Best Small Dhingy Cars

If you got the manual transmission your should be good and never mind.  If you got the automatic please search "Jeep death wobble".

http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f12/jeep-cherokee-death-wobble-123288.html

How does the transmission affect the 'death wobble' ?

Death wobble is a rapid oscillation in your steering components and results in your steering wheel moving very quickly from side to side. It has earned this name because it feels like your Wrangler is literally falling apart and that letting go of the steering wheel can lead to a very bad day. When this occurs it becomes extremely difficult to control your Wrangler and the only way to get it to stop is by slowing down; sometimes it is necessary to come to a complete stop.

There was an amusing statement in the thread you linked..

Sounds like they had to come up with a "wobble mitigation algorithm" as a direct response to an "engineering oooops algorithm"

   

link - http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f12/jeep-cherokee-death-wobble-123288-3.html#post1375719

The description of a death wobble is accurate. I’ve never experienced it in a car but have on two diff brands of motorcycles.  Hands to light on the bars and if the wobble started it was violent. If you applied brakes you were going down. I had it on a Harley and on a Honda gold wing. If a vehicle does it I can believe it feels as if it’s coming apart. 

How does the transmission affect the 'death wobble' ?

I may have misspoke on that part, not sure.  And it might be a model year thing as well with the manual transmission having a different steering system.  Or maybe I remembered wrong.  I know you had to have the "Active Drive II" transmission or the manual transmission.  "Active Drive I" does not work.

The death wobble in the Jeep Cherokee is caused by the front wheels starting to wobble (when towed) because the power steering is electric and when off does not keep the wheels stiff enough.  The fix has been to install a wiring harness, switch and additional fuse to power the steering when towing.  The problem is that this is a battery drain and unless you have a charge wire to your battery from the tow vehicle the toad battery will quickly drain.

Bottom line: the Jeep Cherokee (with some transmissions) can be towed 4 down if the proper modifications are made.  If they are not installed then you risk a dangerous situation.

Quote

How does the transmission affect the 'death wobble' ?

I may have misspoke on that part, not sure.  And it might be a model year thing as well with the manual transmission having a different steering system.  Or maybe I remembered wrong.  I know you had to have the "Active Drive II" transmission or the manual transmission.  "Active Drive I" does not work.

The death wobble in the Jeep Cherokee is caused by the front wheels starting to wobble (when towed) because the power steering is electric and when off does not keep the wheels stiff enough.  The fix has been to install a wiring harness, switch and additional fuse to power the steering when towing.  The problem is that this is a battery drain and unless you have a charge wire to your battery from the tow vehicle the toad battery will quickly drain.

Bottom line: the Jeep Cherokee (with some transmissions) can be towed 4 down if the proper modifications are made.  If they are not installed then you risk a dangerous situation.

jatrax is on the money with the above information.

After I decided to get out in front of my upcoming PC delivery by acquiring a 4-down towable vehicle, I spent considerable time researching options--primarily focused on Jeeps.  Bottom line is that to tow 4-down, you need to be able to disconnect the driveline(s) from the powertrain.  With a manual transmission of course, the neutral shift position does the trick.  With Jeep automatics (at least later models), you can accomplish that IF you have a 4-wheel drive transfer case that incorporates a neutral.  As jatrax says, the Active Drive I 4WD system does NOT incorporate a neutral position, but the Active Drive II 4WD system DOES incorporate a neutral position.  In the later model Cherokees, at least, the Active Drive I is standard on some 4WD models, with the Active Drive II system as optional on some of the models.  The Trailhawks incorporate the Active Drive II system as standard.  If one is interested in towing a Cherokee, be sure it is 4WD with Active Drive II.

