Window Glaze

So its been going great finding and stopping all the leaks/water damage in the PC.  My only issue left is the window glaze on the entry window glass.  Is this something that can be found at a local store?  Not sure if I'm looking incorrectly or it has to be ordered by someone who carries supplies for Hehr's.  Also, do you happen to know a kit for doing all the windows?  Thanks again! ☺️

-Sarah Beth

Old glazing strip is tricky to measure with calipers. Pellandent.com will send you a kit of samples for $4 with different sizes.

               
Or call Carol Simms at Phoenix USA
(574)266-2020

Thank you, CalCruiser!  I did see that website but was hoping for cheaper since I probably need to do all of them.  Lot less expensive than water damage though, I will look into a sample kit and quick fix to hold the one until I get the parts. 

Carol usually leaves at 2:00.

Get back truckin’  on to where those chilly winds don’t blow !!

Thank you, CalCruiser!  I did see that website but was hoping for cheaper since I probably need to do all of them.  Lot less expensive than water damage though, I will look into a sample kit and quick fix to hold the one until I get the parts.

The window ''glazing' on the RV windows is a trim item, not a seal. The pulling away at the corners is unsightly, but doesn't let water in. At least not yet on my 2006...

Found another source for seals also,  http://www.parkin-acc.com/page53.html

I am also in line for the glazing. Going to paint the frames and dividers 'trim black' and use black glazing to update the look.

Volkemon, thank you for the additional site.  I think the main problem is a seal, the hubs saw a YouTube video and said it was the glaze.  Attaching pic of the problem..

We're down to the last two days we can work on it, have to go to Oklahoma for a job for a few months.  So we're just trying to get it sealed as much as possible.  We luckily got the major water damage taken care of and will try to store it indoors until we get back.  Maybe an RV store in town will have something temporary seal wise until we get back.

Thanks again, definitely think black is the way to go when redoing it.   That's going to look great!

I have the same issue, I am 99% sure they are a trim item and not a sealing item.  I can direct a stream of water at my windows and no leak, even with gaping holes at the corners.

I know the fixed window in the entrance door uses a black sealant (butyl strip?) that seals the window to the frame, the trim does not keep water out of the coach. The sliders....I would like to take a closer look before being 100%. 

Are your windows leaking now? That might answer the question quickly. 

Sorry, I was further inspecting the problem and documenting.  It's leaking but it could've possibly come from the door latches that we've repaired since the last storm.  We're about to get hit with another one in a few hours, that will tell me more.  As you can see regardless it definitely needs to be replaced and that butyl sealant isn't holding up either.

It could've been the door latches but the water is going down the door inside, can see where the wallpaper is buckling at the bottom.  It comes out thru the screw and puddles at the bottom of the door there.  Obviously not the worse water damage we've encountered but trying to figure it out.  I'm sure this storm will let us know, lol.  😜

Yeah, I am looking at the storm to hit us tomorrow night. Rain is free and handy, but a hose can definitely pinpoint water leaks faster.. just remember to start low, and work your way up to the leak.    Soaking it from the roof down will quickly show a leak, but may make it difficult to pinpoint, especially with multiple leaks.

The dealer I bought the coach from were convinced the upper marker lights were leaking, and had even replaced one. They were leak free...it was the windshield area. They had a shower head on a pole that they would start soaking at the top for inspection.....every time. 

Yep in the panhandle I just get hit a little sooner than you.  I lived near the Space Coast for six months before coming here.  Now we're headed to Oklahoma on Saturday, building more of a nest egg to finish the RV and hit the road full-time.  😍

You're correct on the hose, I just am not 100% my seals are cured completely.  I've read that to be 100% it can be up to a month.  So I thought no need to test it to that degree at this time.  Rain will show anything major that needs to be done, hopefully.  Will save up and do all the windows next time when I have ordered all the right parts.  Worse case scenario I'll just caulk it tomorrow if it still leaking with the storm tonight.

Our marker light did leak on that side but replaced all of them with new Led ones.  Not as cool as yours, saw that thread after the fact.  😂.

