Trik-L-Start installation

While waiting for our 2552 I've been thinking about the Trik-L-Start. We had one on our former Winnebago View and it worked like a charm to keep the chassis battery charged when plugged in to shore power. Our PC will have a solar charger so I think a Trik-L-Start will be a good idea there too. Has anyone installed one on a PC? If so, do you have any helpful hints, or even pictures?

Call the factory as they may be able to take care of it for you.  They install lots of aftermarket gadgetry upon request from their customers while the rig is being built.

I did ask the factory if they could install one on a used 2552 but they said no. I'm sure it's easy enough to do myself, but we haven't picked up the rig and I can't look at it to visualize the process. Just trying to get a head start.

to keep the chassis battery charged when plugged in to shore power.

Believe me, this simple solution works fine. I only have to turn on the switch for a day about once every few weeks.

Replace or have Phoenix replace the little momentary on switch that is on left side of your steering wheel with an on-off switch. My 2006 2551 had this.
Phoenix went to a momentary switch for some reason,

Contrary to what people believe this switch is not to start your RV, the wires from the relay it activates are too small. But it will trickle charge your battery. Phoenix built in a safety feature. Ask Kermit. When you turn on your ignition switch to start the relay is deactivacted so you CANNOT pull too much current through the relay wiring.

I have been doing it this way with 2 cruisers for 9 years,

You hit sensitive topic for me. Like you I used Battery Minder on my Winnebago View with great success.  The engine battery was over 7 years old when we traded and still charging around 95%.

I of course used it on the PC for a while but had to stop last summer because of endless failures to start.  The battery clamps were not making good contact.  The terminals were pitted, groved and out of round so the surface area was reduced to the extent high current could not be carried. 

The thing that is different from the Sprinter is that Ford does not use lead clamps on lead terminals. Instead they use plated copper.  The plating wore off and apparently the galvanic action of copper against lead caused the pitting.  Before this became apparent I put in a new battery.  I was absolutely stunned to find it also began to not start. It became pitted almost immediately while just sitting beside the house with the Battery Minder attached.  Because no high current was involved and because there is a high frequency desulfation component superimposed on the charging current, I speculate that this could be why the loss of plating to expose bare copper. 

I contacted the Battery Minder tech people expressing concern that the desulfation feature might be part of the problem.  They recommended replacing the plated copper clamps clamps with ordinary lead clamps.  This turns out to be extraordinarily difficult and my inept effort could only made to work by attaching an extra wire and clamp to the positive terminal.  A laughable kluge that works.

As it stands now, I will only attach the Battery Minder clamps in direct contact with the lead battery terminals after I remove the Ford clamps for storage.