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Help on my 2010 PC 2350

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todd.albin@taact.com

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Help on my 2010 PC 2350
« on: March 25, 2020, 08:34:05 pm »
I am respectfully requesting help on winterization instructions for my 2010/2350.  If anyone has actual instructions with pictures/illustrations and wouldn't mind sharing them, I would be very appreciative.  I live in an area with only 1 RV service center and they are unfamiliar with my particular coach.  The video posted on the forum web is for a 2015 2350 and things are quite a bit different for the 2010.

Based on the photo on this post, I figured out the center valve drains the freshwater tank.  Unsure the other 2 valves and whether they should be open or closed when freshwater valve is closed.

Also, the pressure for my kitchen faucet is very low and unsure why.  Nothing is leaking and unsure if there is a separate valve located somewhere for that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated for the above issue I am facing.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2020, 09:28:54 am by todd.albin@taact.com »

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keelhauler

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2020, 09:21:36 pm »
Your picture is hard to see, but the three valves usually are the hot water tank cold & hot shutoffs and a bypass valve.
There are two small drains teed in near those. Your large water tank has a drain on bottom of tank.

Nothing different in PC from any RV and any RV tech that knows what he is doing could do the job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNi5rPBQYxU&list=PLxUga0bOXD1YknLxMg7aLIMou7xVO82p4&index=4&t=0s

I watched the video and the only thing that is different on older models is you don't have the outside panel. So find your water pump, it has a little 3-way valve on the inlet so you either pump from large water tank or hook up a hose to pump from RV antifreeze bottle.
« Last Edit: March 25, 2020, 09:42:26 pm by keelhauler »



John

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Ron Dittmer

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2020, 08:33:05 am »
Hi Todd,

The key is understanding the purpose of each valve.

I have a 2007 2350 so it's going to be different than your 2010 2350.  If your fridge is inside a slide out which I believe is the first year for that, that increased the differences.  Still, some things will be very similar.

There are 3 valves located on the floor under the galley drawers.  Pull out a bottom drawer and you will find something similar to this.  During the season, the center valve should be closed, and the two side valves should be open.  The valves should be reversed only when adding RV-antifreeze in the pipes.  This prevents the antifreeze from getting inside the water heater so you don't fill it up.


In my 2350, inside the under-bed outdoor storage compartment, there are two valves on the far right.  They drain down on the street.  You can see them in this picture.  When they are open along with the kitchen & bathroom faucets, inside & outside shower, the toilet lever pulled, & water heater drain plug removed, all the water in the lines drain out on the street from those two valves.  The water draining process in our PC is so complete that I would never add anti-freeze in the fresh water system......there is no need for it.  Anti-freeze would be needed only in the drains to fill the traps.  Essential is to have the rig parked on a level surface so all the water finds it's way outside.


The last valve is the one that drains the fresh water tank.  Our fresh water tank is located to the left of the storage compartment.  Referencing the picture just above, the valve for that is located to the left, real close to the outside compartment hatch in a little mouse hole.  The picture does not show it.  It looks like a water jug valve, very cheap white plastic.  For the 2010 model year, it could be located against the back wall because the water tank is located there.  But I really don't know for certain.

The picture you posted does not look like anything in my 2007.  Only the type of valve.  Boy I dislike those valves, so very hard to turn with such a tiny handle, and I have to turn them so many times.  I wish they were ball valves.  Where in your PC did you take that picture?

Concerning water pressure in your PC, when using on-board water, it will run slow.  If on city water, it will flow much more.  If you suspect something is wrong, clean the aerator in the faucet.  An indicator of a clogged aerator is if the bathroom faucet runs so much stronger.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2020, 09:03:06 am by Ron Dittmer »
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donc13

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2020, 10:31:59 am »
On my PC, a 2015 model 2551 (identical to 2552 except about a foot shorter) the fresh water tank is under the passenger side bed.  If you lift (or remove) the mattress, there should be an access panel that lifts out.   Look inside the opening and you should see the white polyethylene fresh water tank to the left of the opening. At the base of the tank, you should see a water line and a valve.  That valve is the freshwater tank drain.  Open it and the water will start to drain out underneath the vehicle right below that valve.

Once the water stops draining, close the valve, put the access panel back in the opening and put the mattress back.

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todd.albin@taact.com

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2020, 12:43:57 pm »
Thank you all so very much for your quick and kind responses....they have been very helpful.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2020, 12:46:36 pm by todd.albin@taact.com »

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2 Frazzled

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2020, 09:46:57 pm »
Am I the only one curious about the Original picture? All our valves are under the kitchen drawers or hidden under the bed. This goes back to Ron's 2007 up past our 2013 and more recent. I don't know of any Phoenix Cruisers with hack sawed openings and those heavy valves. Where in the coach is that opening?
John, Holly, and sometimes Chloe.
Travel Blog: Spiritofthewoods.net

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todd.albin@taact.com

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2020, 11:05:07 pm »
On the passenger side rear storage compartment.....that is why I am so curious about these, the center one drains the fresh water tank.  Important to note that the 3 valves under the kitchen cabinet drawer adjacent to the hot water heater ARE there as well.  I am trying to understand why the kitchen sink pressure is now very low and it isn't the aerator screen either.  I know the RV dealer was unfamiliar with my coach and unsure if they did something wrong.