CORRECTION!!!

I sorta had a memory of a RED tube... but knew it was 5200...?!? So i dug out the receipt. It was 5200 FAST CURE. Mrs V got it for the posted $18.99 a tube when she noticed the exceptional value. We were nearing the end of the windshield repair, and things were hectic.

So, I still would be comfortable using a hose on the regular after 48 hrs. I probably could have gotten it off the gun if it had been 'regular' 5200, which I normally use.

We now return to the thread...

, I just am not 100% my seals are cured completely.  I've read that to be 100% it can be up to a month.  So I thought no need to test it to that degree at this time.

I read you used 3M 5200 GREAT stuff.

  I get mine at West Marine. Couple bucks more, but always a fresh manufacture date. I used it between the cap and top of the windshield.

The '100% Cure' refers to the condition where the sealant has completely hardened to the center of the thickest recommended application, and under the waterline. Exposed to air, I would direct a pressure spray at it in 48 hrs with no hesitation. Stuff is incredible.

I had a tube plunger fail while using it in my power caulk gun. My normal MO for this is to extend the rod, allow the sealant to cure to a skin, then peel off/ wire brush etc.



Not 5200. Overnight it firmed an armor that I am not gonna spend a week chipping off. I just tried to scrape that smear by the trigger off - HE** No. Its parts for the new one now. 

We're hose okay, at least for the time being on the main entry window.  We do have a problem with the window over my husband's bed, it's not leaking but gathering some water inside in the window frame.  I think maybe that's because of the seal/glazing that goes down the center of slider windows?!  Not positive so we're tarping that section until we can do the windows.  Leaving at 5am tomorrow for Oklahoma... Feel good about the progress we made.

You're right, that 5200 is a beast but as you saw that's what we needed.  Thanks for the input, sure that will help also people in the future that need a good fast curing solution too.  We also bought it in two smaller tube forms that we loved working with... We just did it by hand for the smaller detail work.  It also says that the product should be used within 24 hours for best results once opened.  So for people that don't need a whole caulk gun amount I suggest the tubes as well.

Sorry for the quick response, it has been a real whirlwind the last few days.  I really appreciate all the help and support. ☺️

I would never use 5200/4200 for anything that flexes or ever needs to be removed.  For example 5200 is commonly used by boat builders for aiding in the fastening of deck to hulls.  It will harden and become very difficult to remove.  A product I used on my sailboat is SCS2000 in areas where there is constant flexing, but you want to keep the water out.  The SCS2000 is a GE product designed as window glazing on high rise buildings where flexing is a natural occurrence.

Thank you, Sailors35.  I had read in several forums that 5200 was great to use, why I went with it.  That's great information and I will look into SCS2000 for my future uses since I already used 5200. 

I would never use 5200/4200 for anything that flexes or ever needs to be removed.  For example 5200 is commonly used by boat builders for aiding in the fastening of deck to hulls. It will harden and become very difficult to remove.

Not sure if you are using the word "harden" where you might mean "cure".   5200 does not get 'hard'.  The reason it is used to adhere deck to hulls is because it DOES stay flexible after cure, and will not 'shed' the decking on flexing like a hard curing adhesive would.

-Tough and flexible polyurethane polymer forms strong bonds
-Capable of retaining strong bonds during vibration, swelling, shrinking or shock

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength, moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding of wood, gelcoat and fiberglass. It cures to form a firm, rubbery, waterproof seal on joints and boat hardware, above and below the waterline.

Source - https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant-5200/?N=5002385+3293241623&rt=rud

As far as putting it on anything that flexes or I would want to remove...  Covered the flexing already, and sure, if it is an access hatch or other commonly removed item, I would use a much less aggressive adhesive.

The stuff is about impossible to remove, as my post above reflects. 

I have used the SCS2000, but for the applications that it calls for I find the clear 'Silicone2' works as well. Both are silicone based, not polyurethane like the 5200. I fond that the silicone based doesnt hold up as well against salt water down here, your mileage may vary.