In the research, I also ran across the "death wobble" issue.  Again, jatrax is exactly right on the cause and the fix.  It has nothing to do with the transmission type, but surfaced as an issue when Jeep moved from hydraulic to electric power steering (EPS).  As he says, there is a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) describing the problem and the fix--which is to install an add-on wiring harness which maintains power to the EPS, adding resistance to the steering.  I hadn't seen prices on cost of the  harness or installation--the $1700 dealer estimate sounds pretty steep (it's a pretty simple harness, but I don't know exactly how it ties in to the existing EPS wiring).  The good news is that Jeep incorporated a fix in the 2019 models, so the add-on wiring harness isn't needed--that's one reason I decided to go with a new Trailhawk instead of a '17 or '18.  With the EPS fix and the Active Drive II, it is ready to tow as is.  My research had focused on Jeep Cherokee models, but I believe the general guidelines apply to the later model Grand Cherokees, Wranglers, etc.  The unit will either need a manual transmission, or if an automatic, will need to be 4WD that has a transfer case with a neutral position.  If the unit has electric power steering, models earlier than 2019 should have the TSB for the wiring harness applied.

My exposure to true 4x4 automatics is very limited.  Please help me to understand today's vehicles with gear transfer cases.

Our 2006 Jeep Liberty has a mechanically operated gear transfer case.  We put the automatic transmission in park and the gear transfer case in neutral by mechanically moving a lever into the neutral position.  Doing so allows all 4 wheels to spin freely while being towed, and it prevents the automatic transmission from spinning which protects it.

The days of a manually operated shift lever for the gear transfer case have gone away (or so I think) replaced with electronic push buttons.  Most push-button types today are not approved for towing because either there is no neutral button to select, or if it has a neutral button, the electronics won't keep the gear transfer case in neutral once the vehicle has been turned off.

Do I understand this correctly?

How does a vehicle like a current-day Jeep Wrangler 4x4 with a gear transfer case work for 4-wheel-down towing?  Does it have an electronically activated push-button gear transfer case?  Or does it have a mechanical lever system like our 2006 Liberty?

I found this picture on the web, a 2006 Liberty like ours.  Note the gear transfer case lever to the left of the gear shifter.

Jeep all the way.  I have a 2014 Cherokee Trailhawk and it pulls like a dream.  In any Cherokee models you  must have the upgrade four wheel drive system to tow four down.  Jeep odometers do not record towed miles like many other manufacturers.

Ron,

I understand your question addresses a "gear transfer case" model, and I won't attempt to answer your specific question about the Wrangler, since I did not focus on that model once I decided on a Cherokee (I'm sure some of the Wrangler owners will that that answer).  I will just briefly confirm that the Cherokees with the Active Drive II systems have an electronic shifted neutral that is activated by a small button on the console by the shifter.  The tiny button has an "N" logo, and is depressed in a sequence with the engine off to disengage the transfer case from the drive line.  A small indicator light by the button lights to confirm that neutral is achieved.  The sequence is reversed to re-engage. 

Ron,

I understand your question addresses a "gear transfer case" model, and I won't attempt to answer your specific question about the Wrangler, since I did not focus on that model once I decided on a Cherokee (I'm sure some of the Wrangler owners will that that answer).  I will just briefly confirm that the Cherokees with the Active Drive II systems have an electronic shifted neutral that is activated by a small button on the console by the shifter.  The tiny button has an "N" logo, and is depressed in a sequence with the engine off to disengage the transfer case from the drive line.  A small indicator light by the button lights to confirm that neutral is achieved.  The sequence is reversed to re-engage.

Interesting!

That seems very simple.  I assume it will stay in neutral with the engine off and everything shut down.  If that be the case, if you hit that little button, I assume there would be a risk of the vehicle rolling away on you like would be the case with our 2006 Liberty with the gear transfer case in neutral.  It would need to be that way in order to tow it.

Well, it does stay in neutral with the engine off once properly activated, but Jeep has implemented a couple of things to prevent accidental roll-off.  First the neutral button can't be accidentally engaged--it's a really tiny button, and is inset.  It's one of those deals that you use an instrument like a ball point pen tip to press.  Secondly, I mentioned a sequence to engage it, which the manual lays out.  That involves a requirement to set the (electric) parking brake prior to activation, among other actions.  It's obvious that Jeep focused on engineering the process to effectively safeguard against accidental vehicle movement.

