Liquid Springs vs MorRyde

I currently have More Ryde on my 2552 order but am considering upgrading to Liquid Springs before its built.  Curious to know:

1) Who loves each one and why?
2) Maintenance required for each one?
3) Any reliability comments on either?

Thanks everyone!

Phil: I went with the LS and the Safe-T-Steer.
But again like my refrigerator, I haven't put a lot of miles on it.
I can say my PC rides WAY better than my previous SOB Class C and is actually a pleasure to drive.
I also feel the combination adds a level of safety in addition to the nice ride.
But I have never driven a PC without LS so cant really compare apples to apples.
It seems to be low maintenance (i.e. check for leaks on your driveway  )
And I haven't had any issues to date.

Good luck on your new PC!

Another vote for LS.  When purchasing our unit they had one with and w/o LS.  I test drove both and it was night and day difference.  I wouldn’t have an E450 coach without them!  Additionally I think a unit will hold up much better long-term with them because of the greatly reduced pounding on rough roads.

I currently have More Ryde on my 2552 order but am considering upgrading to Liquid Springs before its built.  Curious to know:

1) Who loves each one and why?
2) Maintenance required for each one?
3) Any reliability comments on either?

Thanks everyone!

When we traded in our 2007 2350 (E350) for a 2019 2351 (E450), we opted to get the Liquid Springs and Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer.  After nearly 5000 miles, we don't regret our decision. 

One of the features I like about the Liquid Springs is the ability to raise/lower the rear end of the RV.  I use this feature every time I back the RV into the driveway to keep the tow bars from dragging on the concrete.  On the 2007 RV, I would always have to remove the tow bars from the hitch, otherwise the tow bar would drag when I would go up the incline of the driveway.  Now I can leave the tow bars on, I just raise the RV before I back up and it clears with ease.   This saves time plus I can just keep the tow bars on the hitch without having to find a place to store it. 

I also found that having the ability to raise and lower the rear of the RV, it has lessened my need to use the HWH levelers when I park.  Often times I will pull into a site and the LS is enough to get the RV level front to back.  When this happens, I don't even spend the time to use the RV levelers. 

The only issue I have had with the Liquid Springs so far is that the bolts loosened up on the rear sway bar on our trip to Florida causing a clanking noise whenever I made a left turn.  Fortunately we only live 3 hours from the LS factory in Lafayette Indiana, they checked all the bolts to insure proper torque settings.  Even got a factory tour in the process . . . they do have a very modern and impressive factory.

I don't have any experience with the More Ryde system.  I have been curious how they would compare.

Hope this info helps,

JJ

Thanks gents.  Very helpful.  I’ve added LS.  Another 2 months to delivery. 

Quote from: Phil Grennan on June 30, 2020, 08:27:39 am

I currently have More Ryde on my 2552 order but am considering upgrading to Liquid Springs before its built.  Curious to know:

1) Who loves each one and why?
2) Maintenance required for each one?
3) Any reliability comments on either?

Thanks everyone!

One of the features I like about the Liquid Springs is the ability to raise/lower the rear end of the RV.  I use this feature every time I back the RV into the driveway to keep the tow bars from dragging on the concrete.  On the 2007 RV, I would always have to remove the tow bars from the hitch, otherwise the tow bar would drag when I would go up the incline of the driveway.  Now I can leave the tow bars on, I just raise the RV before I back up and it clears with ease.   This saves time plus I can just keep the tow bars on the hitch without having to find a place to store it. 

I also found that having the ability to raise and lower the rear of the RV, it has lessened my need to use the HWH levelers when I park.  Often times I will pull into a site and the LS is enough to get the RV level front to back.  When this happens, I don't even spend the time to use the RV levelers. 



JJ

I'm curious as to how much up/down travel in the rear is available with the LS system? I don't have levelers.
Thanks,

Dougn

Quote from: JJCruiser on July 01, 2020, 02:52:53 pm

Quote from: Phil Grennan on June 30, 2020, 08:27:39 am

I currently have More Ryde on my 2552 order but am considering upgrading to Liquid Springs before its built.  Curious to know:

1) Who loves each one and why?
2) Maintenance required for each one?
3) Any reliability comments on either?

Thanks everyone!

One of the features I like about the Liquid Springs is the ability to raise/lower the rear end of the RV.  I use this feature every time I back the RV into the driveway to keep the tow bars from dragging on the concrete.  On the 2007 RV, I would always have to remove the tow bars from the hitch, otherwise the tow bar would drag when I would go up the incline of the driveway.  Now I can leave the tow bars on, I just raise the RV before I back up and it clears with ease.   This saves time plus I can just keep the tow bars on the hitch without having to find a place to store it. 

