accumulator?

I added a 2 gallon tank 2 years back. Cost is about $40 give or take a few dollars.  I get absolutely no knocking and I don’t believe it causes any. It definitely reduced the amount of pump cycling as I timed the run time before and after install. I did need to play with the air pressure a bit in the beginning.  Growing up we always had a well with a pressure tank.  Rattling pipes in homes is not caused by a pressure tank, city water or well system and I doubt it can cause it in an RV. In the home the banging pipes is caused by air in the lines.  My rig is a 2011 and I’m looking to upgrade my pump this coming year.

I wonder if any pump out there would be much quieter considering it’s location.  It’s right next to the vent so no sound insulating factor to speak of. 

I had only a small space under the curb side bed in our 2551 to put one so I got this small one. You have to pressurize it (mine is 50psi) occasionally for it to work. You don't want pressure in the water lines when you do this. It is not hard to do. It does a great job of eliminating rattles and reduces the frequency of the pump running.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MVA6GCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the same model (2350) as Ron has, therefore bunches of room do things under the bed.  I have also read that 12-18 inch flexible hose looped also works. 

For what it's worth, I do not and have not had an accumulator.  Yes, on occasion, in particular after being hooked to City water and then back on the pump, the pipes behind the toilet would rattle a lot.   I have found getting the air out of the external AND internal shower head helps a lot.

I also had a problem with the low point drains not sealing properly and so the pressure would leak off.   I replaced the low point drains with brass 1/4 turn ball valves.  Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to be on the road since I did that.   Gopher has been in the shop getting the hail damage fixed.   A lot of waiting for parts due to covid

Don

The pump running quieter with less on/off frequency is the benefit I found. And even my small one works well. I imagine a larger one would only do a better job.

Thanks for all the replies.  Just because I could I cut 2 pieces of white drinking water hose and made loops on the water pump after fixing the rattling lines.  Holy smokes, after the water ran all over and my butt was soaking wet I turned the pump on.  Had to be really quite to hear the pump running when it was.   Guess I will go that route for now. 

Owning a motorhome is like buying a motorcycle.   They sell you a starter kit; Then we add the necessary bling!   

Owning a motorhome is like buying a motorcycle.   They sell you a starter kit; Then we add the necessary bling!

I know.   I just sold a motorcycle and have a can am spyder rt.  Gotta a couple more things to do to it.

As long as I gotta drain the water from the tank I am thinking of putting in a shut off valve between the tank and pump.  Anyone do this?  What valve did you use?

Thanks

On my past RV's, I have put a blow-out T connection so I can blow out the water lines for winterizing. Similar to this:

https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/pump-converter-winterizing-kit-kit-36543?variant=30756771004504&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6OCIsOnA6wIVdSCtBh1-1wFaEAQYFSABEgLKs_D_BwE

It has a two way valve, goes on the suction side of the pump and switches from drawing from the tank or drawing from the plastic hose.  I just put an air line adapter on the plastic line, set my air compressor to 40 psi, opened the faucets one at a time and blew out the lines.

Anyway, setting it to draw from the plastic line shuts off drawing from the water tank.    Otherwise, I am not sure what the benefit would be of just a shutoff valve.