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Chassis battery

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ErinS

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Chassis battery
« on: March 25, 2020, 10:41:03 am »
  I have a 2018 2552 PC.  I store it in a garage over the winter.  This winter I have had to jump the chassis battery every time I went to to start it and the generator.  I try to do this several times during winter as long as I can get the garage door open.  I recently took it to an RV repair shop to get the roof seams touched up and to get the water system sanitized.  The shop tells me that the battery is shot (I had them install a new one).  They are surprised given the age of the unit.  They think there is something drawing on the chassis battery, but cannot test it.  I have to take it to a Ford dealership to get this tested.  Has anyone else had similar problems with chassis battery?  How did you resolve it?
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2 Lucky

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Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2020, 10:58:03 am »
A 2018 PC is most likely a 2017 chassis, you can check the Ford build date on the driver door jamb sticker. The battery is likely 3+ years old.  If the battery is often allowed to discharge completely it will greatly reduce the longevity.  All vehicles have some phantom drain on the battery, this is why a chassis battery disconnect is often recommended here. Like this one I use:

https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-disconnect-switch-97853.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products|All+Products|97853&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=*PLA+-+All+Products&utm_content=All+Products&gclid=CjwKCAjwguzzBRBiEiwAgU0FT8VDk-XDWg-gZWV5n6FSfc3glVw9B7G77om2309HURnwZyXKGOcx1BoCLw8QAvD_BwE


Do you know that the white rocker switch next to the steering wheel can be depressed which will allow current from the coach batteries to assist the starter battery rather than jumping it?
« Last Edit: March 25, 2020, 12:44:36 pm by 2 Lucky »
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Ron Dittmer

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Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2020, 11:05:37 am »
My 2007 E350 PC-2350 chassis battery will be dead in 6 to 8 weeks.  It has done that since the day I bought the rig in 2007.  I address the problem by disconnecting the chassis battery during the storage period.  I also used to disconnect the house batteries for the same reason, but after I switched from two 12V conventional batteries, to two 6V AGM batteries, the problem is greatly reduced, so much that I leave the house connected all the time now.  I charge them about every other month.  At charge time, the batteries still read 12.3V which is excellent.  I could go longer, between house battery charges, but don't for the peace of mind.
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Engineerlt

Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2020, 11:30:37 am »
There is a very simple fix to your issue.  I know there are a few others on here that have installed the Trik-L-Start       https://www.amazon.com/AM-Solar-CHGR-TRIK-Trik-L-Start-Maintainer/dp/B07FD49X14     .  If you leave your RV plugged in while in storage it will simply send some voltage/current to the chassis battery from your house batteries that are being charged by your converter.  I've installed it on my 2552 and it keeps my chassis battery topped off as my house batteries are charged from my solar system.

Here is the link to the installation instructions, super easy install, maybe 15-20 minutes.  http://www.lslproducts.net/MTLS_Instructs.pdf

My chassis battery would die without having this installed....
Lance
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keelhauler

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Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2020, 12:20:32 pm »
My Ford Chassis battery is almost 8 years old. I never disconnect  it.
Why ?
Keep it fully charged.
How?
Either do like Engineerlt recommends
OR
disconnect like Ron Dittmer recommends
OR
I recommend changing that little momentary switch to an on-off switch if you have solar power or you are plugged into 120v power. Leave switch on when stored as well as switch by the door(main shutoff)
Then none of your batteries will go dead, there is always some current going to the Ford computer.
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John
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dogyard

Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2020, 01:11:12 pm »
I'm 100% with engineerit and the Trik-L-Start recommendation,  it's completely eliminated my stress of wondering if I'll be able to start or not.  15 minutes of installation for a non-mechanical-kind-of-guy and all is well.
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2 Lucky

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Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2020, 02:20:58 pm »
These all work if you are able to keep it plugged in or on solar. Otherwise, only the battery disconnect will do the trick.
PS you don't need 30 amp service or cord to just keep the batteries charged, just don't run the AC or Microwave.
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Sarz272000

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Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2020, 03:23:58 pm »
I have a Trik-L-Start installed like Lance indicated.  When in longer storage times >1 week I disconnect the negative cable on the chassis battery because I have no power source in storage. What I really like the Trik-L-Start is for camping with electrical.  It keeps the chassis battery charged.  Without it I would have to start the motor or disconnect the negative cable to keep it from discharging. Less to do or remember when camping means having more time for fun!

Ron S
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zolman

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Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #8 on: March 26, 2020, 11:09:03 am »
I also put in a Trik-L-Start. It not only keeps my chassis battery but also my engine battery at the correct charge.

Frankly it is, by far, the best way to solve the problem of keeping your PC batteries charged.
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donc13

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Re: Chassis battery
« Reply #9 on: March 26, 2020, 12:05:01 pm »
I fully agree with 2Lucky, if you are not plugged in over the winter, the ONLY solution is to disconnect the chassis battery negative terminal.   I use a high amperage knife switch
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Battery-Doctor-Knife-Switch-for-Top-Post-Batteries-20138/202931972

I also disconnect the coach battery pair's negative terminal.
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