Clear coat peeling

I have a 2007 2910 PC and we love it. But this year the passenger side of the coach started peeling from the black strip the clear coat. What can i do. I have quotes to repaint the passenger side of camper for $7000. I have attatched some photos.

I have a 2007 2910 PC and we love it. But this year the passenger side of the coach started peeling from the black strip the clear coat. What can i do. I have quotes to repaint the passenger side of camper for $7000. I have attatched some photos.

2007 2350 here. Clear coat is also peeling off my wheelwell trim,not too much one can do. I see no pics, so you probably found how much fun it is trying to attach pics here. 

Are you looking for DIY solutions? Depending on the spread of the lifting/peeling, you may be able to effect a repair yourself that will look a bit better.

Try uploading pictures again.

I'm closely monitoring this thread.  I have some significant clear coat pealing issues on the top of the front above the windshield. It has mostly all pealed off but looking raggy on the edges.My tire cover as well as a couple of hard edges are also starting to flake.  I have "a guy" who is clamoring to show me his paint expertise, but I'm nervous.

I'm closely monitoring this thread.  I have some significant clear coat pealing issues on the top of the front above the windshield. It has mostly all pealed off but looking raggy on the edges.My tire cover as well as a couple of hard edges are also starting to flake.  I have "a guy" who is clamoring to show me his paint expertise, but I'm nervous.

Are you describing the failure of the thin vinyl film called Diamond Shield?  That is not the painted clear coat which would be underneath it.  Theoretically all you need to do is remove the Diamond Shield and you should look good as new up front.  The spare tire cover seems to be a clear coat problem.

My clearcoat issue is not on the hood. It is the fiberglass above the windshield mostly from the roof line down about 2 feet.

I know this is a couple years ago but thought I would state a couple things and ask a question.  The clear coat on the tire cover is peeling.   It is also peeling on the back "shelf".   The front cabover is also peeling.  Went to check oil yesterday-the hood is starting to peel.  I will state that I DO NOT have it covered.  Living in the desert wreaks havoc with anything outside for more than 10 minutes. 
1.  What have the previous people in this post done?
2.  Anyone have their unit painted in Mexico?

Seems everyone responding this this thread has one thing in common - the vintage.  Having purchased my PC as used, I have no insight as to its history and how it was stored by the prior owner.  Other than to reason, because it had very low mileage and titled in California, it sat in the sun for those years of inactivity.
When I purchased it, the driver's side Clear Coat had considerable blistering along its length.  The hood and the top two feet of the frontal area of the lobe above the windshield were completely shed of Clear Coat and the paint was faded, cracked, and eroded.
Seeing that, I attempted some remedial efforts with no restorative affect.  And, because of the lockdown was in effect, covered parking was unavailable for months as I waited on the reservation list.  Sitting outside, during that time made the problem worse.   When I returned four months later to relocate the rig, the margins of the Clear Coat blisters had expanded. 
I beveled the margins of the blistered Clear Coa blisters with a polishing buffer and placed the rig under covered parking.  I am told the edges are no longer advancing.
The truck hood and area above the "Phoenix Cruiser" logo up to the roof are really faded.  I might have those two sections repainted.  They look really bad.
Now that the Clear Coat blisters are no longer expanding, the underlying coach paint is satisfactorily revived with wax and "elbow grease".



 

Thanks for your response.  I am going to attempt to slow down the rear shelf and tire cover.   I have painted a few cars in my life but will not tackle the hood or the 2 ft above the logo on the front cap. 

I know what you mean.  The area above the cab is inaccessible by ordinary methods.    I was thwarted while trying do something that would otherwise be ordinary and simple.  Replacement of cracked running light lenses!

Principles of basic geometry prevent any ladder from being placed into a stable and unsupported position allowing access to the work area.  Approaching from the roof surface doesn't work.  I considered that as an alternative and quickly realized it as unfeasible.  Approaching from the roof entails exerting a long reach over the front that conjures up vivid images of impending peril.  Some contortions would require having ankles fastened to restraints.  All leading to unexplainable consequences that my wife is very unappreciative of and unsympathetic to.

Sky buckets with hydraulic lifts and remote controls allowing maneuverability have an interesting appeal.  Probably very expensive.  Another alternative, the one I used, is to rent a riser of scaffolding and planking.  Modern scaffolding is available that can be erected to include cantilevered platforms.  With such an option, the scaffolding base spans the hood across the front. The cantilever extends two feet.   Almost imperative, the span bridges the slope of the windshield.  That places you closer to the work area and eliminates having to lean out from the scaffolding.

The clearance lights can be accessed without the cantilever being installed.  The area above the lights approaching the roof line, where I want to address the faded paint, recedes even further and will require the offset.

Great info.  I fell off a ladder a few years and my wife freaks out every time I get 2 inches off the ground.  I'm stubborn though as I hate to pay people to mess something up that I can mess up myself.  Anyway, I will attempt minor repair first and then maybe tackle the area above the windshield and lastly the hood.  I don't want my RV to turn into a homeless looking vehicle.

Has anyone considered something along the lines of this to work on their front B+ cap?  Maybe this exact one isn't wide enough but you get the idea.
https://www.menards.com/main/paint/ladders-scaffolding/scaffolding/keller-reg-kpro-trade-6-steel-rolling-scaffold-1000-lb-capacity/ksrs-72/p-1564986709539-c-7985.htm?tid=-529444419077165393&ipos=4

Without the wheels, that is what I used as the upright.  The scaffolding's stance is wide enough to be erected outside the width of the front end. Peripheral to the wheel wells. 

The windshield and rearward slope of the front combine to make the clearance lights within reach.  The area above the clearance lights is unreachable without the cantilever attachment. 

See attachment below:

It appears that the scaffold Ron is speaking of is not wide enough to straddle the hood.  How was it used?  Pics of my beautiful front cap and hood.

Scaffold stance must vary among vendors.  The stand I used was wide enough to allow the braces to be located outside the wheel wells.  The width of the erected scaffold allowed me to traverse the front of the cab. 
Look around your area.  Usually, it isn't difficult to find multiple suppliers.

Scaffolding is really the only way to work.  Stepladder, or other access from the side is too much of a stretch and ineffective

As for the Clearcoat, the problem pictured in your post is identical to that I have.  Althoough, mine is more deteriorated.  Looks like a piece of junk from the front.  In addition to the peeling up front, I am problemed with the black swirls along the vehicle sides.  My solution has been to let it peel.  Once the clear coat is gone, I use polishing wax and feather the edge onto the adjacent color.  So far, the peeoling has not afftected the base color.