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dogyard

Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2020, 12:27:34 am »
I have the same setup in my 2014 model 2350, I have difficulty draining fresh water tank without opening the valve (the same middle as in your photo) and then running the pump to get the tank drained. The other 2 valves there are low-point drains for the other plumbing lines used to winterize as well.   Is the kitchen sink pressure low for BOTH hot & cold water?  If it's just the hot water I'd guess you have one of the water heater bypass valves (kitchen cabinet drawer) in the wrong position.
BTW, even though others have a drain valve off the freshwater tank my 2350 does NOT have any drain valves other than the 3 in the storage compartment and by the looks of your photo the same person cut the jagged opening for both of our access panels.........
« Last Edit: March 27, 2020, 12:35:12 am by dogyard »

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todd.albin@taact.com

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2020, 11:05:47 am »
Hi dogyard,

thanks for the reply.  The pressure is low in both hot and cold.  They replaced the hot water heater and I will check position of both valves....this was never a problem prior, just starting occurring last year and always clean the aerator on the faucet.

Yes, that middle valve does drain the fresh water tank quite nicely. The other 2 valves are closed as well and since you say they are drains, then I assume they should remain closed.  The low pressure thing is puzzling but I will check the positions of the valves under the draw.  I assume the center should be closed while the other 2 should be open???  Thanks.

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garmp

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #9 on: March 27, 2020, 12:24:09 pm »
Start over. On the 2100 you need to drain the fresh water tank. Open the large door beneath the sink, there's your fresh water tank. That valve is right by the left side of the tank is the drain. Turn it until it is 90° to the pipe coming out of the tank and it starts to drains. Remember this original position as you have to return the valve to that position to fill.
To the immediate left of that valve are two pipes that run up and down with another connecting the two. On the horizontal pipe connecting the two vertical pipes is the water heater by pass valve. Turn it until the handle is parralell to that pipe, this will open the by pass. In the same area, the two horizontal pipes have valves directly above the horizontal one you just opened. Turn both of these valves until they are perpendicular (90°) to their respective pipes. This will closes the lines.
To drain the water heater you must go outside and remove the plug with 15/16" wrench. (I would suggest NOT using pliers as Earl suggests on the video.) And get wet.
On the 2100 the low water drains are in the bathroom vanity to the far left as you look in. Close to the floor and pretty hard to see. There are two lines and each has a little T handle that you simply, they can be a bit hard to, pull up these lines run parallel to the side of the coach.
At the risk of getting wordy I hope this helps you.
Jack is what we call our PC 2351D, and he has taken us from campers to RV'ers and loving it. We're no longer Team Bob. Just Jack the RV!

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Ron Dittmer

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #10 on: March 27, 2020, 12:43:57 pm »
Hi again Todd,

Here is another idea.  If all else fails to increase water flow to your kitchen sink, try this.

- First fill your water heater and all plumbing with fresh water so no air is in the lines.
- Then close all your other faucets.
- Remove the aerator screen on the end of your problematic kitchen sink.
- Through the use of adapters, hook up a garden hose to it.
- Turn on your house water and open your low-point hot and cold water plumbing drains.
- While water is reverse-flowing, exercise your kitchen faucet lever, on/off, hot/cold.

Hopefully whatever is limiting the flow of water to your kitchen sink will reverse-flow out one of the two low-point drains.  It might be a small piece of plastic that originated from the fresh water tank.  Hopefully it will flow out the bottom of your PC.

Having water throughout the plumbing will encourage the problem piece to travel out one of the two low-point drains, and not into another branch of your plumbing.

Adapters are commonly sold, a common use is for home carpet cleaning machines.  You might have to get creative and make a female-to-female garden hose adapter, but maybe you can find one in a home improvement store.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2020, 12:57:54 pm by Ron Dittmer »
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todd.albin@taact.com

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #11 on: March 27, 2020, 01:00:11 pm »
great idea, I will try that very thing.  thanks so much

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Ron Dittmer

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #12 on: March 27, 2020, 07:39:25 pm »
I am very curious how that works out, so please report back afterwards.  If you could, please setup under the discharge area, a kitchen screen colander like pictured, to capture the culprit.  It would be very interesting to know exactly what caused your slow flow rate.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2020, 07:42:52 pm by Ron Dittmer »
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donc13

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Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #13 on: March 27, 2020, 08:47:35 pm »
Does the flow seem normal when you are hooked up to an outside water supply?   If so, the issue is between the tank and the water pump (or the pump itself).  If the flow is the same either via the pump or when hooked to an external water supply...then Ron's idea may help.

The way my 2015 is plumbed, the water comes out of the pump into a Tee with one side going to the front kitchen sink and water heater, and the other side going to the bathroom sink, shower and external shower if you have one.    The external water input hookup just goes into that same line going to the shower, etc.

Your 2010 year may be plumbed differently since your low point drains are located differently than in my 2015 model year.

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dogyard

Re: Help on my 2010 PC 2352
« Reply #14 on: March 27, 2020, 09:18:19 pm »
Hey Todd, based on your question I did some experiments today when I was dewinterizing my 2350.  Without a doubt the kitchen sink (both cold & hot, with water heater either bypassed or not)  has far less pressure with the pump vs city water hookup.  Hope this helps?  I can tell you it's been good to find another 2350 owner with the "hacksawed access panel"  to the drain valves WITHOUT the tank drain that apparently every other model has.  Thought I was crazy as I spent a few years searching for that non-existent valve I was told to use for draining the freshwater tank.  That middle valve is all there is to get the job done.