Automatic Entry Step

replace the switch with Cole Hersee switch part #M-490-BX requires a larger hole

So what make and model step does PC use?  Seems to be a problem on Lippert "Kiwkee" steps.

So what make and model step does PC use?  Seems to be a problem on Lippert "Kiwkee" steps.

It's a Lippert step.  The issue is with the door switch.  The normal door switch is sealed and magnetic.  PC door frames are steel (the vast majority of other RV doors are aluminum) , so the magnetic switch doesn't work.

While PC has tried to seal the switch from the outside, it's not always effective.

So what make and model step does PC use?  Seems to be a problem on Lippert "Kiwkee" steps.

Kwikee steps are pretty reliable. We have several in our fleet, and they last 10+ years without problem.

The switches that signal them, however... even the 'hall effect' ones seem to go bad over time.

I replaced mine with the Cole Hersee switch, due to the advice on this forum.  It works a lot better, but it was a PITA to replace.  There are TWO walls you have to drill through to enlarge the hole.  The outer one needs to be larger than the one in the door frame where it's mounted, just to get the switch through to where you need to mount it -- tricky problem.  You'll need a large uni-bit and some study time.  It would be very easy to accidentally enlarge the mounting hole too much.

If I'd known, I'd have probably just ordered the factory replacement.  It lasted 11 years.  Good enough.

I am going through the process of replacing the corroded and inoperable door frame mounted 3/4" push button switch. Trying for a direct replacement, I found the Kwikee Products telephone number listed in their 2007 brochure is no longer valid. 

Reading the forum, I learned some of the clever replacements either don't work or require modification to the doorframe.  Checking alternative sources, I see the exact switch is available thru Del City.  I ordered one and will report on its suitability after it arrives and I get it installed

You can replace with any sealed pushbutton switch, which is what I did in my 2006 PC. It never failed.

However in my 2012 PC, I do this once a month when I using my unit.
Twist the barrel in both directions until it seems to twist easier. This works,

I took apart the switch in my 2006 and found out that it is just a sliding contactor in a steel barrel and they corrode, so what you are doing when twisting is realyl just cleaning up the corrosion.

Always works for me, so I'm not going to the trouble to replace, Try it.

Because of the steel doorframe, it cannot be a magnetic switch.

I’ve replaced switch’s, stood on my head, bit my tongue and the damn thing still would eventually act up and start going in and out and in and out like a broken record.  I’d had enough. I found the power line by the driver side kick panel and installed a 20 amp rated toggle switch. Yes I have to throw the switch when we get to our camp ground and switch it off when we get ready to travel to keep it n but it never cycles as I drive down the road.

As any fool would agree and is the inevitable result, beyond any denial, that stated in the product manual: "serious damage could occur while driving with the stair steps protruding".  In addition to tearing off the stair frame, sufficient force could destroy the mounting bracket which includes the bottom of the door frame, floor, outside shell, and everything rearward. Probably, a more expensive risk is the liability for potential damage to other vehicles should the erratic behavior allow the step to be deployed in high speed, congested traffic. 

Until reading the recent replies, I had no idea the problem was so common.  Illuminating the issue makes it clear: the problem is long-lived and widespread.  Learning the factory installed type switch is prone to repetitive problems, I am going to explore the recently included suggestions as an alternative.  Although, it is my experience the stair control needs to be energized to remain retracted.  For that reason, I don't think installing a switch interrupting power from the cab would work.

While on the issue of the entry step function I have another issue.  There is a related toggle switch near the door position that is associated with "overriding" the step operation.  According to the manual, the step can be left deployed when parked with the ignition off by using the switch.  The deployment feature is a functional option that allows the steps to  remain in position until the vehicle ignition is returned to the "ON" position, at .which time they are automatically retracted

While the option clearly wouldn't lock the steps in a stored position while driving, I would appreciate learning what idiosyncrasy is known to cause the current foible.  Because I would like to have the option to leave the step deployed when parked.  Regardless of the door being opened or closed.

Although, it is my experience the stair control needs to be energized to remain retracted. 

Check that. With the truck (starter) battery disconnected the step does not extend when the door is opened, which is kind of a PITA for entering or exiting during storage. The work- around is to open the door then turn off the manual override switch before disconnecting the battery.

I’ve had a HD toggle switch installed at the fuse by the kick panel for almost a year. When we get ready to roll and start the engine the steps retract. I simply reach down and hit the toggle switch and they are locked in the retracted position.   Now the down side is I must remember to flip it back when we stop or no steps come out and it’s a long drop without those steps. I leave a reminder snap on the door so no one walks out and gets hurt.

This works for us, it drove me nuts having the steps go back and forth.


When parked the door switch works as intended and the steps stay out or retracts as designed thru the switch by the entry.

I need to experiment with the new suggestions and confirm the door / step operation performs properly and according to the features described in the manual.  I appreciate the directions offered by Forum members kind enough to respond. And, with their suggestions, less reluctant to proceed.

I want to investigate the directions offered by members in order to gain confidence in being able to control the steps as advertised in the manual.  The alternative of unbolting them and traveling without is otherwise a suitable alternative.  Until I consult with my commanding officer, that is.

The runaway step problem developed without warning.  And, according to Murphy's Law - at the worst possible time.  Rapid cycling as I was driving through city traffic at interstate speeds found me unable to pull over immediately and I was concerned.  I imagined another car being impaled unmercifully by the rapidly plunging step.

I am traveling with an ohm/voltmeter and was able to determine the pushbutton switch could be bypassed.  Removing the defective switch and taping the two electrical leads keeps step closed  I have a replacement switch waiting at my next layover destination.  I might fill the button cavity on the new switch with dielectric grease. 

I hope the fault doesn't return.  Reading the experience of others, I get the impression the problem is often repeated.

Taildragger

Yes, it is a common occurance on the Phoenix because of the steel doorframe.  Because of that, you cannot use the recommended magnet switch.  Dielectric grease more than likely won't work because it's not the contacts getting dirty.  I bought a marine switch because the in-out while driving only occurred in rain and only sometimes.  I have NOT yet installed it, because rotating the button every now and then keeps it from pulling that in-out thing while driving (for ME, your mileage may vary).

As to causing an accident, if you look at it when at a campground, you will see that it doesn't extend far enough.  It only extends an inch or two beyond the awning frame.  To hit another vehicle, they would hit your awning frame first!  Curbs... Yes, when you are parked, tires right next to curb, yea... You'll hit the curb.

One of these days I will get a roundtoit and replace the switch.  Because it is annoying.

Joseph's answer is a good fix.  The step will NOT extend (cannot extend) when there is no power.  A rack and pinon worm drive on the motor keeps it in place.

Don

Anyone who goes the route of a toggle to cut power please use something to remind yourself that you have cut the power.  I’d be sick if someone fell out of their rig. I bought some of those snap kids bracelets at hobby lobby and marked them . I use one on the door, the rest are marked and I snap them on the steering wheel with reminders for the antenna etc. I know you can buy them pre marked at any RV place for about $20. Hobby lobby was half a dozen if I recall for $3.