A New Banging Sound After Year #6 - In The B+ Cap Area

Ron, In your picture your screws appear to be flat head bolts. Are they what you used (and how) or are they just representative of the screws? Great post!

good post ron,,
questions
    I looked at the pic you have unfinished cab, can visualize  where the cabinets above pass/driver are and how the screws help...  did the bottom of the cabinets have a lining or were they bare?

On your oven rattle if it comes back don't forget to look at where I replaced part of the inside mounting boards  with some padding on my replacement project. 

I have already put on my to do list the palm test on the cap haha... already mentioned I have small leak on driver side when driving,, fingers crossed  but if a problem maybe the screws and will help tighten it down

good job
sparky

Ron, In your picture your screws appear to be flat head bolts. Are they what you used (and how) or are they just representative of the screws? Great post!

I used the screws pictured.  I suppose they are small bolts.  You can spin nuts on them.  I call them bolts when the screw has a hex head.

I looked at the pic you have unfinished cab, can visualize  where the cabinets above pass/driver are and how the screws help...  did the bottom of the cabinets have a lining or were they bare?

On your oven rattle if it comes back don't forget to look at where I replaced part of the inside mounting boards  with some padding on my replacement project.

sparky

My cabinets are finished inside.  A year or so after we bought our PC, I added rubber shelf liner to the insides for noise and protection, but some prior abrasion occurred, especially in the other cabinet.  I am ashamed to take a picture of that one.  I was thinking of trying a little cherry stain there.

I thought of your idea with my microwave rattle, but didn't have to go there after tightening the six front facing perimeter screws.  If it quickly returns, I'll be applying your padding idea.  Thanks for that tip.

I always wondered how PC-USA attached the cabinets inside the B+ cap area.  I still don't know how it was done.  My 4 per side screws (bolts ) seem to have achored them down much better.  I only wished the cabinet floor was thicker wood.  I think it's just 1/4" finished plywood so there is still some flexing action.  Just not nearly as much..

That's great, Ron. Another helpful for you..................at my pleasure.

Thanks Bob

Ron,

How did you know where the roof sheet metal was? Is it cut to be close to the front of the cabinet?

Bob

bob
   Look at the pic on page 1, I think you can pretty well ballpark where the door post is in alignment with the cap... that pic Ron showed us really helps... would bet that all the vans are cut pretty close to the same no matter what model
sparky

Ron,

How did you know where the roof sheet metal was? Is it cut to be close to the front of the cabinet?

Bob

Good question Bob.  It was just a guess on my part.  That is why I picked a dimension of 3" and drilled a pilot hole, placed a 2" finish nail down it to make sure metal roof material was there.  Maybe I could have gotton by with 2" from the cabinet opening, but I wanted to be sure I hit metal every time, and wasn't drilling holes near a metal edge.  I wanted to get into the "beef" of the metal roof for better anchoring.

Quote from: bobander on September 28, 2013, 06:31:02 pm

Ron,

How did you know where the roof sheet metal was? Is it cut to be close to the front of the cabinet?

Bob

Good question Bob.  It was just a guess on my part.  That is why I picked a dimension of 3" and drilled a pilot hole, placed a 2" finish nail down it to make sure metal roof material was there.  Maybe I could have gotton by with 2" from the cabinet opening, but I wanted to be sure I hit metal every time, and wasn't drilling holes near a metal edge.  I wanted to get into the "beef" of the metal roof for better anchoring.

Sounds like a good approach, I will go with 3" if and when my PC starts banging.