Re-winterize

We plan on going down to Louisiana late February/early March to escape the cold of the midwest for a couple of weeks. Problem is the forecast calls for a couple of nights in the lower 30's and possible upper 20's upon our return home. Really don't want to re-winterize just to undo it all in a month or so for our next trip. I know better safe than sorry, but geesh! Seems like a waste of money and time. (I'm old, lazy & cheap).
Oh well, guess I godda. What'd think?

If day time temps are 40 degrees or higher, night time temps can get in the mid to low 20's without a problem. It has to be below freezing for close to 24 hrs before damage occurs unless it gets down into the teens.

   Lynn

Weather forecasts​ that far out are never too accurate.  I would just be sure that when you return you have some RV antifreeze ready if it does get that cold you can put some in after you drain the system.  If you don't​ need it, you can use it next winter.
Gary

Garmp, that is a ponderable for sure.  I have faced that situation more than once and have tried it both ways - to rewinterize or not rewinterize.    However, it is usually mid March when we first venture out and I just watch the weather forecast for the following week.   On one occasion I had to get out there on a cold day and winterize.   However, that was not with a Phoenix Cruiser.   The way the pipes are laid out in my PC, I don't think I would worry much about a few days in the mid or upper 30s and a few nights in the 20s ASSUMING I had it at my house and kept it plugged in with the heat strips on the AC on to keep it warm.   I would also check it regularly.   If you have it parked at your home you can check it easily and if it is not at home to monitor....................I probably would just rewinterize and not worry about it at 2 AM in the morning.

By the way, one of those inexpensive little wireless indoor outdoor electronic thermometers can come in handy to stay cozy inside your home and check the temp in your RV in the driveway.

I didn't think so either. I am now in Florida waiting for new gears from Baxter manufacturing to repair the electric dump valves.

If camping overnight with temps below freezing, what comes to-mind is....

- stay in a place with 110V shore power
- make sure all the outside storage doors are completely latched
- make sure the waste tank valves are closed
- remove the 3" drain cap to drain-off fluids accumulated that might damage the macerator
- drain the macerator hose
- reinstall the 3" drain cap
- make sure the on-board battery converter is on to support the 12V waste tank heaters via 110V
- turn on the waste tank heaters
- place a quilted blanket across the two front seats and tuck it well along the sides and seal to the floor to block the worst of the cold air infiltrating through the front cab area
- crank up the heat inside the rig, using one or two 110V space heaters to supplement the furnace, especially in cooler interior areas
- if the outside temps drop exceptionally low, I would also open all the lower cabinet doors and lowest drawers to get warmer air to the plumbing

So I assume this would also apply after returning home to freezing temps.  Just use more 110V heaters instead of the furnace, making sure you don't over-load your 110V circuits.

Before we headed south Nov. 21 we had highs in the 30's for several days and one night down to 9. I had full water in the PC. Holding tanks empty, did not run furnace, used 750 watt ceramic heater pointed towards bathroom. Opened door under kitchen sink and pointed a 250 watt heater in there to keep water lines under the shower warm. Had water heater on. The water heater on the 2400 is beside the fresh water tank. That keeps water tank and lines warm. My water pump is under my bathroom sink, I have a drop cord with two 75 watt bulbs, that keeps that compartment at 75 degrees, it also protects the 4 way valve. All the plumbing on the 2400 is in the rear so that's where I focus the heat. If you're on the road and it gets below freezing for extended periods, empty you're water tanks, keep the gray valve open and let drain on the ground when using. Use rv antifreeze to flush toilet, just keep the inside warm and everything will be fine.

  Lynn

I meant to say empty your holding tanks, not water tanks.

   Lynn

If we are not actively living in the rig and it might freeze, we winterize. Twice we've stored her temporarily to visit the grandchild. Twice the temps should have been moderate where we left her. Twice they had unusually cold weather with a hard freeze while we were away. AND twice we were fully winterized. Pink stuff is relatively cheap and it only takes a few minutes. Why risk it?

When winter camping or danger of freezing we just don't use the water system. Take a few 5 gallon water containers and half-gallon jugs for ease of pouring, a Brita in the fridge, and use basins rather than the sink drains and dump water outside ( biodegradable soap and solids strained out, of course.) Put pink stuff in the black tank, and your waste there actually creates warmth.
Also see the recent post on blowing out your system.

Dougn

Just one more thought... what about the lines to the holding tank rinse sprayers...any worries there? Do they drain automatically?  Hmmm
Dougn