New flooring

Has anyone installed waterproof laminate plank flooring?  The manufacturers will not warranty the floors in an rv, but we were told to leave 1/4 inch all around for expansion, and we would be fine.  The flooring is beautiful but wondering if it would hold up and about more noise when traveling?  Thank you for your thoughts!

We want to replace the carpet in our 2350 at some point and we’re thinking about this product too. I’m wondering if I will also have to adjust the slide out for the change in thickness of the flooring. Hopefully someone has already done something similar and can share their experience.

Volkemon, where are you?

BTW: It is great to see on the forum, an increase of owners with older PCs.  I felt so alone for so long with so much discussion covering current-day technical jargon like satellite tracking antennas, solar technology, inverters & converters, on-board surge protection, etc. etc. etc. with their later-day PCs either recently purchased or consideration for ordering.    Don't misunderstand me.  I am glad there is so much discussion, techie or otherwise.  It's only that I found myself disconnected....but that is changing.  It started with Volkemon catching my attention with all his renovations on his rescued 2006 2350.

Back to laminate flooring.....It is a "floating floor" system.  It is not nailed or glued down.  It simply rests on the floor.  In a regular house, you first lay down a 1/8" foam underlayment, don't know the recommendation for a motor home.  I always wondered if such a floating floor ever gets airborne when hitting a bad bump.  Does it come back down with a "crash"?

A prefinished real wood floor gets nailed down, but I wonder what the drawbacks are to that option.

I also wonder if there is a notable weight-increase with laminate and wood.  I think not, but do wonder if it's more than I realize.

Interesting point about the floating floor.  I hadn’t thought about that!

I thought I read online somewhere that PC installed the vinyl flooring in the entire coach, including where the carpet is. If that’s the case can the carpet just be removed to expose the vinyl underneath?

Interesting point about the floating floor.  I hadn’t thought about that!

I thought I read online somewhere that PC installed the vinyl flooring in the entire coach, including where the carpet is. If that’s the case can the carpet just be removed to expose the vinyl underneath?

It is a hit or miss on if the vinyl covers all the way to the driver compartment.  I think they normally fall short by a foot or two.  Even if full-covering, you would not like the condition of the flooring under the carpet because it will be riddled with holes from carpet staples.

I consider the vinyl flooring to be an excellent water barrier (minus the front) in-case there was a plumbing failure.  I would not be too quick to rip it up, instead cover over it.

I was glad to have the full vinyl flooring when I had a surprise of 1/2 gallon of water rush out the water heater when replacing it's 110V heating element.  Even though the tank is drained, to my surprise, it still holds 1/2 gallon of water, Atwood later told me it is left in as a safeguard in case the tank is drained, accidentally left on 110V operations, and RV is plugged into 110V.  I asked about freezing.  He said it is designed for it.  So be sure to siphon out that last 1/2 gallon of water before pulling the 110V heating element.

Yes, I wondered if the vinyl would likely not be in good enough condition to leave exposed. For us, it’s a future project due to the ones already in the queue. So there’s plenty of time for research. We’re always thinking about upgrades that will improve the RV as well as give it an updated look. I wish I had the woodworking skills that you have, Ron.

That’s on my wish list too.

Volkemon made an instructive thread about installing a wood look floor in a 2350.

For what it’s worth, I read about the floor lifting up in a new Winnebago Fuse with the windows open at highway speeds

Put laminate flooring in previous 2010 2350.  LOT of staples from carpet area so vinyl floor does have a lot of holes.  Floating laminate flooring I used had backing so didn't have to use anything under it.  Left required expansion space along walls, covered it with quarter round.   Old carpet and pad was similar thickness as laminate so no problem with slideout.  In slideout area, I installed laminate with slide out close t
o slide rollers.  Then used scrap laminate piece in front of rollers, brought slideout in over scrap piece, stopping on new floor plank then completed flooring under slideout.  Used trim piece at front end and around door step.  Had experience installing laminate flooring in home so more confidante to do it in PC.  It's not difficult, but requires time and patience.  Result is worth doing it.

We replaced the flooring (carpet) in our old Pace Arrow with a tile look vinyl flooring that had preset glue on the flanges that overlapped and glued the tiles together.  We had it probably 8 years after this project and never regretted it.  We were concerned with weight, being waterproof, matching and ease of application since we aren't real handy with these things.  After pulling up the carpet we pulled up at least 250,000 staples (at least it seemed like that many) then started applying the tile.  We also replaced the carpet on the slide and in the cockpit area.  It took us about 3 days total.  It wasn't difficult, and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

Has anyone installed waterproof laminate plank flooring?  The manufacturers will not warranty the floors in an rv, but we were told to leave 1/4 inch all around for expansion, and we would be fine.  The flooring is beautiful but wondering if it would hold up and about more noise when traveling?  Thank you for your thoughts!

Our pre-owned 2551 had cheap laminate flooring installed over the vinyl. Looks fine except for where the slide rollers have worn through the very thin but nice looking finish.  I doubt real wood can be found thin enough to allow for the slide to operate. I've yet to see a floating laminate that doesn't feel and sound cheap IMHO when walking on it due to the foam underlay.  We ended up with several area rugs to soften the feel and protect the flooring.

Buy a high quality flooring if you go that way. I wonder if the new tile wood-look flooring would work, may not tolerate the slide rollers pressure...I'd go that way if so when we replace our less-than-stellar current job.

PS  Our factory vinyl does not extend under the beds, I wonder why?  No moisture protection where it is really needed. I thought most rvs had a continuous flooring on the whole platform.

I'm not sure what year it changed but by 2013 there are no slide rollers. I know Phoenix has switched at least one more time to another slide system but still no rollers. Just FYI when reading experiences for new flooring and what may or may not fit.

I have used the wood laminate flooring in a house last year. I don't think it is a good idea for an rv. Any water that gets in will make it swell and ripple. Vinyl laminate is the only way to go, it's water proof and easy to cut. You don't need a vapor barrier, it can be put directly over wood and each piece interlocks with the other. I will be doing this in my soon to pick up used 2006 2551. Scott

I have used the wood laminate flooring in a house last year. I don't think it is a good idea for an rv. Any water that gets in will make it swell and ripple. Vinyl laminate is the only way to go, it's water proof and easy to cut. You don't need a vapor barrier, it can be put directly over wood and each piece interlocks with the other. I will be doing this in my soon to pick up used 2006 2551. Scott

Ditto!  I have the vinyl in mine, only way to go. VERY happy with it so far, over a year now, just about bulletproof.  I am talking "65QT yeti cooler scrubbing dirt into the floor leaving no marks" bulletproof. Impressive.

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3016.   My thread.  Sorry about the late reply, busy weekend. Got the awning off!