Well, it does stay in neutral with the engine off once properly activated, but Jeep has implemented a couple of things to prevent accidental roll-off.  First the neutral button can't be accidentally engaged--it's a really tiny button, and is inset.  It's one of those deals that you use an instrument like a ball point pen tip to press.  Secondly, I mentioned a sequence to engage it, which the manual lays out.  That involves a requirement to set the (electric) parking brake prior to activation, among other actions.  It's obvious that Jeep focused on engineering the process to effectively safeguard against accidental vehicle movement.

Ah!  That all makes perfect sense.

Thanks Mikeh for the clear explanation!  And I am delighted that Jeep fixed this issue with the 2019 models.  I believe the death wobble started with the 2016 model year and despite the dealer's sales manager telling me it was 'fixed' (even though he had never heard of it) it was an issue on my 2017 and I assume the 2018 model year. 

The dealer insisted I pay $1,700 to have it installed after the sale.  I complained loudly and my salesman backed me up because I had stated repeatedly the only reason I was buying the Jeep was to tow.  And the sales manager had insisted there was 'no problem'.  We settled on $200.  Two months later I got a notice form a collection agency asking for the remaining $1,500.  After several letters back and forth they let it go.  But I will not be buying anything from that dealer again.

Do you still have the in dash switch to turn on the power steering computer or is this now automatic?

On my model year the sequence to prepare for 4 down towing is:
-Transmission in PARK
-Engine off
-Connect to tow bar
-Door must be closed or parking brake will turn on
-Ignition to ON but do not start
-Press and hold brake pedal
-Shift into NEUTRAL
-Hold down transfer unit neutral button for 4 seconds
-Neutral button should blink then turn solid red
-Start the engine
-Shift transmission into REVERSE
-Release brake pedal and wait 5 seconds
-Shift transmission into NEUTRAL
-Shift transmission into PARK
-Turn engine OFF
-Remove key
-Double check that parking brake is OFF
-Wait until dash/nav/gps displays all turn off
-Turn console switch to ON
-Insert fuse in fuse holder in engine compartment
-Connect the tow power cable
-Check tow bar is locked properly
-Check car brake and turn lights for function
-Test power steering, wheel should turn freely
-Double check that parking brake is OFF

And ROn, yes once the transfer case is in neutral the vehicle is free to roll away unless you have the wheels chocked or the parking brake on.  I do both!

Jeeps aside, the OP started the discussion by asking about the best SMALL dingy cars.  Personally, I wouldn't consider a 4000 lb vehicle small.  My Ford Ranger only weighs 3600 lbs, but I don't think anyone except an F-150 owner would call it a "small vehicle".  It certainly doesn't tow like a small vehicle.

Here's the list I considered over the past two years that I've been looking.  Now that I bought a Smart, I wish I'd looked harder for that Mini Cooper roadster I really wanted.  But you have to be careful with Mini's.  The early ones had a problem with timing chain failure that wasn't solved until 2012.  The Fiat is a better version of the "Smart", for a lot more money (and it's a Fiat).  I REALLY wanted a '97 Chevy Tracker 4WD, but couldn't find a good one. The Toyota Yaris is probably the "best" of the lot, but very boring.  I just couldn't make myself buy one.  Maybe if they'd made a ragtop. 

