brakes

Is the PC built with standard or heavy duty brakes on the E450?

Thanks
Mario

Heavy Duty is a marketing term that applies to both the E350 and E450 brakes as both are designed for adequate braking loaded to their respective GVWR, 12,500 or 14,500 lbs.  There are probably several small differences which allow the E450 to stop as designed at the higher weight.

Randall, Thanks for the reply.

I, might have worded my question wrong, by using "heavy duty".  The E450 comes with "Standard" brake system or "Severe" duty. So, my question is: Are the brakes on our P.C.'s, standard or severe?

ThANKS AGAIN

Mario

P.S. Why I ask, is my wife will be towing a horse trailer. Canyon & heavy  traffic driving

Why I ask, is my wife will be towing a horse trailer. Canyon & heavy  traffic driving

Does the horse trailer have brakes?  If so perhaps all you need is a brake controller in RV.

Yes, the trailer has 4 wheel braking system and the coach has a brake controller. I just don't want to go to the Ford dealership and  say that I want to install the severe brake system, when the unit already is built out with the severe brake set-up. The Tow-Haul works excellent, justmore safety

Mario,

Rest easy.  You have very good brakes on your E450 PC.  I never heard anyone upgrading their E450 brakes.  I even wonder if brake upgrades are available.

As others mentioned, just be sure to have trailer brakes that work right.

Now if you asked about upgrading your suspension, that is entirely different.  A lot of people including myself have had suspension upgrades done.

Hey Ron.

 Enlighten me as to why the up-grade on the suspension system.  Just did a 600 mile jaunt and had Strong and at times Very Strong side wind   

buffeting. I thought the coach handled exceptionally well, as I watched our friends in a 32' Class  A, doing the walk, so to speak.

Interested to also know your thoughts now that the up grade has been done...would you add/change anything.

Have a Great holiday weekend

Mario

Hi Mario,

It seems, the shorter the PC, the greater the need for suspension improvements.  You have a 2910 and claim you don't have any handling issues so maybe you don't need them.  But for short wheel base/long rear overhang units like the 2100 and 2350, the suspension upgrades are much appreciated.....most especially on the 2007 and older E350 model years because they don't have a Ford standard rear stabilizer bar like other E-series have.

Here are the listed upgrades most commonly utilized by owners of E350s and E450s, regardless of the brand of motor home.

1) Heavy Duty Rear Stabilizer Bar (thicker & stronger with polymer bushings, Helwig & Roadmaster are popular brands)
2) Heavy Duty Front Stabilizer Bar (thicker & stronger with polymer bushings, Helwig & Roadmaster are popular brands)
3) Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers (Bilstein and Koni-FSD are most recommended)
4) Heavy Duty Front Steering Stabilizer (Safe-T-Plus Is most popular)
5) Rear Trac Bar (Henderson is most popular)

I suggest you read THIS and see if it applies to your PC.

Our 2007 2350 had serious handling issues when we bought it new 10 years ago.  With my previous experience with the motor home it replaced, I wasn't going to wait, so I took our PC to our trusted RV/Bus/Ambulance suspension shop.  They suggested everything I listed along with a proper wheel alignment.  It cost me a lot, $3,900 ten years ago but well worth it.  No regrets at all.  I really enjoy driving our PC.  And when conditions are horrid, I can still enjoy a cup of coffee and a bite to eat.  I can drive so much longer due to less fatigue.  My stops have been limited to potty breaks and/or gas...not because I am all worn out.

Mario, Also you can reduce the cost by a couple thousand doing it yourself. I installed Koni shocks , (bilsteins would be much less) new sway bars and the safe t plus for  $1500  in a day. There's nothing all that difficult.

Mario, Also you can reduce the cost by a couple thousand doing it yourself. I installed Koni shocks , (bilsteins would be much less) new sway bars and the safe t plus for  $1500  in a day. There's nothing all that difficult.

I agree with Joseph.  Had I known back in 2007 what I know today, I would have installed most or all of the upgrades myself.

I understand there is an issue to address when installing both a heavy duty rear stabilizer bar and rear trac bar together.  They might share a common mounting point or interfere with each other in some fashion.  I don't recall the specifics.

I also understand the driver front shock absorber is a challenge.  You turn the shock instead of the nut up top because there is no room to turn the wrench.

I would consider having a shop install everything if the rig is older and rusty underneath requiring the heating of bolts to loosen them, the ones that hold the original parts on the chassis.  A Bolt Buster is a wonderful tool for heating bolts safely but I don't have easy access to one.

For my 2 cents on my 2910T 2015 year I added Roadmaster front and rear sway bars. Also the steering stabilizer. What a difference in driving. The factory sent me a spacer
and u bolts for the left side between the springs and axel to level coach. I also added 17.5 wheels and load range G Michelin tires for the over loaded tires on the rear axel. The load range G gives you 12,980 pounds at 85 psi dual wheels. This is above 10,500 rated rear Ford axel. The 17.5 wheels and tires  added 1 MPH to the speed odometer.  jas
 

Ron,  I heard that about the front right shock but couldn't figure out why. I assume its because most don't know that just under the carpet behind the brake peddle is a large rubber boot. Remove that boot and you have direct access to the top of the shock. That being said I'm a bit lazy and didn't want to take the time to turn that nut a gazillion time on that long stud. I used my sawsall and in a matter of seconds the shock was removed. The access point under that carpet made it a breeze to install the new shock.

Ron,  I heard that about the front right shock but couldn't figure out why. I assume its because most don't know that just under the carpet behind the brake peddle is a large rubber boot. Remove that boot and you have direct access to the top of the shock. That being said I'm a bit lazy and didn't want to take the time to turn that nut a gazillion time on that long stud. I used my sawsall and in a matter of seconds the shock was removed. The access point under that carpet made it a breeze to install the new shock.

So there is a rubber boot to access the nut from above?  Oh that is  .  So much talk for so many years about how difficult it is to get off and there is an easy solution.  Thanks for sharing that.

Ron, Yes but just on the drivers side. On the pass side its not needed.

Ron & Joseph

Thanks for taking the time to respond......very informative. Will try the rock & roll test.

Joseph, the DIY, is a little( a lot) out of my league, but good to know.

Thanks gentleman

Mario