Higher lights

I'd like to add LED Stop/Signal/Run lights higher in the rear of our PC.
In order to do so, I'll have to run 3 wires per side between the rear cap and inner bulkhead up to about mid-way of the rear window's height.
Does anybody know if there is a clear path to do that?

Thanks in advance.

I don't have the answer to your question, but what would give you the answer you seek is a picture of the backside of a rear cap.  Maybe the factory could provide you a picture and some advise.  blockages might vary pending model.  Assuming you have a clean vertical channel in the rear cap, I imagine you'd have to treat the project like at home working in between walls.  You'd have to drill a hole where you want the light, fish a wire from there down to the floor where you'd be drilling another hole to get to the underside of the coach where the tail lights are.

First call Kermit Fisher there at the factory.  He is not a lover of email.  Best to discuss over the phone.

Thanks Ron.

I did this to my Alpine just to provide more awareness that there was something in front of some pretty stupid drivers. How in heck can you not see a wall 8-1/2 feet wide and 13 feet high? It was even worse when towing.

The PC, having really low mounted lights that cannot be seen when towing will only compound the issue. Regardless of all the additional lights I have on the Edge.

The lights I'd like to install are super bright 1" wide by 15" deep by 1-1/2" high surface mount LED type.

I'll eventually call Kermit.

Thanks again.

I know what you mean.

On my old RV, that thing went so slow that everyone passed us like we were standing still.  I used red&white reflective tape across the rear bumper on that one because we did so much night driving in those days.  But we were not towing anything either so the rear bumper was exposed well.  It lit up so nicely in back from headlights of others.  I know because I confirmed it myself once being in a following vehicle at night.

Maybe reflective tape in tasteful places???  It would be much easier to implement and easy to undo if you change your mind at a later date.

That is definitely a possibility.
I went under it this morning and, being a bit anal, am not entirely comfortable with the way the hitch is secured to the frame. The tubing used sure is substantial and the welds look fine but I'd be more comfortable if it was cross-drilled in 2 places per side and had grade 8 bolts through it and the frame.

It wasn't us but I've seen what happens when welds break and a TOAD and hitch takes off across oncoming traffic. It ain't pretty.
Which is why I had my safety cables and breakaway switch secured to the frame rather than just the hitch.

I'm not going to make any immediate changes simply because I've found the PC easy enough to drive under any condition we've experienced to date and a TOAD may not be necessary.

Sure wasn't that way with the Alpine. That thing needed a ball-field to turn around in.

So far, the PC is a joy to own and operate.