Electric step

Okay, another electric step question, again.  The step goes in when the door closes regardless of which way the switch is set.  Once before, someone said to spin the plunger switch on the door jam, and that did fix the problem.  Not this time.  The step worked fine in March but now once again, it’s in & out, in & out, in & out…   

Just a suggestion, check the ground wires at the step controller.  The system is obviously "thinking" the ignition is on.   If nothing else, loisen and then tighten up those ground wires at the frame.

My wife reminded me of something I had forgotten (I'm sure it had nothing to do with age  ).  Last February, I used the toggle switch on the dashboard (connecting the coach batteries to the truck battery) to try to start the engine.  Apparently that caused the same problem.  Although I hadn't used the switch since, I flipped a few times anyway - that solved the problem.  Just a heads-up.

I'd bet good money it's the switch. The contacts are not sealed against the elements and corrode. Remove the switch, pry the little tabs back from the rear of the switch and remove the sliding part (phenolic bit with copper contacts), sand the contacts clean and reassemble. Voila, the switch will work properly again (until you have to do it again). How do I know this? After almost 30 years of having various motorhomes with the same crappy switches, you learn a few things.

I finally got fed up with this and replaced the switch with a simple toggle switch (use the same leads but remove the bolt so it doesn't smash the new switch the 1st time you close the door).


That in & out stuff ain't all it's cracked up to be.

Hi everyone, I have the same problem with the step. I have a 2350 year 2019.  With the voltmeter I have taken the fuses under the dash out and checked each one without the fuse.  One of the 5V plugs related to the step does not show 12V with ignition on or off.  The other 5V plug does show 12V.  So I am trying to find out where trace the power source to this 5V fuse plug.  As this is likely my problem.  Any help appreciated please.
thank you
Rob

There are two wires to the step red:12v power all the time. yellow: 12v when either ignition or white switch, left of steering, is on.
When yellow is 12v when door is closed step will go in, even with toggle switch by the door on.

Here is the wiring...

Don, That's an older version, I updated it.
https://keelhauler.org/RV/2552ElectricalSystem.jpg

Don, That's an older version, I updated it.
https://keelhauler.org/RV/2552ElectricalSystem.jpg

Never saw that one, Thanks!   Just learned something too, the dash switch pulls the step in, never knew that.  And mine was built In Dec 2014 as their RV show 2015 model.

Don

I finally got fed up with this and replaced the switch with a simple toggle switch (use the same leads but remove the bolt so it doesn't smash the new switch the 1st time you close the door).


That in & out stuff ain't all it's cracked up to be.

I know its an old post, but I laughed and had to quote. I did the same thing, but mounted the switch on the wall, so the 'throw' of the switch matches the step motion.

If I extend the switch, then use the inside 'hold' switch, it will stay out regardless of toggle switch position. Last thing I do before going is switch it closed. It has NEVER opened or closed except by my command.    And I have not been hit in the shins by the &^%$ step again when opening the door. 

I tried bypassing the switch also and no luck.. the only thing I can find is the that 3rd 5amp fuse holder is never getting 12V to send to the switch.  The other 2 fuse holders are showing 12 volt.   It is impossible to trace why that 3rd 5amp fuse holder does not have power.  Very tough to figure this out.  I added a photo.   Also, to recap, the step works, in and out.  it just wont stay open due to the switch at the door know longer working,   weird thing is it would sometimes work again during rain, then stop again.. I checked the grounds I am aware of but now that I found the 3rd fuse holder never having 12V or any power I am thinking that is source problem. Thanks everyone.

I presume you have checked the switch by the door for power or ground?

Have you checked the manuals and repair/troubleshooting/wiring manuals here:
https://support.lci1.com/kwikee-steps

Hi Don, thank you for your reply.  Yes I have completed the troubleshooting guides and when testing yellow wire with volt meter at the step / vehicle power harness, there is never any voltage on yellow.  The guide says should have 12v there.  I took the door switch off and reviewed the 2 connectors, took them off and tried bypassing switch and no change. There is also no voltage at that switch at all.. which continues to lead me to that fuse holder under the dash with no power.  Thanks again.

Hi Don, thank you for your reply.  Yes I have completed the troubleshooting guides and when testing yellow wire with volt meter at the step / vehicle power harness, there is never any voltage on yellow.  The guide says should have 12v there.  I took the door switch off and reviewed the 2 connectors, took them off and tried bypassing switch and no change. There is also no voltage at that switch at all.. which continues to lead me to that fuse holder under the dash with no power.  Thanks again.

You are using a voltmeter. Multimeter maybe?     So using the continuity test, and making a LONG lead extension you can verify that the fuse under the dash is the source for the yellow door wires that are lacking.

Should that be so, now you know which side of the fuse holder goes to the load. Put one lead into the other side (supply) and you can do a probe around the top contacts on the fuses in the fuse box(es?) and maybe find a poor contact or bad fuse. 

If you a get nowhere with that, then a signal tracer MIGHT help. put the hot into the supply side or the fuse holder under dash, and follow the beeps..

https://www.harborfreight.com/cable-tracker-94181.html   


Useful tool. Even tracks copper pipes in drywall.

This is a 2019 coach? I have an antique (2006) so I expect nothing from the factory. But I would hope that a 2 YO coach has some sort of warranty.     At least there is a hope that the guys that built it are still there and you can ask where that underdash fuse sources power. 

I have a 2007 PC that I purchased as "used".  The dealer explained the switch mounted on the lower dash near the driver's door was intended for times when the engine battery was discharged.  According to him, the switch interconnects the battery systems. And, the truck could be started with power from the "house" should the situation occur.  On my PC , the switch is spring loaded and requires constant pressure. Don't know that it works.  Never tried it with the ignition on..

The inter relationship between the step operation and the dash switch being discussed here was never explained in 2007 Owner's Manual.  I wonder if the function varies by model year. 

I like the alternative wiring solutions being proposed for the door step in this forum.  Having read about and actually experienced the door step's erratic behavior, I have experimented with some of  the suggested solutions.  An  override switch that is factory  mounted on the wall near the entry door being one suggestion.  I have found that  switch changes nothing about the door operation.  On/Off, Ignition On/Off, Ignition key In Place/Removed. Nothing, nor combinations of positions, affects the door step's operation. 

I wouldn't hesitate to replace the failure prone push button switch in the door frame with a toggle to eliminate the erratic behavior, if it weren't for the loss of the initial step deployment.  Where does the manual switch being suggested get mounted to allow it being accessible from ground level or inside the passenger compartment?