I also found that having the ability to raise and lower the rear of the RV, it has lessened my need to use the HWH levelers when I park.  Often times I will pull into a site and the LS is enough to get the RV level front to back.  When this happens, I don't even spend the time to use the RV levelers. 



JJ

I'm curious as to how much up/down travel in the rear is available with the LS system? I don't have levelers.
Thanks,

Dougn

Good question, I was curious about this too so I took a few measurements this morning:

At the bottom of the hitch receiver, the normal drive mode height is 17 inches.  That drops to 12 1/4 inches with LS at low and raises to 20  inches on high.  I was then curious what the max height would be with my rear levelers using blocks to fill the gap between the bottom of the levelers and the garage floor (w/ front levelers disabled).  I was able to raise the rear of the RV an additional 6 1/4  inches to 26 1/4 inches.  So the levelers do add to the range, they even lifted the rear duals off the ground by over an inch with my LS shut off.  That is good to know as it would be important to choke the wheels because I believe the emergency brakes only go to rear wheels.   By the way, it is important to turn the LS off when using the hydraulic levelers.

A measurement I don't have is what the rear hitch height is for a non LS 2351 on a E450 chassis.  I believe the LS nominal drive height is likely higher than the traditional Ford springs.  I know my previous 2350 on E350 chassis sat a bit low in the back.

Remember height changes would vary depending on wheel base of the PC model.  I have a 2351 which is a wheel base at 170 inches.  I also took measurements at the rear wheel well if that info would be helpful.

I was curious what this range would look like on a level so I took and attached some photos.  The first is with LS low, then LS in normal drive, LS high and the final with maxed out rear levelers.  My level probably does not do justice to the additional range  the hydraulic leveler provides.  I used a 2 foot construction level sitting on the kitchen countertop (which gave the same measurements as the floor).  If you are wondering why the level looks more level when LS is low, it is because my garage floor is sloped toward the garage doors to allow any water on the floors to flow out through the garage doors.

I don't think I mentioned this before, but the LS height adjustment does come in handy at the dump station too.  Depending on how level the dump station is, I can adjust the LS to help gravity empty the tanks.

I hope this info answers your question.  Probably more than you wanted to know.

JJ

Thank you. It is a big help.
This is my leveling system...

One more question...does the coach still have the same solid feel parked no rocking sideways) without the jacks on the LS as the stock suspension?

Thank you. It is a big help.
This is my leveling system...

One more question...does the coach still have the same solid feel parked without the jacks on the LS as the stock suspension?

I am very familiar with that leveling system, I have used that method for many many years!!  Works well!

The coach seems very solid with the LS system.  The LS system does have 3 settings for ride control, not sure if that has any impact on stability while parked.  Our 2351 is a lighter coach, so I would guess if it were on the E450 springs it be solid like a rock. I have read that the LS could settle over time as their special "hydraulic fluid" could move from the struts to the accumulator/reservoir.  We have not found that to be an issue on our unit.   

JJ

  Ironically we had a 2017 PC/2910D for 6 months with the standard suspension and now have a 2019 Model 3100 which came with the LS already installed. I probably have not had enough time to really evaluate but, after 15 years in a boxy diesel pusher, the 2017 seemed to drive great from Texas to South Dakota. We drove the 2019 with LS from Elkhart but did not really know what we were doing and pretty much left the LS in "Normal" instead of adjusting for road conditions. We were just in a hurry to get home and quarantine.

Hank Whitney
2019 Model 3100

2 Lucky, You have a serious collection of ramps and such.

We carry 3 bags of Lynx and a pair of Lynx chocks.  I support only the outer rear tire.  I know, I know, it is not recommended.  But for our lighter-weighted 2350 with no slide outs, I am getting by.

I called Michelin and asked about parking conditions for DRW, specifically where you have to park close to the curb, but the curb is a rain gutter which suspends the outer rear tire.  I was instructed not to worry about it, that the "parked still" condition is not concerning.

Our house has that rain gutter condition of which I had wondered about.  So if it's okay at home, I figure it's okay having one wheel on Lynx for leveling.

Here is our rain gutter condition at home.  If I park our PC just right, the outer rear tire will be in the air.

It is never a good idea to lift just one wheel of a dualie.   Especially when your rear axle is near max load.   Obviously parked is better than moving,  and there are few circumstances (a blowout of 1 tire would be one) where you'd have that when moving.

 

Especially when your rear axle is near max load.

I agree with you.  I admit I don't like doing that on my 2350, but I will do it when running short on leveling blocks.  I would surely not do it on a 2910T or 3100.

Thanks to all for the great insight. 

My 2021 chassis with drivers assist package is hugely delayed.  Barry can’t even tell me when it will be in now.  Delays from Ford and PC claims they ordered in June.