Making a good coach better

I am a new owner of a 2010 2551S and I must say I am impressed with the workmanship and the coach in general.  I have owned several Monaco motor homes in the past and the PC does stack up much better compared to them.  With that said,  there are several issues that I have fixed on the PC as I am forever attempting to hunt down rattles and squeaks that drive me crazy as well as small  engineering issues.  Living in a cold climate (NH) I am always looking for those draft sources and did find several....there is no insulation on top of the rfrig.... it is a straight shot from the outside vent to the 1/2" interior panel that is above the refrig.  Checked with Norcold and they had no problem as long as there is room for venting and of course there is so I have placed several inches of fiberglass insulation on top of the refrig and the interior noise level in that area has been reduced considerably as well as the draftiness.  There is no insulation under the carpet in the cab and there is no way one can put it down since the carpet is glued down...it would have been nice if PC had atleast utilized some 1/8" adhesive foam that would knock some of the cab noise down for sure, I installed such insulation in my  Sprinter based coach and the noise level dropped by I will bet 28%.  I was able to insulate under the door kick plates with adhesive foam and it does take care of some road noise coming right up thru from the outside.  I had many rattles in the kitchen area and discovered that the LP copper lines were rubing together and making alot of noise, I seperated them with make shift rubber bands and bent them some and really silenced everything.  The PVC drain pipe from the kitchen sink is all so not strapped down well and vibrates on the wood wall behind the draws  and floor as it heads to the back of the coach.  I sprayed foam insulation stradegically (completly hidden of course) under and around the pipe and  the vibrations are now gone.  Had to add the winter antifreeze valve ...do not understand why PC did not install at the factory...all of $14.00 retail.  I found the shower enclosure to be somewhat cheap feeling so I sprayed foam insulation from the top and bottom of each of the channels and plugged the bottom holes with nice black pop in plugs that you can not even see....the door now shuts with a great solid feel and many rattles are now gone.  I noticed significnat noise around the Kiwee step box....like all of my other motor homes the manafacturer always fails to insulate the cold hard steel that is all there is between you and the outside weather and noise....I again used 1/8  adhesive foam insulation to cover the three sides of the box and that modification really reduces  road noise. Will keep you posted of other work I do if it is of any interest to folks?   Thanks

Oh, we're always interested in fixes and tinkerings    I'm probably biased, but I've run several large and small forums over the years, and I think this is by far the most informative and pleasant group on the 'net. 

Good mods!  I have just installed additional weatherstripping on the driver side door to reduce the very loud wind noise rushing through there.  I used 3M EDPM 08651.  Checkers has it. 

ragoodsp, Welcome and keep them coming. I wonder how far I am away from you (Maryland to NH) and if you would be interested in looking over my PC someday. In the mean time I guess I will just have to follow along here. 

Since you are touching on the subject of insulating the slide over the fridge, is the slide made like the rest of the RV, with 1.5-2" insulated walls on the 5 sides of the open box?

Ron D.: The slide is contructed and insulated the same as the main walls...r-values are the same.  While I like the room the slide gives me I am with you (you chose no slide) in regards to rattles and leaks that slides can have and when i winter camp up here in NH I always place 3" foam pipe insulation around the slide seams when it is extended otherwise it is just the rubber seals and the outside, very drafty...I justmust remember to remove the foam before retracting the room!

PJ:  My daughter lives in Baltimore with her husband so I am in MD fairly often.  While I like to take my coach the parking issue is always a real pain and I worry that someone will damage it so usually drive the car or fly.  With no traffic I can make it from door to door in just under 8 hours.  Thanks

I always place 3" foam pipe insulation around the slide seams when it is extended otherwise it is just the rubber seals and the outside, very drafty...I justmust remember to remove the foam before retracting the room

Maybe you have describing this already.....If I had a slide-out, I'd consider adhearing skinny versions of those swimming noodles, adheared completely around the backside of the fancy wooden framing of the slide-out.  The slide-out would stop a little short of full-extension, but it would have an extremely good seal from noises, bugs, wind, etc.

Is that what you were describing?

Ron D.:That is exactly what I am describing.  In the cold weather slides out are real heat drains.

There is no rule saying that just because you have a slideout that you have to extend it.  If the weather is real bad, we just leave it in. It is then just like not having a slideout.