Smart  (2008 to 2013) 1,808 to 1,896 lbs, 106.1" -- Towable as is without speed or distance restrictions.
Suzuki sidekick and variants (1989-2004) 2,291 to 2,751 lbs, 143.7" to 151.8" - 4WD STD towable, 2WD not (according to manual), but people have been doing it successfully for 20 years.
Suzuki X-90 (1995-1997) 2,326 to 2,469, 146.1" 12 ft -- STD is towable as is without restrictions. This was a roadster built on the Sidekick chassis.  Even 4WD was available.
Suzuki Samurai (1986-1995) 2,059 lbs, 135" 11 ft. -- STD is towable as is without restrictions.
Mini Cooper (2001 present) 2,315 lbs, 142.8" 12 ft -- STD is towable as is without restrictions.
Hyundai Accent 2dr (2005-2011) 2,467-2,533 lbs, 159.3" 13 ft -- STD is towable as is up to 65mph
Mazda Miata (1990 present) 2,293 lbs, 155.4" 13 ft -- Not towable according to Mazda and REMCO but many people do (STD only).
Honda Del Sol (1992-1997) 2,295–2,535 lb, 157.6" 13 ft  -- Honda says no but Suzuki says STD is
Honda S2000 (1999–2009)  2,809 lbs, 162.2" 14 ft -- Not towable
Toyota MR2 (1999-2007) 2195 lbs, 153 in 13' -- STD towable as is without restrictions
Toyota Paseo (1991-1999) 2025 to 2160 lbs, 164" 14' -- STD towable as is without restrictions
Toyota Yaris hatchback (2007-present) 2,290 to 2,335 lbs, 151" 13' -- STD towable w/o restrictions
Scion IQ (2008–2016) 1,896 lb, 120.1" 10ft  -- Not towable
Scion xB (2003-2006) 2395lbs, 155.3" 13 ft. -- STD towable to 55mph and 200 miles
Scion tC (2004-2010) 2905lbs, 174" 15 ft. -- STD towable to 55mph and 200 miles
Scion xD (2007-2014) 2,665 lb, 154.7" 13ft (same as 4d Yaris)
Fiat 500 (2007–present) 1,907–2,161 lb, 139.6 in 12ft -- STD towable without restrictions
Kia Soul 2,714 to 2,837 lbs, 163"  -- Kia says no.  Lots of people do it anyway.
Honda Fit (2001-present) 2390 lbs, 151.4 in, 13 ft. -- STD towable up to 65mph
Honda Civic Coupe (2005-2011)  2,586 lbs, 175", 15 ft. -- STD towable as is without restrictions
Chevrolet Aveo (and Sonic) (2002-present) 2,546, 154" 13 ft -- STD towable as is without restrictions
Chevrolet Spark (Daiwoo) (2007-present) 2,246 to 2,312 lbs, 145 in, 12'-- STD towable as is without restrictions

On my model year the sequence to prepare for 4 down towing is...

Holy cow! we'd never get all that right. On our standard shift Subaru Forester AWD (around 3500 lbs), the procedure is:

- Put car in neutral
- Turn key one click to accessory
            - Turn off display screen using buttons on steering wheel (optional but saves battery)
            - Hook up tow bar and electric cables between coach and car (any toad needs this)
- Release emergency brake
            - flip switch to activate auxiliary braking (optional)

Basically three steps required to ready the car: neutral, accessory, emergency brake - done!
John and I can hook up, test lights, and roll in five minutes.

That said, We don't like the way they wired our toad lights so we added little magnetic mouse ear lights which add a step: flip the switch on the extra lights to on.

Holy cow! we'd never get all that right.

Hence my somewhat lukewarm enthusiasm for towing my Jeep. 

That process is a long way from what I was told to expect.  I have a paper checklist and follow it exactly every time.  Then my wife double checks it.  And then she stands beside the Jeep while I move forward to make sure everything looks good and the wheels are turning freely.

We have gotten it wrong a couple of times.  Once I drug the Jeep about 5' in gravel with DW yelling "Stop, Stop" because the parking brake is electric and automatic.  So if you are not careful and open the door before the dash lights go out it will turn on the parking brake when you open the door.

Blue blaze.  You’ve nailed it, finding a light weight tow isn’t easy and 4,000 lbs isn’t light and considering we tend to load all are extras in it there’s that as well. Even towing a smart car you really notice the difference once you unhook. All at once your PC reacts like a SUV.   Amazes me how hard the V10 must work in a tall class A 36 + foot long and towing a 4500 jeep.